DIY jewelry in Ukrainian style. Ukrainian decoration – Silyanka

Ukrainian decoration - Silyanka is a gerdan, or another name for silyanka made of beads - an ancient decoration of Ukrainian women - a solid, even or openwork strip that fits tightly to the neck, tied at the back or fastened with a hook. It was woven from multi-colored beads on a hair or thread base, 0.5 to 4 cm wide, with a geometric pattern.
Silyankas wore one stripe or two or three narrow stripes of different colors and patterns around their necks, connecting them with several threads of glass beads and corals.

Multi-colored beaded necklace with an interesting pattern, a wonderful necklace in ethnic style.

In the east of Ukraine this decoration was unknown. Found in Podolia and Volyn. And in Galicia it was extremely common. Probably, the silyanka came to Galicia from Hungary. Similar to gerdans products called margele are also common in the Romanian part of Bukovina.
And according to this pattern I weaved mine silyanka, it can be seen in the “Works” section. Only the color scheme is slightly different from the scheme.

According to this pattern, I wove several Silyanok. Not difficult at all, but very beautiful.

Ukrainian jewelry has always performed two functions - protective and informative. The first had amulet and ritual jewelry that was worn only on the body - wedding rings, bracelets and crosses. Well, those that were worn over clothes spoke eloquently about the wealth of the owner: six threads of coral alluvium, for example, cost as much as a pair of oxen. Gerdany- beaded chest decorations in the form of a loop of two strips connected by a medallion at the solar plexus. They were worn mainly by men, but women also wore them. In Bukovina, the ends of the gerdan ribbons were connected by a mirror suspended from them.

The name “silyanka” comes from the method of making such jewelry (“silyannya”, threading - a method of stringing beads on a thread. Not wide (two to three centimeters) silyankas women wore it every day as a talisman (the power of the silyanka as a talisman was always determined by the ornament). For greater strength of the Hutsul amulet, for example, a beaded ribbon with a protective ornament was sewn onto a red strip of linen.

Our national costume is called one of the most attractive and colorful in the world. Beautiful and wise Ukrainian women knew how to dress elegantly and choose jewelry to match themselves. Modern designers and jewelers admire the products of the past and create stylized, authentic accessories based on them. Previously, it was believed that jewelry had a special meaning and protected housewives from the evil eye and evil spirits. Many of them have long been forgotten, and some can be seen in museums. These masterpieces are worth remembering!

Here are the 10 most famous and popular Ukrainian national jewelry:

1.Zgarda

This traditional neck ornament-amulet consisted of several rows of copper crosses, between which there were metal tubes, corals or spirals. All this was strung on a wire, strap or cord, and small disks with solar symbols were used as a clasp. The abundance of crosses on the zgarda was a sign of family wealth. It is worth saying that all the women tried to acquire the most beautiful jewelry so as not to be inferior to their neighbors. Sometimes the contents of the boxes were worth more than a house or a pair of oxen.

2.Salba

This was the name given to a bib made of fabric, embroidered with local and “overseas” silver coins. Their number could exceed 12 rows. Salbs were adored in Bukovina.

3.Dukach

This decoration was a medal-shaped coin with a metal bow, which was worn over a necklace. The dukach was considered a valuable decoration and a source of pride. It was worn prominently and passed down from generation to generation. The first dukachs were awarded to the Cossacks for their service. And they gave them to their lovers and daughters.

4.Balamuts

Such necklaces made of mother-of-pearl beads were otherwise called “white troublemakers.” They personified beauty, innocence and were designed to protect girls from excessive male attention. Charms and medallions were often added to the beads. In Ukraine they were considered a curiosity.

5. Rustle

Metal beads made from miniature bells were the hallmark of the Hutsul region. They say this is one of the most ancient Ukrainian jewelry.

6.Gerdans

These oblong breast decorations made of two strips of multi-colored beads were worn by both men and women. Their ornament served as a protective symbol and differed depending on the area. Gerdan could not be given away or lent to other people.

7.Crises

This name hides the wide round beaded collars that covered the chest and shoulders. On holidays, women wore several multi-colored kriz of different sizes at once.

8.Coral beads (corals)

This popular piece of jewelry made from many rows of small coral beads was also called the “wise necklace.” The corrals differed in finish, size and quality. Large red oval beads bound in silver were especially prized. Girls from wealthy families wore up to 30 coral threads, which were a symbol of their wealth and health.

9.Pissed pasjorks

Blown beads made of painted cheap or expensive Murano glass. The design was applied by hand using colored enamels. Sometimes these bright items were inlaid with gold.

10.Hryvnia

This short metal necklace resembles a crescent-shaped hoop. The hryvnia was made from gold, silver or inexpensive alloys. It gained popularity back in the 10th century and symbolized the status of its owner.

Conclusion

Ukrainian women also loved earrings. Little girls wore copper ones, while young girls and married ladies preferred silver or gold ones. It was believed that earrings help relieve headaches. Among the favorite shapes are crescents, months, bagels, as well as animal and plant patterns. And if you complement the look with embroidered shirt and a lush wreath... A sight for sore eyes!

Ukrainian women have always been bright and irresistible. Our national jewelry is an unsurpassed masterpiece of folk craftsmanship. Many of them have not lost their relevance and are waiting in the wings. This is a subject of our pride and sincere admiration. Do you have coral beads or a beaded necklace? We would try everything on the list! You need to love yourself and be sure to pamper yourself with beautiful jewelry. In our stores you will find many “precious surprises” and interesting collections. We will be glad to meet you!

And today embroidery, which is decorated by hand, is rightfully considered a real source of energy and strength. Such blouses and shirts were worn by both women and men, wearing embroidered shirts on special occasions, holidays, and also at cheerful folk festivals. Today, embroidered shirt is not only an integral element of the national costume, but also a real trend of the fashion season.

An embroidered blouse or shirt in Ukrainian style is stylish, prestigious, fashionable and original. Today, when decorating it, at least one hundred original and folk embroidery techniques are used. By the way, embroidered shirt today is not necessarily a short blouse or shirt; it can take the form of a free-flowing Ukrainian-style dress, a tunic or midi, belted with a bright patterned sash.

The choice of embroidery today, just as in ancient times, is determined by the symbolism and relevance of the ornaments and patterns depicted on clothing. Geometric strict patterns are more typical for men's shirts. These are zigzag “doodles”, a symbol of a bracelet, embossed diamond-shaped lines and much more in a strict color combination, which is the personification of courage, masculinity and strength.

Women's patterns and ornaments amaze the imagination with the ornateness and filigree of fine work, complex weaving and fantasy. Colorful embroidery can be decorated with natural or floral motifs, openwork interlacing of vines, rifles, and leaves. Colorful embroidery symbolizes youth, femininity, love, tenderness and chastity.

Dresses in Ukrainian style

Today, dresses in Ukrainian style are not only national clothing, but also an independent stylish element of the modern image of an active, sophisticated, business and elegant fashionista. Historically, Ukrainian dress was identified with tenderness and femininity. Today, dresses in Ukrainian style demonstrate genuine warmth, originality, as well as refined and extraordinary taste.

In order for the dress to truly reflect the ethnic culture of the Ukrainian people, to this day needlewomen use many different techniques for decorating clothes. Particularly popular when creating is the combination of light natural fabric as the basic element of the outfit, as well as contrasting embroidery. Among the most popular techniques are satin stitch and cross stitch embroidery; for formal and evening looks, designers use ribbon or bead embroidery. Such a dress in the Ukrainian style can either completely replicate the national costume of the people, or be a successful stylization of Ukrainian “folk”.

Among the variety of models, the main directions can be identified:

• Casual dresses in Ukrainian style. The difference between this outfit is the unique combination of simplicity of cut, femininity and light decoration in the form of embroidery only on the sleeve cuffs or collar.
  
• Dress in Ukrainian style for a cocktail or youth party. This may be a cut favored by active youth, repeating a simple tunic, but the presence of decor in the form of embroidery and accessories in the Ukrainian style is mandatory. This dress will highlight good taste.
  Stylish dress in Ukrainian style
• Evening, prom or wedding dress. The most exquisite cut, expensive natural fabric and generous embroidery with satin stitch, satin ribbons or sparkling beads. This outfit will not go unnoticed, as it is a skillful and contrasting combination of modern style and national Ukrainian traditions.
  

Why, when choosing an original and extraordinary outfit, should the choice fall on a Ukrainian outfit? The answer is simple: at any event, be it a social event, a youth party or a business dinner, Ukrainian motifs in a dress guarantee uniqueness and precious exclusivity of the image.

Shoes and hats

The national costume involves not only special clothing, but is also complemented by traditional shoes and hats. In Ukraine, as a rule, shoes were made of genuine leather. We all remember Gogol’s work “Evenings on a Farm near Dikanka”, where the charming Oksana asked Vakula to bring her red slippers. It was red boots made of soft leather with a high top that were the dream of all Ukrainian beauties, but were available only to representatives of a rich family or nobility. Poor women, along with men, were content with wrinkles - leather boots tied with ropes so that the top did not fall off while walking or working.

Women's headdresses, as a rule, were intended for married women and were supposed to completely cover their hair. The main ones were a kibalka, a scarf or a cap. But young unmarried girls could openly demonstrate their beauty, decorating their heads only with a wreath or a bright satin ribbon. For men, a greater variety of hats was presented.

Accessories

Symbolic jewelry has always been a favorite accessory of Ukrainian women. It is difficult to imagine a full-fledged folk image without. Such decoration has long been considered not only a way to emphasize youth and tenderness. Even today, a wreath is a symbolic amulet, which is woven according to special rules, where each flower and ribbon of a special color symbolizes any personal qualities, desires or events. For example, young mothers decorated their heads with a wreath of roses, the traditional viburnum symbolized female beauty, and chamomile symbolized the innocence and purity of a girl’s soul. Traditionally, 12 flowers were woven together, symbolizing the character, thoughts and desires of the girl.

Integrity and harmony are determined by correctly selected accessories. Today, a wreath in the Ukrainian style has acquired new shapes and has become an integral element of a bright and stylish image. Apart from the wreath, the Ukrainian female image cannot be imagined without beads. Since ancient times, women of any age have worn beads, traditionally red, to celebrations. By the way, this decoration also had a secret magical meaning. It personified the sun, warmth, and also protected from evil, hatred, envy and temptation. Ukrainians called such beads “namist”, decorating themselves not only for the holidays, but also for a traditional family evening. Today, large red beads are a stylish and relevant decoration, complementing the charismatic Ukrainian image, introducing bright notes and coloring everyday life.

Today, the world's most famous fashion houses use Ukrainian motifs when creating their fashion collections.

A refined interpretation of folk elements, embodied in clothing, shoes and accessories, emphasizes the originality and originality of the image in a colorful ethnic style. Each element of Ukrainian costume is a whole embodiment of the era, a tribute to the traditions of our ancestors. Thanks to such a deep intellectual component, a special Ukrainian harmony is created.

A lot of words have been said about the beauty of the Ukrainian national costume. It is not for nothing that the national costume of Ukrainians is considered one of the most colorful and attractive in the whole world. Various jewelry, just like men's jewelry, were not just wardrobe items, but also reliable amulets. Today I will introduce you to the national jewelry of Ukrainians and the functions that they performed.

Various folk decorations can be divided into two types: those worn on the body and those worn over clothing. The first performed ritual and protective functions, protecting people from the evil eye and damage. But the accessories worn over clothing were eloquent evidence of the owner’s wealth.

Gerdan is a woven chest decoration in the form of two strips of beads, which are connected at the front by a medallion. They dressed over their heads. Interestingly, this jewelry was previously worn by both women and men. In the eastern part of the country, gerdans were unknown, but were widely used in Galicia. Gerdan was considered a powerful amulet; it could not be given to another person or given to someone else to wear. The designs on the gerdan were usually coordinated with the embroideries of a particular area on the shirts.

Braids or Sylyanki- These are even strips of beads that are tied at the back of the neck. These decorations got their name from the method of their manufacture - “sylyannya”, stringing beads on a thread. Braids 2-3 cm thick were everyday decorations for Ukrainian women and served as a talisman. Depending on the ornament, braids could protect against the evil eye and damage, and attract good luck or vital energy. The Hutsuls sewed a beaded ribbon onto a red cloth - it was believed that this increased the protective power of the amulet.

Some of the holiday decorations were crises- collars up to 20 cm wide. They decorated the neck, while completely covering women’s shoulders and chest. On the holiday, women could wear several collars of different colors, lengths and widths at once.

Zgardy were made of metal and consisted of several rows of strung crosses. They were attached to the back of the neck with the help of two discs - chaprags, on which solar symbols were depicted: a wheel with a pair of spokes or circles. Zgardas were one of the most powerful Ukrainian amulets, and were worn exclusively under clothing.

One of the most popular breast decorations in the Hutsul region were rustles- metal necklaces in the shape of small bells. Researchers believe that this is the oldest of all known national decorations.

The cheapest, and therefore the most accessible for the majority of the population, were. They were made of multi-colored glass. Large beads were decorated with gold and painted with colored paints.

The category of inexpensive jewelry can also include pearls— necklaces made of translucent glass. As a rule, many pearls of different colors and lengths were worn around the neck.

Coralie consisted of small cylindrical beads strung in several rows. The number of times (rows) could reach 30 pieces. When my father went to the fair toor chobots, then his daughters certainly begged him to bring several rows of corrals or patsyorkas. These were, perhaps, the only jewelry available to the common people.

Ducats- these are nothing more than coins strung on a thread. Could be intertwined with beads. These were one of the most expensive breast decorations, as they were made from real gold coins. The presence of this decoration emphasized the status of the owner. Only rich ladies wore ducats. They also formed the basis of the bride's dowry. They could be used to pay for certain goods, since the cost of such decoration could reach the annual salary of the average resident of the country.

Dukach or lichman occupied a central place in the entire complex of women's jewelry. The dukach consisted of two parts: a medallion with a hole and a bow that was tied around the neck. Dukach was not a talisman, however, it was a distinctive sign of wealthy people. This is one of the most expensive Ukrainian jewelry. The basis for the medallion was gold, gilded and silver coins of various denominations. Particular attention was also paid to the bow: it could be of different colors, decorated with inserts of glass or precious stones.

As you have probably noticed, Ukrainian national jewelry is very beautiful and colorful. They can be combined with each other in any order, as our ancestors did. Breast decorations are not forgotten today, and many girls wear them not only at themed events, but also in everyday life. Thus, in stores you can often find gerdans, corals, patzorkas, and pearls. For obvious reasons, ducats and dukaches today are more like museum pieces than jewelry. If your mother or grandmother still has national necklaces, and you don’t know what to wear them with, then you need to go to any other city. The ethnic style of clothing is especially in demand today, which is what sparks interest in previously forgotten Ukrainian embroidered shirts and jewelry.

Modern jewelry amazes with its variety of styles, shapes, and materials. Among them, recently fashionable necklaces and beads with large, rough beads and other elements, assembled from several threads, attract attention. The source of their design is the ethnic jewelry of the peoples of the world, which have always been distinguished by an abundance of various symbolic components, the purpose of which had its own meaning. Basically, they were amulets that protected against evil forces, and also informed others about the status and wealth of their owner.

The beauty of natural raw materials

In the old days, when ordinary people did not have the opportunity to process the materials from which they made jewelry, their products were quite primitive, from the materials that were available to them. Nowadays there are many lovers of beads and necklaces made from natural unprocessed material, only in our time such beads are made not from simple, but from semi-precious stones and are refined so that they are pleasant to wear with modern clothes.

History of Ukrainian folk jewelry

The ancient ancestors of the Slavs created their jewelry from materials that the rich vegetation provided them with. We are still familiar with necklaces made from rowan fruits, nuts, large seeds and other forest gifts. During the Trypillian period, crafts began to develop that made it possible to make more complex multi-tiered jewelry from clay, amber, coral, and pearls.

In the Middle Ages, when coinage developed, jewelry that included numerous coins and pendants of various shapes became very popular. These jewelry were worn by women of different classes, since the metal of the coins and the design of the necklace could be very simple, or they could have a very high price, affordable only to the most noble families. Jewelry in this style attracts fashionistas even today.
Famous designers create their masterpieces from coins and pendants for wealthy customers, among whom popular artists are often found. Folk craftswomen, whose products are distinguished by originality and novelty, do not lag behind them.

With the advent of wonderful multi-colored beads, which merchants brought for our needlewomen, a monisto, woven from beads with ornaments that protect the girl from evil forces and bring happiness, became part of the Ukrainian costume. Such decoration in a more modern form can often be seen today on Ukrainian fashionistas.

Types of Ukrainian jewelry

The Ukrainian style in jewelry is represented by products that have come down to us from the ancient past and have little-known names, although the jewelry itself is worn with pleasure by Ukrainian women and others, complementing and enlivening modern clothing with them. The most interesting are hryvnias, gerdans, dukaches and kryzys, which deserve special attention.

A hryvnia is a short necklace in the form of a hoop, shaped like a crescent. The hryvnia was made of metal. It could be gold if its owner was rich enough, and for representatives of the middle class - merchants and townspeople, they made hryvnias from silver and tin. It was a beautiful, heavy, expensive decoration that emphasized the wealth of the owner, so the hryvnia became very common in the 10th century and later.

It is not often that you come across a gerdan - a very interesting and beautiful wicker, creating a Ukrainian ethnic ornament throughout the decoration, reminiscent of embroidery. Gerdan serves as a talisman thanks to the magical symbol embedded in the ornament.

Dukach was worn by Ukrainian women back in the last century, but now it is an almost forgotten decoration. It is a piece of jewelry in the form of a pendant made of a medal or a large coin on a chain. The pendant was attached to a necklace made of corals, beads, pearls, or hung around the neck on a wide ribbon on top of numerous beads. Dukachs were made from gold, silver, copper and other metals, so they were widespread in all levels of society.

Kryza is a luxurious beaded decoration in the form of a very wide collar covering the shoulders. The kryza is woven into colorful patterns. To create such a stunningly beautiful piece of jewelry requires considerable skill and a lot of work. Kryza will make even the simplest clothes elegant and attractive.