Perm hair. Curl for perm: review of manufacturers and perm procedure What is needed for perm

How to add volume to your hair? What can you do to preserve it for a long time and not waste precious time in the morning on warming up the curling iron and tedious styling? There is only one answer to these questions - perm.

What is hair perm?

Chemistry is the artificial transformation of straight and smooth hair into curly hair. The effect lasts from several weeks to several months, depending on the technique used.

Reference! The very first perm was carried out by the inventor Karl Nessler back in 1906, and his wife acted as a test subject. .

Over the many years of its existence, perm has undergone many changes and modernizations. This is not at all what our grandmothers did, and certainly not what Karl Nessler did with his wife’s hair.

The procedure has become more gentle on the hair, and some types of long-term perm even have a therapeutic effect, filling the curls with moisture and nutrients.

The curling technique has remained unchanged, which is based on the master’s use of a special chemical composition – a fixative. It is used to process strands wound on special curlers so that they repeat their shape and become spiral-shaped.

Indications and contraindications

Let's look at who perm is suitable for and for whom it is extremely contraindicated:

Indications

• Thin hair– thin and straight hair looks lifeless due to lack of volume.
• Too rough facial features– soft curls can smooth out the look, making it more romantic and feminine.
• Constantly busy and lack of time for styling— with curling, you can simply comb your hair with a fine-toothed comb or add texture to it using a styling product, without wasting time on a curling iron.

Contraindications

• Coloring done less than two weeks before the procedure will put a strong load on the follicle and hair shaft, which can cause the structure to deteriorate irreparably.
• Pregnancy and lactation– despite the fact that there have been no medical studies proving the negative impact of hair chemicals on the health of the expectant mother and child, doctors recommend refraining from the procedure for this period. Acrid and pungent odors can trigger an attack of toxicosis.
• Taking antibiotics or other “heavy” medications. During this period, the hair may not receive enough nutrients; it is not worth loading it even more.
• Fever and increased intracranial pressure– additional heating of the head can seriously worsen your well-being.
• Coloring with henna or basma– vegetable dye heavily clogs the hair cuticle, making it less susceptible to any influence.
• Weak and thinning hair– this is a completely different case than just naturally thin hair shafts. Hair worn out by frequent dyeing, bleaching and improper care may not withstand perming.

Important! If your hair needs restoration, give preference to bio-perm.

Advantages and disadvantages

The benefits of perm include:

• Resistance to adverse weather conditions– whether it’s moisture, snow or wind, the styling will not lose its shape; moreover, in humid conditions, curls become even more noticeable.
• Volume– the hairstyle becomes fluffy and springy.
• Removes oiliness from roots due to the drying effect of the components.
• Durability– you can forget about daily styling for a period of several weeks to several months.

The disadvantages of the procedure are the following:

• Some formulations can severely damage the hair structure.
• After perm, curls need intensive nutrition and restoration.
• Severely dry hair should be cut off.
• For some time you need to stop coloring.
• It may not suit thick and coarse curls.
• A large list of contraindications.

Types by chemical composition and execution technology

There are several types of perm:

• Acidic- so called due to the fixative used based on thioglycolic acid, which has a rather gentle effect on the hair, but at the same time fixes curls well. The styling result lasts for about a month. The method is not suitable for curling thinning hair or for those with sensitive scalp.
  
• Amino acid- one of the types of therapeutic hair styling, which includes nourishing amino acids and proteins. After the procedure, the curls look as if the curly structure is their natural state. Alas, this result lasts only 2-6 weeks, and then the hair straightens. It will be useless for coarse and dry hair.
  
• Alkaline- has an intense alkali-based fixative that penetrates deep into the hair structure, revealing its scales. Among the advantages, we can highlight the fact that the result from such a perm lasts for about 3 months and a very affordable price. The downsides are poor results on coarse hair and a drying effect on soft hair.
  
• Neutral- works equally well on both soft and coarse hair. The curling result lasts from 3 to 6 months.
  
• With thioglycolic acid- also known as "safe". This is due to the effect of thioglycolic acid on the hair - the hair shafts swell gradually, due to which the degree of damage is minimal.
  
• - the softest and rather expensive long-term perm procedure. There is no ammonia, hydrogen peroxide or aggressive acids in the curling composition. It is carried out due to components of plant origin. Hair is not only curled, but also restored.
  
• Silk— silk proteins, which are part of the fixative, gently envelop each hair shaft, making them not only spiral-shaped, but also incredibly soft and moisturized. This method is one of the most expensive.
  
• — carving is something between bio-perm and classic perm. It has a softer, but still chemical composition. Carving gives the effect of soft curls, so if you expect to get bouncy curls, choose something else.
  
• Japanese- this is not a separate variety, but rather a class of safe perms. This includes silk, matrix and neutral.
  
• American- gives large and pronounced spiral curls. Looks good on hair of medium length and longer.
  

Reference! For American curls, special Olivia Garden curlers are used.

The safest perm is considered to be bio-perm and all Japanese techniques. The more natural and gentle the composition, the better it is for the hair. If you are in doubt about your choice, be sure to consult a specialist. He will tell you the best option based on the length, thickness and condition of your curls.

Types according to the method of winding strands

Let's consider the procedure depending on the winding method:

• Horizontal— curlers with the principle of horizontal winding are used, while their type and material may vary. This method is considered classic.
  
• Vertical— curlers for this type of curling look like an elongated base with cut spirals along the contour. The strand is inserted into these spirals. Both thin and thick curlers, or a combination of both, can be used to achieve the most natural effect.
  
• Spiral- with this method you can get small curls and amazing volume. It involves twisting the hair into a plait, and then winding the plait onto a special thin bobbin.
  
• Basal- used to correct overgrown curls and to give root volume to thin hair without curling the length. This is done by twisting the strands in a “half-eight” pattern on curlers, and fixing the remaining length with an elastic band.
• Double wrap- this method is used on long hair in order to get a more intense curl. In this case, the root strand is wound on thin bobbins, and the length is wound on curlers of the required diameter.
• Curling the ends of your hair- also known as "local". To implement it, curlers of different diameters and sizes and various winding methods can be used.
  
• On curlers- These are long, soft and elastic curlers. Curling with curling irons is considered the softest and most gentle, and due to their shape they give the most natural result.
  
• Large curls- large curlers are used to create large curls. In this case, the specialist must control the time the composition is left on the hair. The larger it is, the stiffer and more expressive the curl.
  

Note! Large curls stay on the hair for less time, as they quickly sag and straighten under their own weight.

• Small curls or afro- this method is most often used by girls with thin and sparse hair of medium length. For curling, small curlers or spiral curlers are used. Please be patient - this installation will take from 3 to 5 hours. The volume is incredible and the longer the hair, the more “spherical” the shape the hair will take.
• Waves- carried out using large or special ribbon-shaped curlers, through which the strand is pulled and then moistened with a fixative.

Permed hairstyles

For short hair

1. Apply a small amount of styling gel or wax to your hands and hold the strands in your hands, giving them a little more volume and texture.
2. If you have bangs, separate them from your hair and place them on your forehead. Put a headband or headband on your head that will accentuate your short, playful curls.
3. Give your curls a wet look by applying a styling gel with the appropriate function.

For medium and long hair

The longer the hair, the more variations of hairstyles. You can adapt any usual hairstyle to curls, and it will look more impressive.

1. Lay your hair on one side, fixing it on your free temple. If you wish, you can decorate your hair with a flower.
2. Pull your hair into a high ponytail at the top of your head, parting the curls so that half falls on your face and the other on your back.
3. Styling with the effect of wet hair is still relevant, which can be done using appropriate styling products.
4. Give your hair even more volume and fullness by drying it after washing it with a hairdryer with a diffuser attachment.

Perm with bangs

In the classic version of the curl, the bangs remain straight. If the bangs are cut straight, very short or very asymmetrical, then the curls will look strange and bristle in all directions. If the bangs have already grown out or are cut in a ragged way, curl them along with the rest of the hair.

How is hair perm done?

Perm composition

When choosing a curling product, it is very important to pay attention to its chemical composition. It must meet the following parameters:

• Do not change the natural color of your hair.
• Easy to wash off.
• Have a slight scent of a perfume composition.

First of all, pay attention to the Ph level - the higher it is, the more destructive it is to the natural keratin layer of the hair.

Depending on the type of perm, one of the following permanents is used:

• alkaline;
• acid-balanced;
• soft;
• gel-like;
• foamy.

Tools and compositions for perm

• Curlers and bobbins– come in different materials (wood, plastic, fabric, foam) and sizes. Designed for curling and fixing curls in the required position.
• Paper– used during curling to prevent split ends. Also, the curls are covered with paper during root curling.
• Retainer– a liquid used at the last stage of curling to fix the achieved result.

How long does it take to get a perm?

Session length varies from 1.5 to 5 hours, depending on the technique used, the length and thickness of the hair.

How often can you perm your hair?

Most often, the styling is updated as the root zone grows, that is once every 3-5 months. You shouldn't get a perm more often. In addition, there should be an intensive recovery phase between sessions.

How long does it last?

The stability of the curl depends on the chemical composition and natural structure of the curls. On coarse hair, the curl lasts much less than on soft hair. The average is 3 months.

Perm hair at home

, if you prepare the composition and necessary tools in advance. But you shouldn’t do this if you don’t have similar experience - there’s a high risk that you won’t get an even result. If you are confident in your abilities and are determined to do a perm yourself, follow the following instructions.

1. Make a mirror corridor placing one mirror in front of you, the other behind your back, in order to better control your actions.
2. Comb your hair thoroughly and divide it into sections for ease of curling and processing. Remember that the curls must be clean, without traces of care and styling products.
3. Use curlers or bobbins, following a pre-selected curling pattern.
4. Treat your hair with a chemical compound- Be very careful here. Each curl should be evenly soaked. Don't skimp on money, but don't go overboard either. Be sure to wear protective gloves first.
5. Leave the product for the required time– do not deviate from the manufacturer’s instructions. 10 minutes before the expected completion, unwind one curler on the back of your head - if the curl is sufficiently curled, proceed to the next step. If not, wait as long as indicated in the manual. The maximum permissible exposure time is 45 minutes.
6. Rinse the product from your hair without removing the curlers. Then rinse your hair with plenty of running water. Finally, pat your hair dry with a towel and let your hair dry until slightly damp.
7. Apply fixative– all the same, without removing the curlers, distribute the fixative over your hair and let it absorb. Follow the manufacturer's instructions. After the required time has passed, wash your hair and untwist the curlers. Let the strands dry naturally or use a hair dryer on cool air setting.

Important! Work with chemical composition only with gloves!

Modern preparations and products for hair perm

Ollin

The manufacturer offers three products intended for perming hair:

• Curl Hair Perm Gel is capable of turning straight strands into elastic curls, while creating a protective keratin film on them.
• Mix fluid “Fluid mix Ollin Curl Hair"— softens the effect of the chemical composition, preventing hair drying and split ends.
• Retainer– is the final means to consolidate the result obtained.

With proper care, the curling effect lasts up to three months.

Wella

The Wave it perm set consists of 3 products:

• care;
• curling lotion;
• retainer

In addition, you can choose a set depending on your hair type - for normal, difficult to style and colored curls.

A distinctive feature of Wella sets is Flexi-Protect technology with a keratin complex for intensive nutrition and restoration of the hair shaft during styling. The manufacturer promises lasting results for up to 12 weeks.

Schwarzkopf professional

The Natural Styling series of permanent curling products has several branches, which makes it easier to choose a product for your hair type, whether it is weak, unruly or thin.

Thanks to a well-chosen composition, the curls do not lose their moisture and are saturated with the missing microelements. The result lasts up to six months. The line includes the following products:

1. Gel- used for partial or root perm.
2. Lotion– used for classic curling, there are several types. For normal, colored, porous and coarse hair.
3. Fluid– used to create a short-term curl effect.
4. Neutralizer– used as the final step for each type of curl.
5. Revitalizing spray– used as a treatment after perm. Makes strands softer and more manageable.

Kapous

The innovative composition intensively curls curls without disturbing the hair structure. The manufacturer made sure that it was easy even for a beginner to choose the appropriate composition, and therefore divided the lotions according to markings, where:

• 0 – for hard, unpainted ones.
• 1 – for normal unpainted ones.
• 2 – for dyed and damaged hair or for re-perm.

The products contain fruit acids, keratin polymers, elastins and silicones that help maintain healthy hair.

The fixator contains ammonium thioglycolate instead of ammonia, which makes the process more gentle.

Paul Mitchell

It has a gentle and soft composition, thanks to which, even after repeated perm, the hair quickly recovers and returns to normal. You can find three types of products from the manufacturer:

• Alkaline– for gray and thick hair.
• Exothermic– for normal, dry and colored skin.
• Acid– for thin and lightened hair.

The set of products includes deep cleaning shampoo, curling compound, conditioner and neutralizer.

Results - BEFORE and AFTER photos

Here are photos before and after the procedure:

How to care for permed hair?

No matter how gentle the composition, the hair structure still suffers. It is possible to minimize negative consequences if you follow the care recommendations.

When can you wash your hair after a perm?

The chemical composition is fixed on the hair for several more days, from the moment of the procedure, so experts recommend washing your hair no earlier than 3-5 days in advance.

How to style hair after perm?

For the first 3 days after curling, refrain from using styling products - they, like washing, can negatively affect the structure of the shaft. If possible, avoid using a hair dryer and do not tie your hair with an elastic band.

Industrial products after perm - shampoo, balm, mask

Most hair restoration products contain keratin, protein, panthenol and extracts of treated plants, which is ideal for hair after perm. If you are looking for products in the mass market, then choose products marked “for dry and brittle”, “for colored”, “for severely damaged hair”. If you have a professional cosmetics store in your city, then pay attention to the following products.

Shampoos: The main rule when choosing a shampoo after a perm is that it should not contain sulfates. The softer and more natural the composition, the better.

Balms:“intensive hydration” from Schwarzkopf, Hydra Mist for dry and frizzy hair from T-LAB Professional, “Smoothing” from Paul Mitchell, etc.

Masks: Nutri Argan nourishing from NHP, moisturizing with SPF filter “Inebrya Ice Cream Dry-T”, strengthening Green Light Day By Daw.

Oils: ampoule oils for restoration Kleral System Silk Senjal, restorative natural oils from “Secrets of Grandma Agafya”, sea buckthorn oil for curly hair from Organic Shop. From natural oils you can use grape seed oil, sea buckthorn, burdock, coconut and cocoa butter.

Masks after perm at home

After chemical exposure, you want to give your hair more natural, and then folk recipes come to the rescue.

Black bread mask

Ingredients:

• Black bread – 200 grams;
• Kefir – 200 ml;
• Chicken yolk – 2 pcs;
• Honey – 1 tsp.

Preparation and use:

Pour kefir over the bread and leave to soak overnight. The next morning, add the remaining ingredients and mix thoroughly. Wet the hair roots with water and distribute the mask over the scalp with soft, massaging movements. Leave on for 20 minutes and then rinse off.

Garlic and onion mask

This mask is very effective, but has a rather pungent odor, so use it only when you have enough time to air out.

Ingredients:

• Onion – 1 medium sized head;
• Garlic – 2-3 cloves;
• Honey – 1 tbsp. l;
• Shampoo – half a glass.

Preparation and use:

Squeeze the juice from the garlic and onion into a bowl, add shampoo and then a spoonful of honey. Carefully distribute the resulting substance over the strands and leave for 15 minutes. After time, lather well and rinse several times. If you need to remove the smell faster, make a soda solution (half a teaspoon of soda per liter of water).

Mask with yolk and glycerin

Ingredients:

• Yolk – 2 pcs;
• Glycerin – 10 drops;
• Water – 3 tbsp. l;

Preparation and use:

Move all ingredients together until smooth. Distribute the substance first along the roots and then along the entire length of the hair. Put a shower cap on top and wrap your head with a towel. Leave it on for an hour, then rinse off.

Note! If you wish, you can enhance the effect of the mask if you rinse your hair not with water, but with a solution of nettle or chamomile.

Where to get a good perm, how to choose the right salon?

Of course, it is better to get a perm in a salon than at home. But at the same time, be sure to pay attention to the reputation of the beauty salon, the experience of the specialist and the products he uses.

Read the reviews on the Internet, look at the gallery of works, ask your friends - and if everything suits you, feel free to sign up for a session!

Prices

Prices for perm in Moscow beauty salons, information taken from zoon.ru:

Alternative techniques

Perhaps the best alternative to perm is. It does not harm the hair, looks more natural and is not so noticeable on regrown roots, since the transition from straight to wavy hair is very smooth.

In the skillful hands of a master, a bio-perm will not only add volume to your hair, but also make it healthier.

Previously, perm could negatively affect the condition of the hairstyle. But modern manufacturers are constantly working to improve the cosmetic products they offer, focusing on safety. Now the offered products do not cause severe harm to the hair. They are easy to use. A striking example is the curling product Lockon, which allows you to turn even the straightest tow into charming curls.

Manufacturers

Magic Curl from Galant-Cosmetic

Easy to use, reliable product suitable for salon and self-use. The composition includes a unique healing complex, including natural keratin.

The magic curl transforms the appearance of your hair, making your hair healthy and manageable. Thanks to biologically active components, a thin protective film appears on the strands after the procedure, reliably protecting after the chemical procedure. Want shiny, silky curls? Choose Magic Curl.

A package costs 100 rubles.

Curl from the Svoboda company

The Svoboda company has developed a product called Lock, which today breaks all records in popularity. The modern product allows you to get both elastic curls and light, slightly noticeable curls.

By following the instructions, you can create a slight effect of naturally curling strands. The manufacturer guarantees that the effect will last for six months after the procedure. Suitable for fine, bleached, coarse, normal hair.

The composition, in addition to chemical reagents, includes protective components. After the procedure, the strands will become shiny and healthy. Suitable for self-use. Used by salon specialists. Curl price 135 rubles.

Curl from Aromax

Aromax offers curling product Curl, which contains a strong reagent that guarantees a long-lasting effect after the procedure. Suitable for self-application. Used by beauty salon professionals.

Can be used for all hair types. The average cost is 45 rubles.

Curl from the Kalina concern

Concern Kalina presents a product for cold curling, Curl.

The concern is known for the high quality of its products. The Lokon product was no exception. It can be used at home and is suitable for all types of hair.

A bottle costs 70 rubles.

What you need for home use

To work you will need the following tools:

• comb with sparse teeth, pointed opposite edge;
• bobbins of the required diameter or curlers with a lock. It is enough to have from 50 to 80 pieces on hand;
• plastic containers;
• gloves, a cap and several towels.

Prepare Curl, vinegar 9 or 6%, conditioner and Vaseline.

Attention! All items purchased for the procedure must match the type and length.

Perm procedure

1. We do a sensitivity test. All drugs can trigger an allergic reaction. Before the procedure, apply a few drops to the back of your hand. If after 15 minutes there is no redness on the hand, the product is suitable for further use.
2. Wash your hair with a mild shampoo. Dry your head with a towel.
3. Put on rubber gloves and start preparing the working solution. To do this, pour a small part of the contents of the tube with the working solution into a plastic container.
4. Carefully separate a small strand. Using a foam sponge, whisk the product and apply it.
5. The width of the strand must be selected in accordance with the length of the bobbin. The upper part of the head is wound first, and the frontal and temporal parts last.
6. When all the curls are wound into bobbins, you need to wet them again with a sponge, avoiding getting the product on your scalp and face.
7. Cover with a plastic cap.
8. Leave the product on for 15–30 minutes. The duration of the procedure depends on the length and condition of the hair, as well as on the desired elasticity of the future curl.
9. To determine the required time, spin several bobbins on different parts of the head and see the result. If the curl turns out to be weak, increase the effect of the drug.
10. Remove the bobbins and rinse the strands with warm running water without disturbing the integrity.
11. Take the fixative and pour it into a glass container. Lather with a foam sponge. Carefully treat each strand with a fixative.
12. The fixative lasts for 5–10 minutes.
13. Rinse your hair with warm running water and apply a leave-in conditioner.

For several days, try not to touch your hair or use shampoos.

Photos before and after

How long does the effect last?

The procedure, performed by professionals, will last for six months. The result depends on compliance with the technological process and the type of hairstyle. Coarse, unruly hair is straightened faster. Thin, colored strands retain the curl effect for a long time. Natural predisposition influences.

If the procedure was carried out at home, the duration can be significantly reduced.

Remember that the procedure cannot be repeated until the curls take on a natural look and shape.

Trim overgrown ends. They won't return to form. The appearance of the ends will ruin the hairstyle.

Consequences and hair care

Manufacturers are constantly improving their formulations. After the procedure, curls can not only acquire the desired shape, but also improve their appearance. But the individual characteristics of hair cannot be excluded from attention.

Follow all instructions and requirements of manufacturers, listen to the advice of specialists. Simple actions will help you avoid negative consequences: What should you do after curling:

1. Do not use shampoos for 48 hours. This time is enough to consolidate the result.
2. It is advisable to comb with a wooden comb with long, rather sparse teeth. If the perm was done on long hair, this comb should be used constantly, and not for the first few days.
3. After each wash, use masks, conditioners and balms. You can rinse your hair with an infusion of chamomile or mint. This is a very important point! During the procedure, the strands change their natural structure and become rough. Protective products will help make the strands healthy and smooth, which will have a beneficial effect on the appearance of the hairstyle.
4. Remember to trim your ends at least once a month. A haircut will help revitalize your hair.
5. Chemicals destroy the structure. After the procedure, they cannot be painted for several weeks. Ideally, you should not do coloring a month before curling.
6. Perm should be carried out in rooms with an air temperature of no more than 22 degrees Celsius.

By following these simple, but very important rules, you can keep your hair in excellent condition even after exposure to chemical reagents.

Find out more about the rules of hair care after perm on our website.

Advantages and disadvantages

Benefits of Curling:

• the effect lasts six months;
• the product is easy to use independently;
• the presence of protective components in the composition of the drug;
• affordable price.

Flaws:

• Failure to follow the rules specified in the instructions will spoil the final result. Hair will become brittle, lifeless, and split;
• chemical components cause an allergic reaction.

Follow safety rules. Choose your products carefully. Self-administration of drugs is permissible if you have experience. Professionals know the nuances that allow them to achieve excellent results.

Useful videos

How to get natural curls.

How to Perm Hair.

Manufactured hair perm products must meet the following requirements:

• ensure the preservation of the curl for at least 3 months, even in the case of a haircut;
• do not change the original hair color;
• easy to wash off hair with warm water;
• contain surfactants (surfactants) that provide good wetting and impregnation of the hair;
• do not have an allergic or irritating effect on the skin and mucous membrane; have a perfume scent (not strong).

The basis of almost all currently produced hair perm preparations are organothio compounds and their derivatives. Most recipes for foreign preparations for perm contain thioglycolic acid CH 2 - S - HCOOH.

Thioglycolic acid has reducing properties. Compounds belonging to the organothio group make it possible to influence the shape of the hair even at normal human body temperature. This, obviously, can explain the fact that organothio compounds are included in almost all preparations for perm. The major disadvantages of these compounds include the following:

• due to the release of hydrogen sulfide and mercaptan in the air, they have a sharp, unpleasant odor;
• are toxic and can cause painful phenomena - headaches, general malaise, decrease in the content of white blood cells, etc.

When studying the effect of a solution of thioglycolic acid on the human body when used in hairdressing, cases of diseases were noted in persons preparing solutions of thioglycolic acid: a decrease in the content of white blood cells, platelets, headaches, general weakness and malaise, gastrointestinal disorders, disruption of work kidney In addition, when working with solutions of thioglycolic acid, skin diseases were also observed: redness and dryness, cracks, dermatitis, sometimes blistering rash, itching, eczema, urticaria and nail damage. Such diseases can occur both in the hairdresser and in people who independently use such compositions.

As protective equipment for hairdressers, various bactericidal ointments, biological protective preparations, coating of nails with varnish, reducing the time of contact with harmful solutions and the use of gauze masks when working are recommended. It is not recommended to neglect protective equipment. Their skillful and correct use largely protects the hairdresser from direct contact with harmful compounds and their vapors. So, when winding hair onto bobbins, you should use rubber gloves. Having acquired the skill of working with gloves, you can perform this operation at the same speed as without gloves.

For chemical hair perming, hairdressing salons use the following preparations: “Londa” and “Mintox” (GDR), “Lokon” and “Zavitol” (USSR). In terms of the chemical composition and degree of impact on hair, “Londa” is close to “Lokon”, and “Zavitol” is close to “Mintox”. The similarity between the preparations "Londa" and "Lokon" is explained by the fact that they are prepared on the same basis. The percentage of the main component - thioglycolic acid - in the preparations "Londa" and "Lokon" is about 6.5%.

The Central Research Institute of Consumer Services tested the effect of various chemical perm preparations on hair. Hair strands 12 cm long of the same structure, normal structure, and medium hardness were taken. The test results were assessed by reducing the length of the strand after curling due to the formation of artificial

waviness due to the effects of drugs on the hair. In addition to the perm preparations listed above, the French preparation “Permabel” was used during testing. The exposure time of the drugs on the hair was 10, 20 and 30 minutes. The results of the tests are presented in table. 1.

The table shows that the degree of impact of various drugs on hair is different, all other things being equal. When treating hair with Londa, after 10 minutes the length of the strand is reduced by 40%. When held for 20 minutes, the greatest reduction in strand length was observed - by 50% of the original length. When held for 30 minutes, the degree of curl of the strand decreased to 33% of the original length. This can be explained by the loss of the necessary elasticity in the hair as a result of a decrease in internal stresses in the keratin under the influence of the drug. Excessive exposure time has a harmful effect on the hair - it stretches even under its own weight. Thus, we can conclude that when curling hair with Londa, the exposure time should not exceed 20 minutes. This time can be increased only after the hairdresser checks the degree of curl of the hair. To do this, you need to remove the cap after 15 - 20 minutes and check three or four curls. Only after this can the holding time be increased.

As can be seen from the table, the test results for the drugs “Lokon” and “Londa” are almost similar, therefore all recommendations for the use of the drug “Londa” also apply to “Lokon”.

The French drug "Permabel" is less effective on hair. This is explained by the lower content of thioglycolic acid in it (about 3%). When the hair was treated with Permabel, even after 30 minutes the hair did not lose its elasticity. Therefore, for this drug, 30 minutes of exposure are not critical. To achieve the same results in hair curling that can be obtained by treating hair with “Londa” and “Lokon”, the holding time for the drug “Permabel” should be 30 - 40 minutes.

The perm preparation "Mintox" has an even weaker effect on hair keratin, due to the fact that it does not contain thioglycolic acid. It consists mainly of the salts sodium sulfite (Na2SO 3) and sodium bisulfite (NaHSO3). Similar to the drug "Mintox" is the domestic drug "Zavitol", which also does not contain thioglycolic acid. When the hair is exposed to the drug "Mintox" for 10 minutes, the hair strand is shortened by only 7%, after 20 minutes - by 17% of the original length. With a further increase in exposure time, the length of the hair strand does not change.

The perm preparation "Zavitol", like "Mintox", does not contain organothio compounds. The basis for this drug is sodium sulfide with a small addition of glucose, glycerin, pine extract and perfume. The absence of thioglycolic acid in the Zavitol formulation is a positive factor, despite the fact that it has a weaker effect on hair. "Zavitol" is much cheaper than all the drugs used and, in addition, is non-toxic. Like "Lokon" and "Londa", the drug "Zavitol" is used mainly for curling dyed and bleached hair. It can be used for curling and undyed hair. However, in this case it is not possible to get an equally good curl on all hair types. On hair that has not been dyed, it gives only a soft natural wave.

When perming hair, the composition, which acts as a reducing agent, acts on the keratin of the hair, breaking the cystine bond - S - S, which leads to damage to protein fibers and leads to loss of elasticity in the hair.

A protein, which is a compound with peptide bonds - CO - NH -, is a polycondensate of amino acids. Polypeptide chains of a protein can be expressed in general by the following scheme:

This compound, under the action of reducing agents, decomposes at the site of the cystine bond - S - S:

Once this bond is broken, the hair gains the ability to easily take on the shape given to it. They become plastic, and their ability to withstand physical and chemical influences drops sharply. When exposed to low concentrations of oxidizing agents, the cystine bond - S - S is restored, and the hair again acquires elasticity properties. However, due to the hydrolysis of keratin amino acids when exposed to perm preparations, some of the hair substance goes into solution, which entails a decrease in their mass. Consequently, when perming preparations act on hair, both reversible and irreversible processes occur. Reversible processes include the rupture and restoration of the cystine bond - S - S of hair keratin; irreversible processes include a decrease in hair mass due to hydrolysis of keratin amino acids.

Thus, when chemicals for curling interact with hair, chemical reactions occur, as a result of which the hair acquires the ability to maintain its shape.

A very important characteristic is the pH value of the drug used for perming hair. The higher the pH of the composition, the stronger its effect on the hair. When they are exposed to compositions of high concentrations, they swell the faster, the higher the concentration of the composition. Increasing the pH of the medium, i.e. alkaline composition, above 12 is unacceptable in hairdressing practice. With such a high pH value, not only the destruction of cystine bonds can occur, but also complete hydrolysis of the amino acids of hair keratin. When treating hair with such strong compounds, the duration of exposure and increased temperature are especially harmful. That is why most chemical compositions for curling and hair coloring have a pH of 9 - 11.

The Central Research Institute of Consumer Services also conducted studies to determine the degree of damage to hair as a result of exposure to various perm preparations. The degree of hair damage was determined using the following method: 50 ml of curling preparations were poured into a flask, heated to 50 °C and 0.5 g of hair was added there. The contents of the flask were mixed well and kept in a thermostat at a constant temperature of 50°C for 60 minutes. Then the solution was filtered and neutralized with a 5% acetic acid solution, washed with water and dried to constant weight at 105°C.

The degree of hair damage was determined by the weight loss of the sample. The research results are presented in table. 2.

From consideration of the data given in the table, we can conclude that the degree of damage to hair when exposed to perm preparations depends on the properties of these preparations. Consequently, a drug that curls hair in an extremely short time can cause the greatest damage to hair, all other things being equal.

Particular care must be taken when working with the most concentrated preparations "Lokon" and "Londa", since the likelihood of damage when treating hair with them is greatest.

The hair structure of different people is not the same. Some hair is easy to curl, others are more difficult, on some the curl lasts a long time, on others much less.

To perform a high-quality perm, you need to choose the right product for the job.

The general requirements for manufactured perm preparations are as follows:

1) after curling for 2 - 3 months, the hair should retain its curl even if it is cut to maintain its original shape;

2) after curling, the hair should not change its original color;

3) the drug should be easily washed off the hair with warm water;

4) the preparation must contain surfactants that ensure good wetting of the hair and its impregnation;

5) the drug should not cause allergies or irritate the skin;

6) the drug should have a slight scent of perfume.

The basis of almost all currently produced hair perm preparations are organothio compounds and their derivatives. Most recipes for foreign preparations for perms contain thioglycolic acid, which has the formula

CH 2 - S - HCOOH.

Thioglycolic acid has reducing properties. Compounds belonging to the organothio group make it possible to influence the shape of the hair even at normal human body temperature. This, obviously, can explain the fact that organothio compounds are included in almost all formulations of preparations for perm. The major disadvantages of these compounds include the following:

1) release of harmful hydrogen sulfide and mercaptan vapors into the air, which have a strong unpleasant odor;

2) toxicity, which can cause painful phenomena - headaches, general malaise.

Researchers Cotter, Robson and Cameron studied the effect of a solution of thioglycolic acid on the human body when used in hairdressing. They noted cases of illness in persons preparing solutions of thioglycolic acid. This is a decrease in the number of white blood cells, platelets, headaches, general weakness, malaise, gastrointestinal disorders, etc.

At the same time, skin diseases were also noted: redness and dryness, cracks, dermatitis; sometimes blistering rash, itching, eczema, urticaria and nail damage. Moreover, these diseases can occur both in hairdressers and in people who independently use such compositions.

As protective agents against the effects of chemical compounds for hairdressers, various bactericidal ointments, biological protective preparations, coating of nails with varnish, reducing the time of contact with harmful solutions and the use of gauze masks when working are recommended.

In our country, hair perm is performed with the preparations “Londa” and “Mintox” (GDR), “Lokon” and “Zavitol” (USSR).

Comparing these drugs, you can see that in terms of their chemical composition and degree of effect on hair, “Londa” is close to “Lokon”, and “Zavitol” is close to “Mintox”. The similarity between the preparations "Londa" and "Lokon" is explained by the fact that they are prepared on the same basis. The percentage of the main component of these drugs (thioglycolic acid) in both Londa and Lokon is about 6.5%.

To properly understand the process of the effect of perm preparations on hair, it is necessary to remember the morphological and histological structure of the hair (for details on the structure of the hair, see Chapter I).

The chemical composition of hair is a complex compound, the main parts of which are keratin and pigment.

Keratin is a protein with a high sulfur and nitrogen content. Alkaline compounds have a decomposing effect on hair keratin at elevated temperatures. Acids act similarly only at high temperatures and concentrations. Keratin is made up of amino acids, the most important of which is cystine. When the drug is exposed to hair, the cystine bond of keratin - S - S - is broken, and the hair becomes able to take one form or another.

To preserve the hair shape obtained as a result of curling, it is necessary to use a drug that can restore the cystine bond of keratin - S - S-. For this purpose, drugs with oxidizing properties are usually used. That is why hydrogen peroxide (fixer) is used to fix the curl, which is a strong oxidizing agent. When hydrogen peroxide acts on hair, the cystine bond - S - S - is restored, and the hair acquires its original elasticity properties.

However, due to the hydrolysis of keratin amino acids, when they are exposed to perm preparations, some of the hair substance goes into solution, which entails a decrease in their weight. At the Research Techno-Chemical Institute of Consumer Services, tests were carried out on the effects of various perm preparations on hair. They were carried out on strands of hair 12 cm long, having the same structure. The test results were assessed by the amount of reduction in hair length under the influence of drugs due to the formation of artificial waviness. In table Figure 9 shows the change in the length of hair strands depending on the time of treatment with various perm preparations with an initial strand length of 12 cm.

Table 9

Thus, from the table above it is clear that, other things being equal, the degree of effect of various drugs on hair is different.

Thus, when exposed to the drug "Londa" for 10 minutes, the length of the strand is reduced by 40%, and within 20 minutes - by 50%. When the hair is exposed to the drug for 30 minutes, the length of the strand is reduced by only 33%. This can be explained by the fact that excessive exposure to the drug has a harmful effect on the hair, causing it to stretch even under its own weight. Thus, we can conclude that when curling hair with Londa, the optimal holding time is 20 minutes.

As can be seen from the table, the test results for the drugs Lokon and Londa are similar, with a few exceptions. Therefore, everything said above in relation to the drug "Londa" should also be applied to "Lokon".

As you can see from the table, the French drug "Permabel" has a less vigorous effect on hair. This is explained by the lower content of thioglycolic acid in it (about 3%). When the hair was exposed to this drug, even for 30 minutes, the hair did not lose its elasticity. From this we can conclude that for the drug "Permabel" a 20-minute exposure time is not critical and can be increased to 30 minutes or more.

The drug "Mintox" has even less effect on hair keratin, since it does not contain thioglycolic acid. It consists mainly of sodium sulfite and bisulfite salts (Na 2 SO 3, NaHS0 3).

Similar to the drug "Mintox" is the domestic drug "Zavitol".

The table shows that when the hair is exposed to the drug "Mintox" for 10 minutes, the length of the hair strand is shortened by only 7%, after 20 minutes - by 17%; with a further increase in exposure time, the length of the hair strand does not change.

The perm preparation "Zavitol", like "Mintox", does not contain organothio compounds. The basis of this drug is sodium sulfide with a small addition of glucose, glycerin, pine extract and perfume. The absence of thioglycolic acid in the Zavitol formulation is a positive factor, even though it has less effect on the hair. The drug "Zavitol" is mainly intended for curling dyed and bleached hair.

The pH value of the drug used for perm hair is a very important factor. The higher the pH of the environment, the stronger the drug’s effect on the hair. Swelling of hair when exposed to high-concentration formulations occurs the faster, the higher the concentration. An increase in the pH of the environment, i.e., the alkalinity of the composition, above 12 is not acceptable in hairdressing practice. With such a high pH value, not only the destruction of cystine bonds can occur, but also complete hydrolysis of hair keratin amino acids. When treating hair with such strong compounds, long exposure times and elevated temperatures are especially harmful. That is why chemical compositions for hair curling and coloring mostly have a pH of 9 - 11.

The Research Technochemical Institute of Consumer Services also conducted studies to determine the degree of damage to hair as a result of exposure to various perm preparations. The degree of hair damage was determined using the following method: 50 ml of the curling preparation was poured into a flask, heated to 50 ° C and 0.5 g of hair was added there. The contents of the flask were mixed well and kept in a thermostat at a constant temperature of 50°C for 60 minutes. Then the solution was filtered and neutralized with a 5% acetic acid solution. After this, the hair was washed with water and dried to constant weight at a temperature of 105 ° C. In the table. Figure 10 shows the degree of damage to hair as a result of exposure to perm preparations.

Table 10

From the table above we can conclude that the degree of damage to hair when exposed to perm preparations depends on the properties of the preparation. Consequently, a drug that curls hair in an extremely short time can cause the greatest damage to hair; other things being equal, and in order to avoid this, the master must strictly observe the exposure time of the drug on the hair.

In order to do a high-quality perm yourself, you first need to understand what effects the hair is exposed to during this procedure. If we look at a section of straight hair, we will see that it has the shape of a circle, and curly hair has the shape of an oval. What follows from this?

To curl straight hair, you need to change the shape of its section while simultaneously twisting along the axis. When you wind your hair with curlers or bobbins, it bends and changes its shape. In this case, the internal bonds of keratin (the structural protein of hair) are displaced, but not torn, and the curl is maintained until the next hair wash.

Before perm The keratin scales of the surface layer of hair are tightly closed. But under the influence of the chemical composition, the bonds inside the hair disintegrate, the protein fibers are damaged, the scales open, and at this moment the hair, when wound on bobbins of different configurations, can be given any shape. The breakdown of molecular bonds should ideally reach 30%, then the hair will become stringy and viscous.

The next step is to stabilize (fix) the new hair shape. To do this, use a weak solution of hydrogen peroxide. At this moment, the swelling of the hair stops, and it begins to return to its natural state: the previous connections inside the hair are restored, the keratin acquires its original strength and elasticity, and the scales close. This stage should be given great importance: if the fixation is done incorrectly, then the perm will turn out to be fragile. During perm hair experiences physical and chemical effects simultaneously. When wound around a bobbin, the hair is stretched, in addition, each layer of hair puts pressure on the underlying one.

Thus, two forces act on the hair - tension and pressure. As the temperature during curling increases, the hair's ability to resist changing shape decreases, so during the curling process an insulating cap is used that retains the natural heat of the human body.

Each subsequent curl will look less beautiful than the previous one, since chemicals destroy the keratin of the hair, which is why a new substance is formed in the hair - meta-keratin, which reacts differently to the curling solution. There may come a time when your hair simply stops being curled and you will have to wait a while for it to grow back.

Hair curling tools.

If you decide to do perm at home, you will need a sufficient amount bobbins of various shapes and diameters - from 50 to 80 pieces. They do not have metal parts and are secured with rubber bands. Also for perm can be used at home plastic curlers, which are also secured with an elastic band or clip. Peignoir(a special cape made of waterproof fabric) will help you keep your clothes in order, and protective gloves will protect your hands and nails from aggressive solution. Among other things, you will need:

• plastic comb-tail,
• curling compound and fixative,
• insulating cap,
• bowl and sponge for fixative,
• drug for neutralization and stabilization,
• biological fixative.

Please note that during curling, products from the same company/brand must be used. You can buy all this in a specialized store.

Perm compositions

Almost all curling lotions are created on the basis of organothio compounds and their derivatives - they make it possible to influence the shape of the hair and change it even at normal body temperature. A very important characteristic of the drug is its pH value. The higher it is, the more active the effect of the drug on the hair and the greater the likelihood of complete destruction of bonds and dissolution of hair keratin. What curling compounds are used today?

Alkaline permanent (from Latin permaneo - I remain, I continue) is used for curling healthy and natural hair. The disadvantage of alkaline permanent is that it emits harmful hydrogen sulfide vapors, which can cause various side effects in humans - headaches, malaise, dermatitis (skin inflammation).

Acid-balanced permanent used for naturally weak, tired, heavily colored hair. This composition does not contain strong alkalis and is less harmful. Its main component is glyceryl monothioglycolate. This composition begins to act only after it is mixed with the activator (it is included in the kit, both liquids must be mixed before use, since the finished mixture cannot be stored), and a chemical reaction occurs with a large release of heat, and the composition warms up to 40 degrees C. The peculiarity of the acid composition is that due to the low swelling of the hair, the hairstyle is less afraid of moisture and weather influences, and looks more natural. The disadvantage is that the product is less stable and the curl does not last very long.

Soft alkaline permanent - a gentle solution, when used, the hair also receives a protein course of treatment, due to which the hair structure improves and the curl becomes more durable. Has no smell. Disadvantage: It often causes allergies.

Gel-like product for permanent - used for curling the roots of short hair, for example, curling the temporal zones in men's short haircuts. To do this, use a comb, not bobbins.

Foam permanent - the most harmless preparation for hair curling. It is so soft that the result is hair with volume and virtually no frizz. As mentioned above, great importance when perm is given fasteners which have oxidizing properties. Such preparations must contain hydrogen peroxide, but not more than 3%. Fixators perform the final operation in the hair curling procedure, ensure stabilization of the resulting curl, and return the internal structure of the hair to its previous state. Fixatives can be of the following type and consistency:

• concentrated fixatives(they are diluted with water in a ratio of one to one, their packaging bears the inscription “1+1”),
• non-concentrated fixative(ready to eat),
• foam solution(it is foamed with a sponge and applied to the hair, but it must be remembered that in this case it is the foam that “works”)
• non-foam solution(it is applied from the spout of the bottle separately to each bobbin).

Perm stages

Ideally, it is better to do the “chemistry” in a hairdressing salon with an experienced hairdresser, but if you want to do the perm yourself, then strictly follow the instructions. First of all, you need to carefully examine the scalp and find out if there are any inflammations, scratches or abrasions on the scalp. If so, then with perm You should wait until the skin heals. Perm should be performed in the following sequence:

1. Wash your hair with shampoo, squeeze out the moisture and dry with a towel.
2. Determine the method of applying the chemical to the hair.
3. Curl your hair into bobbins.
4. Soak your hair with the chemical composition.
5. Put on an insulating cap (option: cover your head with polyethylene, wrap it in a towel).
6. Record the start time of exposure on the clock.
7. Check the quality of the curl.
8. Rinse off the drug, without removing the bobbins, with running warm water for 5-7 minutes.
9. Apply the fixative for the first time for 5-8 minutes.
10. Remove the bobbins.
11. Apply the fixative a second time for 5 minutes.
12. Rinse the fixative with running water and squeeze out the water.
13. Rinse your hair with an acidic solution to neutralize the fixer.
14. Dry your hair with a towel.
15. Apply a medicinal product to restore hair structure.

When performing these procedures, there are several important points that you should definitely pay attention to and in no case neglect them.

Determining the condition of hair and scalp before curling

As mentioned above, if there is any damage to the skin on the head, perm better to reschedule. It is also necessary to check whether you have an allergic reaction to the drugs. It appears most quickly on the thin, delicate skin behind the ear. To check, you need to apply the composition with a cotton swab to the skin and after 10-15 minutes it will be clear whether there is an allergy or not (redness, rash, itching may appear).

You need to be especially careful with blonde (bleached) hair. If, after immersion in curling lotion, they do not break, but lose their original appearance, the composition must be diluted with water in a one-to-one ratio.

Choosing a curling composition

It is very important to assess the condition of the hair and make the right choice of the appropriate drug, since the degree of impact of different drugs differs from each other. First of all, we need to determine hair structure .

Let us remind you that hair can be soft, medium, or hard.

How to determine this?

If your hair feels soft and limp to the touch, then you have soft hair; if it is coarse and thick, it means it’s coarse; and if it’s neither, then you have normal hair. Then it is determined hair quality - thin, thick or normal. As a rule, hair structure and its quality are closely interrelated. If your hair is soft, it means it is thin. Blondes are more likely to have this type of hair, while brunettes are more likely to have thick, thick hair. In addition, it is very important type of previous hair treatment - dyed, bleached, with permanent residue, untreated. The fact is that the previous method of processing hair increases its porosity; it can also increase under the influence of sunlight, salt water, and hot air. In these cases, it is necessary to select the optimal chemical composition and means of protection, and in case of severe damage to the hair structure, it is better to carry out preliminary treatment. There are several permanent rules for damaged hair:

• when curling the roots that have grown after the perm, you should try not to apply the composition to previously curled hair;
• For heavily bleached hair and a large percentage of highlighted (partially dyed) strands, hair protection products must be used to even out the structure of dyed and sectioned hair and ensure uniformity perm. Keep in mind that every company that produces formulations for perm, usually offers several types of drugs:
• for healthy, previously untreated, difficult-to-treat hair,
• for normal hair,
• for porous hair that has previously been exposed to oxidizing agents,
• for blond and highlighted hair.

Having chosen a composition, you must strictly adhere to the instructions for use, since there may be differences not only between drugs from different companies, but also between the next generation of the composition from the same company.

Hair washing

There is a rule: perm Performed only on clean hair! Therefore, before curling, you must wash them, regardless of the last time you did this. This will slightly open the scales, which will speed up the penetration of the curling composition into the hair. The hair is washed once, and the scalp does not need to be massaged in order to preserve the fat layer on it, which will protect it from excessive exposure to acids and alkalis. After drying your hair with a towel, comb it, but you should not use a hair brush either before or after washing, so as not to damage the cuticle (the top layer of hair).

Curling hair with bobbins

Depending on the hair type, bobbins are chosen. If the hair is hard and elastic, then it is wound in thin strands on large bobbins. Medium-bodied hair is best curled with medium-sized curlers. Thin hair is wound into small bobbins, separating very thin strands. In this case, the strands must be separated with zigzag partings so that clear parting lines do not form, and the bobbins must be placed in a checkerboard pattern. It must be taken into account that the thickness and width of the strand must correspond to the thickness and length of the bobbin. The process of winding strands of hair onto a bobbin is as follows: the strands are separated from each other with a comb-tail, combed out, pulled perpendicular to the head and wound onto the bobbins. Make sure that the ends of the strands are carefully twisted and do not bristle or stand out from the general mass. The direction of hair curling depends on:

1. on the direction of hair growth (if this is not taken into account, the hair can be broken at the root),
2. from the future hairstyle (it is better to place the bobbins in the direction in which the hair will lie in the future),
3. from a haircut, which can be emphasized using curlers of different diameters.

The angle of tension of the strand can be different: the higher the strand is moved relative to its base, the more magnificent it will be later. If volume at the roots is not required, then the bobbin is placed as low as possible to the base of the strand. The securing elastic should not be tight, pressed into the hair or located close to the roots, so that there are no creases that can lead to hair breakage. The elastic band can be at the top of the curler or placed crosswise. You can also use hairpins to secure your hair - wooden or plastic.

Hair curling methods

Direct method. The hair is first moistened with the composition and then curled: first from the lower part of the back of the head, since this is the coldest zone and the healthiest hair grows there. To get an even curl, you need to curl your hair very quickly. They are pre-wetted in the composition, then, after winding, they are impregnated with it two more times. Indirect method. Wet hair is rolled into curlers and then moistened with a curling solution, and as it dries, it is moistened with a spray bottle. Winding is done in any sequence. This method is most preferable, since wet hair absorbs the solution faster and better retains its original structure. Mixed method. It is used for hair longer than 20 cm. Before curling, only the ends of the hair should be moistened with the composition, retreating 2/3 from the roots. In this way, the bobbins are wound around the entire head, and then all the hair is wetted. According to the way the bobbins are placed on the head, the curl is divided into horizontal and vertical. At horizontal way the hair is wound onto a bobbin located horizontally in relation to the base of the strand, from the end of the strand to its base. The disadvantage of this method is that a high-quality curl is obtained only on the first revolutions of the bobbin, then it weakens due to the increase in the diameter of the bobbin with each revolution. At vertical way the hair is wound in the reverse order - from the roots of the hair to its ends - and the bobbin is located vertically on the head. The main advantage of this type of curling is that the curl is uniform along the entire length of the strand. But at the same time, the hair does not come into contact with the head and there is not always enough internal heat for the curling process. One more note: if the hair has been permed several times and the ends of the hair are completely lifeless, then you can wrap the ends of the hair in paper. In this case, the ends will not suffer so much.

Applying the curling compound

When all the hair is twisted into bobbins, the composition is applied to each bobbin from above and below with a brush. This must be done quickly and evenly. You cannot apply a very large amount of the composition at once, since the upper layers of the hair, having absorbed too much moisture, will swell and will not allow the composition to pass into the lower layers, which will remain uncurled; in addition, the composition may begin to flow off, which is not always pleasant. The first time you need to apply the composition very sparingly. The second time you can apply a little more. And the third time it is applied until the liquid stops being absorbed. In this case, you cannot save the composition or fixative, since the hair must be soaked very well. Before applying the composition, the scalp along the hairline should be lubricated with a protective cream, and a napkin rolled up should be tied around the head. After impregnation of the hair with the composition, the tourniquet is removed. After the hair is evenly moistened, a warming cap is very carefully placed on the head, being careful not to move the bobbins. To preserve heat, the cap must be tightly secured, otherwise the curling process will be lengthened.

Exposure time

The holding time is always individual, on average from 10 to 30 minutes, as it depends on the structure of the hair and the desire to have a curl of one or another elasticity. To determine it, it is necessary to untwist the strands in different parts of the head during the curling process. (It's important to remember to twist the strands back!) A sign of a good curl is a bouncy and moist curl. After rinsing and fixing, the degree of curl in the hair will increase slightly, and if the exposure time is too short, the curl will not have time to form completely and will be short-lived; if exposed to the curling composition for too long, the hair can be severely damaged.

Rinse

Without removing the bobbins, you need to rinse your hair very thoroughly in the shower. Rinse time depends on hair length. So hair up to 10 cm in length is washed for at least 1 minute, 10-20 cm - 2 minutes or more, and hair longer than 20 cm must be washed for at least 3 minutes.

Fixation

Bottom line perm depends on proper fixation, which restores the damaged hair structure. If the fixation is done superficially, the molecular bonds of the hair will remain partially split and the hair will be inelastic. After thoroughly washing your hair and patting it with a towel, apply the fixative.

The holding time is determined according to the following table:

After applying the fixative and the required holding time, the bobbins are carefully removed, trying not to pull back the curl. Then the fixative is applied again. After re-fixation, the hair is thoroughly washed and treated with a preparation to neutralize and stabilize.

At the final stage, a biological fixative is applied, which instantly strengthens the hair keratin, makes the hair elastic, and affects the duration of preservation. perm and elasticity of curls. After thoroughly washing your hair after fixing, you need to blot it with a towel and apply the product evenly to it. After 3 minutes, the hair is thoroughly washed again. After this, you can use a rinse balm, which will restore the natural acid pH of the hair and scalp and make combing easier.

Hair care after perm

It takes at least 48 hours for the hair keratin to strengthen. Therefore, it is advisable not to dry or blow-dry your hair during this time, or curl it with curlers. For hair care with perm there are rules:

• You need to wash your hair only with special shampoos, and also use special hair balms with perm.
• If the hair is very dry, you should carry out intensive treatment that will restore the hair structure: you can use medicinal products, masks for weakened hair. The course of treatment is at least 10 sessions.
• After every 3-4 hair washes, it is advisable to use medicinal preparations, and for long hair, a preparation for the ends of the hair is necessary, because they will become drier after curling.
• In order for the “chemistry” to last as long as possible, you should not pull your hair while it is wet or twist it with a towel. You can comb them only with a sparse comb, and immediately shape them with your hands. Don't go to bed with a wet head.
• It is necessary to protect your hair from exposure to direct sunlight, salt and cold water, and in the summer to protect it with special preparations with ultraviolet protection.
• Laying is done in a more gentle way. It is important not to overdry your hair or damage it with backcombing. For styling you should use a nourishing foam balm.

And after all these manipulations, you can finally enjoy the result. The efforts of the home hairdresser will not be in vain: with perm morning styling becomes easier, because the hair has become more pliable and soft, holds its shape better and makes it possible to try many different hairstyles.