Making a dress pattern online. Construction of the base pattern
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Hello, dear readers!
When sewing simple clothes, you can do without a pattern; for clothes with complex styles, you will already need a pattern - a paper template from which fabric parts are cut out. If you choose between a finished pattern and a design drawing, I would recommend the second option.
Even if you are new to sewing, pattern making will help you quickly understand and master the principles of clothing design. In addition, the pattern is made according to your individual measurements, which means that the future product will fit well on your figure; ready-made patterns do not guarantee such a result, since each of us has our own anatomical features of the figure. And lastly, pattern making is an interesting and exciting process!
In this article, we will learn how to build a basic pattern for a dress using Tatyana Roslyakova’s method.
In the last article we learned what we will need to sew a dress pattern. Let me remind you that the design drawing is made only for half of the figure, so measurements of volume and width are recorded in half size. Below is a table in which I have written my measurements as an example. Using these standards, I will make calculations, and you must substitute your data.
Name of measurements and symbols | cm |
|---|---|
Half neck circumference (Ssh) | |
Half chest circumference (Сг) | 40,5 |
Half waist (St) | |
Half hip circumference (Sb) | 44.5 |
Back length to waist (Lts) | |
Back Width (Shs) | 16,5 |
Front length to waist (Dtp) | |
Chest Height (Vg) | |
Center of the chest (CG) | |
Shoulder Length (Dp) | |
Product length (Di) |
In addition to measurements, we will need allowances for loose fit (FO). These allowances are added to almost all measurements when drawing a structure; they are needed for freedom of movement and breathing. Depending on the silhouette of the product, the allowance for a loose fit varies in size. The allowances also differ for styles of clothing (trousers, jackets, coats, etc.), moreover, there are separate allowances for different types of fabrics. Different methods for creating patterns indicate different increases for the same silhouettes and styles, so it is very important to pay attention to the increases that are indicated in the method. But for now we are learning to build the basis of the dress, so I offer you two silhouettes: fitted and semi-fitted with the following increases:
Please note that the increases shown in the table are added entirely to half measurements. That is, if the chest girth measurement is 81 cm, then the half chest girth = 40.5 cm; for a close-fitting silhouette, an increase in loose fit of 3 cm is added to 40.5 cm, this means that the future product along the chest line will be 6 cm larger. In addition, the increase along the chest line is distributed among the pattern pieces in the following ratio:
back width - 30%
shelf width - 20%
Armhole width - 50%.
distribution of increase along the chest line
I will indicate all allowances for loose fit to these and other measurements in the formulas when creating the pattern. In this article we will build a dress with a fitted silhouette.Let's start with the drawing . It is necessary to prepare a sheet of paper, the length of which should be 10-15 cm greater than the length of the future dress. If you have never made patterns before, I would advise you to make all the drawings on graph paper in a roll, which can be purchased at an office supply store. It's a pleasure to draw on this paper! The drawings are accurate and smooth. Dress length . In the upper left corner of a sheet of paper, draw a right angle with its vertex at point P, departing 5 cm from the top edge. From point P down in a straight line we put aside a value equal to the length of the dress and put a point H (segment PH = Di = 85 cm).
- the size of the front dart opening = 0.25 of the total dart opening (13.5 x 0.25 = 3.4 cm),
- side dart opening size = 0.45 of the total opening (13.5 x 0.45 = 6 cm),
- back tuck opening size = 0.3 of the total opening (13.5 x 0.3 = 4.1 cm)
Shelf
- front part of the product
Neck
- neckline
Armhole
- cutout for sleeves (cut from shoulder to side seams to connect sleeves to bodice)
Dart
- excess fabric tucked into the seam. Using darts, the necessary shapes are given to the product.
In addition to the dress, you can build.
Do you want to learn to sew? SO IT'S TIME TO TAKE THIS NEW FRONTIER. And master the wisdom of sewing using real adult patterns yourself, with your own hands and your own brains.
We will draw the base pattern ourselves - in a new, easy way (I spent more than one week creating this lightweight method for creating a base pattern). And then we will sew a bunch of all kinds of dresses, tops and tunics.
No - I won’t give you a single ready-made pattern - I’m not Madame Burda. I am Madame Klishevskaya.))) And the main harmfulness of my character is... That I will make your head work and give birth to bright and clear discoveries in the field of sewing. The easiest and most understandable of all types of art. Believe me, this is true.
Yes - sewing yourself is very easy and simple. Right from scratch you will get more and more beautiful and well-tailored things.
Moreover, you will do everything yourself, without a state of hypnosis, but in a sober mind and clear memory. YOU will DO it - moreover, you will UNDERSTAND what exactly you are doing.
I will tell you the secrets that I know. Moreover, I will teach you to discover more and more secrets of the world of sewing and clothing design.
I will not lead you (blind and stupid) by the hand in the chaos of letters and numbers denoting the intricacy of numerous lines of the design drawing. NO, I WILL NOT TAKE YOU HERE:
Well, you must admit, one such picture can instill fear and make a girl who doubts her own abilities really, really wants to sew a dress- But I wasn’t very good with geometry and drawing during my school years. Even I, who adore both of these school subjects, beat around the bush for several years, not daring to start delving into the construction of such a drawing: “How long will it take to draw something like this, and after all, everything must be calculated correctly and not get confused in the letters...”.
And, nevertheless, today we will draw a pattern.
We will draw a base pattern (you see a piece of it from above.))))
But - don’t be afraid - we will create our pattern a little differently. Away from the engineering design method - and closer to human understanding.
We will draw one for you - just one- pattern.
And then from it we will create more and more new dress models. And it will be very easy and simple.
- No confusing formulas
- No confusing calculations.
- And without the letter-number cobweb.
So how? Have I already alleviated some of your concerns?
I'll relax now - we won't start drawing right now. First, we'll take a nice stroll through the pattern. The purpose of the walk is to get to know and become friends with the pattern and remove the last doubt that you can sew any dress.
So... what is a pattern - the basis?
To put it figuratively, this is a cast of your body. This is your individual imprint. Any item sewn according to YOUR base pattern will fit YOUR figure perfectly.
Yes, you heard right - ANY THING can be sewn on the basis one single pattern. All dress models are born, modeled, and sewn from one source - this is the base pattern.
I will now prove it to you with an example. Even with three examples - in the form of photos and pictures.
Here is the first photo (below). Our pattern base is essentially your sheath dress (the one that fits your body perfectly). Dress made by yours pattern base, will follow all the curves your his bodies. This simple sheath dress is sewn using a regular base pattern. You see, it’s like a plaster cast of a girl’s figure.
And today, having drawn the base pattern, you can safely cut it on the fabric - and you will get a dress like this. The only thing you can change is the neckline - giving it the shape that suits your face shape.
All other (any kind) dress models are just a modification of a sheath dress - fantasies on a free theme.
That's how it works in the fashion world.
One day a fashion designer thought...“What if the bodice of the dress at the top is held on the shoulders by a round yoke (yellow outlines - figure below), and the bodice itself is made in the form of overlapping intersecting triangles (red outlines - figure below). The result is what we see in the photo below.
Beautiful? Beautiful.
What did the fashion designer base his fantasies on? Based on a pattern.
And you can come up with something of your own. We women have just a lot of imagination.
And another fashion designer thought: “What if you give the sheath dress a looser cut - make it wider. And make the shoulder line longer so that it hangs over the arm.” And as a result, a new model is born (photo below) - also very beautiful. And it's very simple.
You can do this too. If you will UNDERSTAND what the base pattern consists of. And by what laws does it exist?
That is why I don’t want to stupidly give you instructions on creating a base pattern (like “draw a line from point P6 to point P5 and mark the place where it intersects with line X with the next point...” - ugh!).
I want to awaken you bitch. I want you to feel the pattern, to know its soul. Haven't learned to see what a simple drawing hides behind a photograph of any dress, even an intricately tailored one.
Therefore, for the next 30 minutes we will not draw anything - we will walk through the pattern itself. Let's get acquainted with all its elements - let's find out what each line serves, and why it is located exactly here and drawn exactly like that..
After such an “educational walk” you will feel a joyful clarity of understanding of everything, everything, everything. It's as if you've already drawn basic patterns many times. And you will take up the drawing with the feeling that this is a couple of trifles. Ha! Business!
As the sage said: “We are afraid only of what we cannot understand and explain logically. But as soon as the thing that frightens us becomes clear to us, it ceases to cause us fear.”
So let’s go and tame this “terrible beast” - the base pattern. Let's tame and draw in 20 minutes. Yes, yes, in 20 minutes - because after a walk - the pattern drawing will seem to you an old and familiar simple drawing - like a grid for playing tic-tac-toe.
Where does the base pattern come from?
So where does the base pattern come from - usually it is obtained from the following drawing:
The drawing contains half of the back part + half of the front part.
We will also draw a similar drawing with you - only more simple and understandable.
And what these halves are needed for, and where to use them - now I will clearly show everything.
Here (!) I dug up a wonderful sample - below - in the photograph of a black and white dress, our halves are very clearly visible - both the back half and the front half. So to speak - clearly and understandably.
Yes, in the Potnovian language the halves are called “shelves”. Today we will draw these same front and back shelves. But first, let’s take a closer look at what elements each shelf consists of. And most importantly, I will tell you why each element is needed and what it serves.
To make everything as clear as possible, I will illustrate each of the elements both in pictures and in photographs of real dress models.
First, let's get acquainted with two incomprehensible words: DOT And ARMHOLE.
Of course you may know them. Or maybe not. My job is to introduce you.
So, meet – PROYMA.
When drawing a base pattern, you will create exactly that bend and size armhole that suits you – when the armhole does not pull or dig into your arm.
That is, the pattern base contains minimum armhole size allowed. You can model the armhole to your taste, in any configuration. But your fantasy armhole should not be smaller than on the base pattern. That is, the armhole is based on a pattern - These are the boundaries beyond which your imagination should not cross.
Your model armhole can be as large as you like - but it cannot be smaller than on the base pattern. More - yes, less - no - otherwise it will dig into the armpit. This is the rule in modeling designer armholes.
Now let's get acquainted with the darts.
DOTS ON THE BACK– shoulder dart + waist dart.
In the picture above, I wrote everything about the back darts - and in the photo of the dress you can find 2 waist darts - one to the right of the zipper, the other to the left of the zipper.
But you don’t see the shoulder dart on this dress. And many dresses don’t have it either. Because for convenience and beauty, this dart is moved from the middle of the shoulder to the zipper. That is, the excess fabric is not pinched at the middle of the shoulder and is not sewn inside the dart. And the extra fabric cut in the form of a corner at the edge of the shelf, where the zipper is sewn in..
Also, darts are not necessary if you sew from stretch fabric - it itself follows the curves of your body and shrinks both in the shoulder and waist areas.
Let's get to know each other next... DARTS ON HALF FRONT.
Oh, I could write a whole poem about her.
I spent a long time wondering how to explain more clearly - why it is needed and by what laws it lives. I thought and thought... and came up with an idea.
The fact is that a woman has breasts.))) That is, from the front, an adult girl is no longer flat. This means that the dress should be convex in the chest area. The dart on the front shoulder gives the dress that same bulge in the bust area. Now I’ll show you everything in pictures. How does this happen.
For example, we have a flat piece of fabric, but we need to make a convex piece out of it. To do this, you need to make a tuck on it. For example, this flat circle made of cardboard will now become convex with the help of a dart.
And here's how a bust dart creates a bulge on the front detail
You will notice that the top of the convexity (that is, the peak of our round pyramid) is at the tip of the dart. Pay attention to this. Because when we draw the bust dart, the point of our dart will be at the top of the chest(where the nipple or bra cup is usually located).
Remember that sometimes you tried on a dress in your size in a store, which somehow strangely skewed on the chest - this is because the dart in the dress with its point was directed by the tops of your chest. So the breasts did not fit perfectly into the bulge of the dress. This product was not cut at the factory to suit your breast shape.
But that is not all,
what I want to say about the chest dart.
The fact is that in almost all dresses this chest dart is located not on the shoulder- A on the side just below the armpit. This is done for beauty. The dart on the shoulder catches the eye more, but on the side, and even covered by the hand, it is not noticeable.
When creating a base pattern, we draw a chest dart on the shoulder only because it is more convenient to draw there from the point of view of constructing a drawing.
And after the drawing of the base pattern is ready, we very easily and simply transfer the dart from the shoulder area to the armpit area. Don’t think that you need to make new drawings for this. Nope, everything is simple here - like opening a carton of milk - one minute and that’s it.
Here, in the picture below I schematically depicted transferring the bust dart from the shoulder to the side seam under the arm.
Well, do you already feel how wiser you have become in these 15 minutes?)))
It's only the beginning…
We continue our walk through the pattern and now get acquainted with the lines. Horizontal lines
CHEST LINE
The first acquaintance is the chest line. (It’s a beautiful dress, isn’t it? We’ll make it for you. Don’t even hesitate)
The bust line is the most remarkable line on the pattern. It is so convenient to focus on it when drawing a base pattern because:
- We know that we finish drawing the back waist dart at the bust line.
- We know that we finish drawing the front waist dart not reaching 4 cm from the chest line.
- We know that the shoulder dart is in the front - we finish drawing it at the chest line.
- We know that the lower edges of the armholes also follow the bust line.
Well, no, of course, you don’t know that yet. I will give all these simple rules when we start drawing. And now I just want you to know that when drawing many elements of a pattern, you can simply focus on the chest line (and there is no need to painstakingly put down these letter-number dots).
WAISTLINE
We focus on this line when we draw waist darts - both on the front and back parts. The widest point of the dart is located exactly at the waist line.
HIPS LINE
Do you know why drawing the base pattern is easy and simple? Now you will understand.
WHY DRAWING A BASE PATTERN IS EASY AND SIMPLE
I want to draw your attention to 2 wonderful points.
Great moment #1 – the entire pattern is created inside a rectangle (I filled it with pink to make it clear)
Remarkable moment #2 – the most labor-intensive part is drawing the top part of the pattern – where the neckline is, and the shoulder line, and the darts, and the armholes.
And to make it mentally easier for you to draw, I divided the upper part of the pattern into three simple zones. In each zone we will draw 2-3 simple lines - and that’s it - the upper part is ready.
As you can see, if you divide a seemingly difficult job into 3 parts, each of the 3 parts themselves does not seem difficult. As a result, you won’t notice how everything has already been drawn.
It's simple– first we draw a large rectangle, then we divide its upper part into three zones. In each zone we draw 2-3 lines. And all that remains is to go down and draw the waist darts and the hip line. Ha! Business!
Do you feel now how easy it is? Draw your first real pattern base.
Well then let's get started. And we'll draw it all in 20 minutes. Set the timer.
WE START DRAWING THE BASE PATTERN - TAKE MEASUREMENTS.
WE TAKE MEASUREMENTS
Height of the future product (from the cervical vertebra to the bottom of the hem of the dress)
Half chest – (bust circumference divided by 2)
Chest center measurement – (distance between the tops of the breasts) in your regular bra.
Back width– (at the level of the middle of the shoulder blades – from hand to hand)
Back lengths(from cervical vertebra to waist)
Shoulder length– (from the lateral point at the base of the neck – to the shoulder joint)
Half neck circumference– (neck circumference divided by 2) the tape passes at the base of the neck without squeezing it
Half hip circumference – (hip circumference divided by 2)
Half waist – (waist circumference divided by 2)
We know how to remove all these girths of the chest, waist, hips and neck.
And to take other measurements, I give you an approximate picture below:
STEP ONE- draw a rectangle.
Rectangle height – this is the height of the future product from the cervical vertebra to the bottom of the future dress
Rectangle width – half chest circumference + a few cm for a loose fit.
How many of these same centimeters need to be added for a free fit, now we’ll figure it out.
Conventionally, there are 4 degrees of fit for a sheath dress:
- Tight-fitting dress silhouette
- Adjacent silhouette
- Semi-fitting silhouette
- Straight silhouette
If you need close-fitting silhouette – then choose the fabric that has elastic fibers, that is, it stretches a little (not like a stretch, but slightly) – and then the FREEDOM OF FITTING MAY BE OBSERVED AT ALL – that is, the width of the pattern will be equal to the half-circumference of your chest.
If you are sewing a dress from ordinary non-stretch fabric, then it will not be possible to completely stick it to the curves of your body - and the most we can do is cut it out adjacent silhouette . AND THEN THE INCREASE FOR FREEDOM OF FITTING WILL BE 3 CM. These three centimeters will need to be evenly distributed between the back area, armhole area and chest area. That is, when we now divide the pattern into 3 zones - and we calculate and measure their width - then we will simply add an additional 1 cm to the width of each zone - and that’s all.
If you need a dress semi-adjacent silhouette (one that hides the “shortcomings” of the figure) – then the FREEDOM OF FITTING ALLOWANCE will be 4-5 cm. (1 cm will go to the back area, 1.5 cm to the armhole area, the rest automatically goes to the chest area.
And if we need a basic pattern for a dress straight silhouette - then add 6-7 cm.
STEP TWO –We zone the upper part of the rectangle into three zones: back zone, armhole zone, chest zone.
The width of the back area is the measurement of the width of the back divided by 2
The width of the armhole area is the half-bust circumference: 4 + 2 cm
The width of the chest area is what remains.
ATTENTION (!!!) If you made an allowance for freedom of fit at the very beginning, do not forget to add part of this allowance to each zone (as I said just above in the article).
STEP THREE – in the back area we draw 2 lines – neck line + shoulder line.
Neck line - lies on the rectangle eand only its extreme tip is raised upward.
What you need to know:
neck width = 1/3 half-circumference. neck + 0.5 cm
height of the neck edge above the rectangle = 1/10 of the half-circumference of the neck + 0.8 cm
What do we have to do:
This means dividing the half-circumference of the neck by 3 and adding 0.5 cm. We measure this distance on the top line to the left. We found the width of the neck and marked it with a dot.
Now this point needs to be raised higher above the rectangle. Divide the half-circumference of the neck by 10 + 0.8 cm - and raise the point by the resulting figure.
We have all found the edge of the neckline - now we need to draw a smooth corner. This can be done simply by hand.
Shoulder line
it goes slightly obliquely - from the edge of the neckline and slightly extends beyond the border of the back area.
What you need to know:
Shoulder line length = shoulder length measurement + 1.6 cm for dart.
The slope of the shoulder line - for normal shoulders 2.5 (for tall shoulders 1.5 cm, for sloping ones 3.5 cm) - the level of slope is noted on the side line of the back area (measured from top to bottom).
What do we have to do.
We figured out what type our shoulders are. We measured the required value on the side line of the back area (2.5, 1.5 or 3.5)
Draw a line from the edge of the neck to the marked level of inclination.
And on this line we measure the shoulder length + 1.6 cm for the dart. As a result, the line lengthened slightly and went beyond the back area.
Back dart:
What you need to know:
The dart is located 4 cm from the edge of the neckline
The depth of the dart is 6 cm (that is, it goes down 6 cm)
The dart width is always 1.6 cm
The first side of the dart is lowered perpendicularly, and the second is tilted to the side.
Both sides of the dart are equal in length, that is, equal to 6 cm
What do we have to do(see the picture) - we measured 4 cm from the edge of the neckline (put a bold dot) and measured even further 1.6 cm for the dart (put a dot) - these are the edges of our dart.
Now we lowered the perpendicular down by 6 cm, then went up to the other edge of the dart. Moreover, they also rose exactly 6 cm. Yes, yes, we will rise a little above the shoulder line. But it is important for us that the sides of the dart are the same length - we will sew them together (close the dart) - and they must match in length. If they do not match in length, the shoulder line will turn out broken after closing the dart.
STEP FOUR– we find the chest line and in the armhole area we draw a back armhole and a front armhole.
Back armhole line
What you need to know:
The armhole line goes down evenly to the chest line.
And the height of the back armhole is always = 1/4 of the half-circumference of the chest + 7 cm
The extreme (axillary) point of the armhole line is located exactly in the middle of the armhole area (on the chest line).
The upper 2/3 of the armhole height goes almost exactly down
The lower 1/3 of its height + 2 cm - the armhole bends towards the middle point of the armhole zone.
Drawing the chest line
Find the height of the armhole. It is equal to = half chest circumference: 4 + 7 cm. An armhole of exactly this height will be optimal for your arm and will not cut into your armpit or pull on your shoulder.
We found this value - and now we measure this distance down from the edge of the shoulder. We measured and set a point.
We have now found not only the lower edge of the armhole - we have now automatically found the level of the chest line. This very important line can only be found in this way. Its level is always the size of the armhole, measured down from the shoulder.
And to draw the chest line exactly horizontally. We need to measure the distance from this point to the top edge of the square of our pattern with a centimeter. And then measure the resulting value on both sides of the pattern - slap the points - and connect them with a horizontal straight line.
Draw a line for the back armhole.
Now we will draw the armhole line of the back.
The lower extreme (axillary) point of the armhole is always located in the middle of the armhole area on the chest line. We measured the armhole area with a centimeter - found the middle - slapped the dot.
The armhole line starts from the edge of the shoulder, goes down and begins to bend to the side only at 1/3 of its height + 2 cm. We measure this distance from the chest line. That is, the height of the armhole: 3 + 2 cm = the distance from the chest line, where the armhole begins its bend towards the axillary point. But to be honest, I don’t always remember about these extra 2 cm and always draw the bend by eye, by hand - I divide it by about 1/3 and start rounding it off from there.
Front armhole line
What you need to know:
Front armhole height = half chest circumference: 4 + 5 cm
The armhole has 2 bends:
The upper bend is deflected away from the border of the armhole line by 1/10 half chest measurement
Bottom curve - starts at 1/3 of the armhole height from the chest line
What do we have to do:
Find the level of the upper bend of the armhole - half chest circumference: 4 + 5 cm - spank the point. Now this point must be moved to the left by a distance equal to = half chest circumference: 10.
Now we find the level of bend of the armhole to the armpit - the height of the armhole: 3. We measure this distance on the side line of the armhole area - spank the point.
And we also have that same axillary point. We get only three points. Now through these three points we draw a smooth armhole line.
STEP FIVE– DRAW THE LINES OF THE CHEST AREA (neck, shoulder and chest dart)
Neck line
What you need to know:
The width of the front neckline is the same as the back neckline = half neck circumference: 3 + 0.5 cm
Neck depth = half neck circumference: 10 + 2 cm
Neck edge height measured from the chest line and equal to = half chest circumference: 2 + 3.5 (or + 2 cm for girls)
The diagonal depth of the neck is equal to = 1/3 half-circumference of the neck + 1 cm
What do we have to do:
We find neck width(half neck circumference: 3 + 0.5 cm) - measure it from the corner of the pattern to the left - spank the point.
We find neck depth(half neck circumference: 10 + 2 cm) - measure it from the corner of the pattern down - spank the point.
Now raise the edge of the neck– it should be above the chest line by a distance equal to (half chest circumference: 2 + 3.5 cm (or for girls + 2 cm).
We measure this distance upward from the chest line - and raise the edge of the neckline to this level.
Now, to make it more convenient for us to draw the correct rounded bend of our neckline line, we measure the diagonal size of our neckline. It is measured with a measuring tape from the imaginary intersection of the continuation of the edge of the pattern and the level of the top point of the neck (light green lines in the figure).
Front shoulder line
– you don’t need to know anything. Everything here is generally simple - we connect the edge of the front neckline and the upper edge of the front armhole - the gray line in the figure.
Bust dart.
What you need to know:
The point of the chest dart reaches the bust line.
The point of the bust dart should line up exactly with the top of the bust (this is where measuring the center of the bust comes in handy).
The width of the dart is determined empirically, which is described below.
What do we have to do:
We find the top of the chest on our pattern. To do this, measure on the chest line from the right edge of the pattern half the chest center measurement + 1 cm. Only half, because we only have half of the front front on the pattern.
We put a point - and from it we draw a perpendicular straight line straight up - to the shoulder line. Now we have just determined the location of the chest dart, so that its tip is directed exactly to the top of our chest. The breasts will fit perfectly into the bulge of the dress - without distortion.
Now we need to draw the second side of the dart - BUT for this we need to know its width.
There are no formulas here. The width of the dart is determined experimentally. For this we need
1.) Know the measurement of your shoulder length (we took this measurement at the very beginning)
2.) Measure the length of the shoulder line on the pattern with a centimeter.
3.) Compare these values with each other.
4.) The difference in size will be the width of our dart. For flat-chested children, this difference is zero, which means the width of the dart is zero. That is, she is not there. Well, that’s right, little girls don’t even have breasts - why do they need a dart.
5.) We measure the found width to the left of the edge of the dart. Mark it with a dot. And from this second point we draw a line down to the tip of our dart. Oops! And the tuck is almost ready.
6.) All that remains is to make both sides of the dart the same in length. We measure the first side of the dart. And we measure the same distance on the other side of the dart. So that they are the same and coincide with each other when we close this dart.
7.) The shoulder line turned out to be a little broken (raised after the dart). But that's how it should be. After closing the dart, it will lower and be perfectly level.
WE ARE FINISHED WITH THE TOP PART OF THE PATTERN. YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
It remains to separate the back shelf from the waist shelf. Then find the waist line and the hip line. At the waist line, draw a side bend and 2 waist darts (on the back and front). At the hip line, draw an extension of the hem to the sides.
Let's quickly do this and that's it - we can open a bar with drinks and celebrate this matter.
Well, let's get started...
STEP SIX – divide the pattern into a back flap and a front flap – that is, into the right and left sides.
What you need to know:
The side seam line divides the pattern into a back flap and a front flap.
The side seam line does not run in the middle, but shifts towards the back (you need to divide the width of the armhole area into 3 equal parts with two points - and just through the left point, which is closer to the back) and the side line will pass)
What do we have to do:
We measure the width of the armhole zone. We divide it into 3 identical segments - two points. And through the left point we draw a vertical line. This will be the side line of our shelves (back and front).
STEP SEVEN – draw the waist line and hip line.
What you need to know.
The waist line is located below the cervical vertebra at a distance equal to the measurement of the length of the back.
The hip line is below the waist line at a distance equal to half the back length measurement.
The waist line and the hip line have a slight deflection (1.5 cm) on the front half (this deflection is necessary for the roundness of the tummy, which even the thinnest people have).
What do we have to do.
We measure the level of the waist line - from the top of the pattern down we measure back length measure- we draw a line.
We measure the level of the hip line - from the waist line we measure down half the back length measurement- we draw a line.
On the right side of the pattern, mark the points that are 1.5 cm below the lines - bend the line to this point (as shown in the figure).
STEP EIGHT – draw the side curves of the front and back + waist darts of the front and back.
Calculate the width of darts and side bends
What you need to know:
Width of side front curve = width of side back curve = width of back waist dart = width of front waist dart. That is, in the process of fitting the dress, we remove the same amount of excess fabric in the side bends and darts.
To find out the width of a dart or bend. You need to know the amount of excess fabric, the same one that should be trimmed in the side bend or hidden in a dart. And divide this total amount of excess fabric by 4 (each of these 4 pieces will be tucked away in its own dart or in its own side bend). Means…
Dart width (or side fold) = amount of excess fabric: 4
Amount of excess fabric = pattern width minus waist circumference.
It’s a little confusing, but now I’ll show everything with a specific example….
What do we have to do.
1.) We know the width of the pattern (remember it is equal to half chest circumference + 6 cm)
2.) We know the half-waist circumference (we took measurements at the very beginning)
3.) Subtract the waist circumference from the width of the pattern and subtract an additional 2 cm.
4.) The resulting figure is the amount of excess fabric that will go into the side bend or into the darts.
5.) Width of one dart (or side bend) = amount of excess fabric: 4.
For example, the width of my pattern is 52 cm, and my waist circumference is 36 cm.
The amount of excess fabric in the waist area will be 52 – 36 – 2 = 14 cm.
This is exactly the amount of fabric that should be partially trimmed on the side bend of my pattern, and partially hidden inside the front and back darts.
The pattern has 2 bends (at the side front and at the side back) and 2 darts (one at the front, one at the back).
This means that my excess of 14 cm should be evenly distributed between all these four elements. That is, 14 cm: 4 = 3.5 cm.
That is, 3.5 cm will be the width of the back dart + 3.5 cm will be the width of the front dart + 3.5 cm will go into the bend of the side line of the back + 3.5 cm will go into the side bend of the front line.
Now it’s clear how to find out the width of darts and bends.
We can draw the side curves right away - we measure one size at a time (in my case, 3.5 cm) on both sides of the midline:
And in order to draw waist darts on the back and front, you also need find their correct location on the pattern.
Draw the waist dart of the back.
What you need to know:
The central axis of the back waist dart runs through the middle of the back area. That is, it is located from the left edge of the pattern at a distance equal to = back width measurement: 4
The upper top of the back waist dart is located exactly on the bust line (where the axis intersects this line)
The lower top of the back waist dart does not reach the hip line by 4 cm.
What do we have to do:
First, let's draw the center line of the dart - that is, a straight line that will mark the center of the dart. The tops of the dart will be located on this center line.
The center line of the back waist dart runs exactly in the middle of the back area.
That is, you can simply measure the width of the backrest area and find its middle.
Or measure from the edge of the shelf to the right an amount equal to = back width measurement: 4.
Finding the tops (sharp tips) of the dart: The upper peak lies on the bust line, where the axis of the dart intersects it. The lower one lies on the axis, at a distance of 4 cm from the hip line.
Now we draw the dart: on the waist line on both sides of the axis, measure half the width of the dart. And from these points we draw lines to the top of the dart and to the bottom of the dart.
Waist front dart.
What you need to know:
The front waist dart lies on the same axis as the bust dart. That is, the axis of the dart is also located at a distance equal to = half the chest center measurement + 1 cm
The tops of the waistline are located on the line of its axis: the top one does not reach 4 cm to the chest line, the lower top does not reach 4 cm to the hip line.
What we do:
Find the axis of the front waist dart - either continue down the line of the chest dart, or measure from the right edge of the pattern a distance equal to = half the measurement of the center of the chest + 1 cm.
We measure this distance along the chest line and along the hip line - put the dots together and get the axis of the dart.
On the axis we mark the tops of the front waist dart - the top top does not reach 4 cm to the chest line, the bottom top does not reach 4 cm to the hip line.
On the waist line on both sides of the axis, measure half the width of the dart - and from these points we draw lines down and up to the tops of the dart.
STEP NINE – draw the expansion in the hip area and the smooth roundness of the bottom of the product.
What you need to know:
Hem the dress expands in the hip line area by 1.5 cm.
And if you want a slightly widened hem, then also make an extension on the bottom line of the product another additional 1.5 cm(that is, in total the bottom hem will expand by 3 cm).
All the same, when you try it on, you will see the optimal width of the hem and you yourself will sew the side seam under the hip line if you want to narrow the hem.
The bottom of the product also has a slight convexity (1.5 cm) towards the edge of the front and back flanges.
What we do:
On the line we measure 1.5 cm on both sides from the side line of the shelves (put dots).
On the bottom line of the pattern, we also measure 1.5 cm in both directions (or 3 cm if we want a slightly wider hem)
We connect these points with a smooth line, drawing the side lines of the front and back hems. The side lines of the front and back hemlines are drawn (as you noticed) overlapping each other - crossing each other. Then, making copies from the base pattern, we cut out the back shelf separately, the front shelf separately, that is, we will separate these halves, leaving each of them its own outline of the hem.
Now for the curved line of the bottom of the product - we draw points 1.5 cm lower than the bottom corners of the pattern. We connect these points with smooth lines to the extreme side points of the hem.
Done, fellow girls!!! We, with a sober mind and memory, have just made a basic pattern!!! And at the same time, they didn’t even turn off their brains even once and there were no abbreviations with letters and numbers.
Moreover, you didn’t just draw at my direction, but you understood what was hidden behind each line. And this little thing will come in handy when modeling. And you and I will moderate – a lot and with pleasure and also with full awareness of what is being done and why.
Learn to think and turn on your brain, and you will be able to model what you like without waiting for my article-lessons.
And we will start sewing according to the base pattern of the TOP.
You might ask, “Hey, why not just dresses?” I give the answer to this question in the first article of the series “Sew tops and T-shirts - quickly and easily.” So to be continued))) Let's go....
Happy sewing!
Olga Klishevskaya, especially for the “Women's Conversations” website.
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When sewing simple clothes, you can do without a pattern; for clothes with complex styles, you will already need a pattern - a paper template from which fabric parts are cut out. If you choose between a finished pattern and a design drawing, I would recommend the second option.
Modeling a basic dress pattern. Step-by-step construction of a pattern
Even if you are new to sewing, pattern making will help you quickly understand and master the principles of clothing design. In addition, the pattern is made according to your individual measurements, which means that the future product will fit well on your figure; ready-made patterns do not guarantee such a result, since each of us has our own anatomical features of the figure. And lastly, pattern making is an interesting and exciting process!
In this article, we will learn how to model a basic pattern for a dress using Tatyana Roslyakova’s method. In the last article we learned what we will need to sew a dress pattern. Let me remind you that the design drawing is made only for half of the figure, so measurements of volume and width are recorded in half size.
In addition to measurements, we will need allowances for loose fit (FO). These allowances are added to almost all measurements when drawing a structure; they are needed for freedom of movement and breathing. Depending on the silhouette of the product, the allowance for a loose fit varies in size. The allowances also differ for styles of clothing (trousers, jackets, coats, etc.), moreover, there are separate allowances for different types of fabrics. Different methods for creating patterns indicate different increases for the same silhouettes and styles, so it is very important to pay attention to the increases that are indicated in the method. But for now we are learning how to build the basis of a dress, so I offer you several silhouettes:
INCREMENTS FOR A LOOSE FITTING AROUND THE CHEST, WAIST, HIPS
INCREASES FOR LOOSE FITTING ON THE BACK AND SHELF AREAS
INCREASES TO THE LENGTH OF THE BACK TO THE WAIST, TO THE DEPTH OF THE ARMROOM, TO THE WIDTH OF THE NECK
EXTRAS FOR LOOSE FITTING TO SHOULDER CIRCUMSTANCE
Explanations for the tables:
- PG – increase along the chest line
- Fri – increase along the waistline
- Pb – increase along the hips
- Pshs – increase in back width
- Pshp – increase in floor width
- Pspr – increase in armhole freedom
- Pop – increase in shoulder circumference
- Pshgor - increase in neck width
- Pdts – increase in the length of the back to the waist
- Pdtp - increase in the length of the front to the waist
- Pvpk – oblique increase in shoulder height
Below is a list in which I have written my measurements as an example. Using these standards, I will make calculations, and you must substitute your data.
- Half neck circumference (Ssh) - 15 cm
- Half chest circumference (Cg) - 40.5 cm
- Half waist circumference (St) - 29 cm
- Half hip circumference (Sb) - 44.5 cm
- Back length to waist (Lts) - 40 cm
- Back width (W) - 16.5 cm
- Front length to waist (Dtp) - 42 cm
- Chest height (Bg) - 25 cm
- Center of the chest (CG) - 9 cm
- Shoulder length (L) - 13 cm
- Product length (Di) - 85 cm
I will indicate all allowances for loose fit to these and other measurements in the formulas when creating the pattern. In this article we will build a dress with a fitted silhouette.
Modeling a basic dress pattern. Step-by-step construction of a pattern
Let's start with the drawing
It is necessary to prepare a sheet of paper, the length of which should be 10-15 cm greater than the length of the future dress. If you have never made patterns before, I would advise you to make all the drawings on graph paper in a roll, which can be purchased at an office supply store. It's a pleasure to draw on this paper! The drawings are accurate and smooth.
Dress length. In the upper left corner of a sheet of paper, draw a right angle with its vertex at point P, departing 5 cm from the top edge. From point P down in a straight line we put aside a value equal to the length of the dress and put a point H (segment PH = Di = 85 cm).
Dress width. From point P to the right, we will set aside the half-circumference of the chest + 3 cm (increase for a loose fit), and put point P1 (segment PP1 = Cr + CO = 40.5 + 3 = 43.5 cm). From point H to the right, we will set aside a segment equal to PP1 and place point H1 (segment HH1 = PP1 = 43.5 cm). Connect points P1 and H1
Waistline. From point P downwards, we put the measurement of the length of the back to the waist + 0.5 cm and set point T (RT = Dts + CO = 40 + 0.5 = 40.5 cm). From point T to the right we draw a straight line until it intersects with straight line P1H1 and denotes the intersection point as T1.
Hip line. From point T downwards, we will set aside 1/2 of the measurement of the length of the back to the waist and put point B (TB=1/2Dts=40:2=20cm). From point B to the right we draw a straight line until it intersects with straight line Р1Н1, and we denote the intersection point as B1.
Back width. From point P to the right, set aside the width of the back + 0.9 cm and place point P2 (PP2 = Шс+СО=16.5+0.9=17.4 cm). From this point we draw down a straight line of arbitrary length
Armhole width. From point P2 we will set aside 1/4 of the half-circumference of the chest + 1.5 cm and place point P3 (P2P3 = 1/4Cr + CO = 40.5: 4 + 1.5 = 11.6 cm). Attention! The segment P2P3 is the width of the armhole, therefore, you need to select the resulting value of this segment for yourself; in the future we will use this value. Draw a straight line of arbitrary length down from point P3.
Back neck cut. From point P to the right we will set aside 1/3 of the neck half-girth measurement + 0.5 cm and place point P4 (PP4=1/3Сш+СО=15:3+0.5=5.5 cm). From point P4 up, we will set aside 1/10 of the half-circumference of the neck + 0.8 cm and put P5 (P4P5=1/10Сш+СО=15:10+0.8=2.3cm). Divide the angle with the vertex P4 in half and draw a straight line, on this straight line we will set aside 1/10 of the half-circumference of the neck - 0.3 cm and place point P6 (P4P6 = 1/10Сш-СО = 15:10-0.3 = 1.2 cm). Let's connect points P, P6 and P5 with a smooth line, and the angle at point P should be straight.
Shoulder section of the back. From P2 we will set aside 2.5 cm for normal shoulders, 3.5 cm for sloping shoulders, 1.5 cm for high ones and put point P. Connect points P5 and P, and on this straight line we will set aside the length of the shoulder + 2 cm for the dart from P5 and put P1 ( Р5П1=Дп+2cm=13+2=15cm). Again, on this line from point P5 we will set aside 4cm and place point O (P5O=4cm). Down from point O we will set aside 8cm and place point O1 (ОО1=8cm). To the right of point O, set aside 2 cm and place point O2 (OO2 = 2 cm). Let's connect points O1 and O2, on the resulting straight line from point O1 we will set aside 8 cm at the top and place point O3 (O1O3 = 8cm). Now let's connect points O3 and P1.
Armhole depth. From P downwards we will set aside 1/4 of the half-circumference of the chest plus 7cm (for stooped figures plus 7.5cm, for kinky figures plus 6.5cm) and put point G (PG=1/4Cr+CO=40.5:4+7.5= 17.6 cm). Through point G we draw a straight line to the intersection with straight line РН, denoting the point of intersection G1, to straight line Р1Н1, denoting the point of intersection G3, and the point of intersection with the straight line from point P3 we denote G2.
Back armhole cut. From G upwards we will set aside 1/3 of the distance PG + 2cm and put P2 (GP2=1/3PG+CO=17.6:3+2=7.8cm). Divide the angle at point G in half and set aside 1/10 of the armhole width + 1.5 cm and put point P3 (GP3 = 1/10Shpr + CO = 11.6:10 + 1.5 = 2.6 cm) divide line GG2 in half and put G4. Connect points P1, P2, P3 and G4 with a smooth line.
Front armhole cut. From G2 upward we will set aside 1/4 of the half-circumference of the chest + 5 cm (for stooped figures + 4.5 cm, for kinky figures + 5.5 cm) and put P4 (G2P4 = 1/4Cr + CO = 40.5: 4 + 4.5 = 14, 6cm). From P4 to the left we will set aside 1/10 of the half-circumference of the chest and put P5 (P4P5=1/10Сг=40.5:10=4cm). From G2 up, we will set aside 1/3 of the segment G2P4 and put P6 (G2P6 = 1/3G2P4 = 14.6:3 = 4.8 cm). Let's connect points P5 and P6 with a dotted line and divide them in half; set aside 1 cm from the division point to the right at a right angle. Divide the angle at point G2 in half and set aside 1/10 of the armhole width + 0.8 cm and mark point P7 (G2P7=1/10Shpr+CO=11.6:10+0.8=1.9). Let's connect points P5,1,P6,P7, and G4 with a smooth line.
Shelf neck cut. From G3 up, we will set aside 1/2 of the half-circumference of the chest + 1.5 cm (for stooped figures + 1 cm, for kinky figures + 2 cm) and put P7 (G3P7 = 1/2Cr + CO = 40.5: 2 + 1 = 21.2 cm). From G2 we will set aside the same amount upward and place point P8 (G2P8=G3P7=21.2cm). Connect points P7 and P8. Now from point P7 to the left we will set aside 1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck + 0.5 cm and put P9 (P7Р9=1/3Сш+СО=15:3+0.5=5.5cm). Down from point P7 we will set aside 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck + 2cm and place point P10 (P7P10-1/3Сш+СО=15:3+2=7cm). Let's connect points P9 and P10, and divide the resulting segment in half. From point P7 we draw a straight line through the division point of the segment P9P10, and on this straight line we set aside 1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck + 1cm and place point P11 (P7P11=1/3Сш+СО=15:3+1=6cm). Let's connect points P9, P11, P10 with a smooth line, maintaining a right angle at point P10.
Shoulder section of the front and breast dart line. From G3 to the left, set aside the measurement of the center of the chest and place G6 (G3G6=Cg=9cm). From G6 we will draw a line upward until it intersects with the line P7P8, and we will denote the intersection point as P12. From P12 downwards, we will set aside the measurement of chest height and put point G7 (P12G7=Bg=25cm). From point P12 we will put 1cm down and put P13 (P12P13=1cm). Connect points P9 and P13. And we connect points P13 and P5 with a dotted line. Along this line from point P5 to the right, we will set aside the length of the shoulder minus the value of the segment P9P13 and minus 0.3 cm, put point P14 (P5P14=Dp-P9P13-0.3=13-3-0.3=9cm). From point G7 through point P14 we draw a segment equal to segment G7P13 and place point P15 (G7P15=G7P13). Connect points P5 and P15.
Side seam line. From G to the right, set aside 1/3 of the width of the armhole and place point G5 (GG5 = 1/3Shpr = 11.6:3 = 3.8 cm). Draw a vertical line through point G5. At the intersection with the armhole line we will put point B, at the intersections with the lines of the waist, hips and bottom we will place points T2, B2, H2.
Determining the solution of darts along the waist line. We add 1cm to the half-waist measurement (St+CO=29+1=30cm), subtract this value from the width of the dress along the TT1 line (43.5-30=13.5cm). Thus, we calculated the total amount of dart solutions along the waist line, i.e. 13.5 cm.
the size of the front dart opening = 0.25 of the total dart opening (13.5 x 0.25 = 3.4 cm),
side dart opening size = 0.45 of the total opening (13.5 x 0.45 = 6 cm),
back tuck opening size = 0.3 of the total opening (13.5 x 0.3 = 4.1 cm)
Determining the width of the dress along the hip line. Add 1 cm to the half-circumference of the hips (Sb + CO = 44.5 + 1 = 45.5 cm). From the resulting value, subtract the width of the dress along line BB1 (45.5-43.5 = 2 cm). We will distribute the result equally between the shelf and the back (1cm each).
Side dart. From B2 to the left and to the right, we will set aside the resulting difference (in my example, 1 cm) and put points B3 and B4. From T2 to the left and to the right, set aside half of the side dart solution (6:2 = 3cm) and place T3 and T4. Let's connect point B to points T3 and T4. Let's connect points T3, B4 and T4, B3 with a dotted line, divide these segments in half, set aside 0.5 cm from the division points to the sides and now connect them with smooth lines to form a side cut through points T3, 0.5 and B3 and through points T4, 0 ,5, B4.
If the difference between the half-circumference of the hips with an increase for a loose fit and the width of the dress along the hips line is negative, for example, the half-circumference of the hips + CO = 47 cm, and the width of the dress along the hips line is 45 cm, then the difference between these values will be -2 cm. This result is also equally distributed between the back and the shelf (-1cm). And the side seam line will look like this.
If the difference is zero, then points B3 and B4 will coincide, i.e. the side seam line will connect at point B2.
Shelf waist line. From point P7 downwards, we will set aside the measurement of the length of the front to the waist + 0.5 cm and put T5 (P7T5 = Dtp + CO = 42 + 0.5 = 42.5 cm). Connect points T4 and T5 with a smooth line, maintaining a right angle at point T5.
Shelf hip line. From B1 downwards we will set aside the value of the segment T1T5 and put B5 (B1B5=T1T5. We connect points B3 and B5 with a smooth line, maintaining a right angle at point B5
Dart on the shelf. From G6 we will draw a straight line down to the intersection with line BB1. The intersections with the lines of the waist and hips will be designated by points T9 and B7. From T9 to the left and to the right, we will set aside half of the front dart solution (3.4:2 = 1.7 cm) and put T10 and T11. From G7 down, and from B7 up, set aside 4 cm, put points and connect them with T10 and T11.
Dart on the back. Let's divide the segment GG1 in half, and denote the division point as G8. From G8 we lower the line down until it intersects with the line BB1. At the intersections with the waist line and the hip line we will place points T6 and B6. From T6 to the left and to the right, set aside half of the back dart solution (4.1:2 = 2cm) and put T7 and T8. From G8 downwards, set aside 1cm, from B6 upwards, set aside 3cm. Let's connect these points to T7 and T8
Shelf bottom line. From B3 and B4 we will draw lines down to the intersection with straight line HH1 and designate points H3 and H4. From H1 downwards we will set aside the value of the segment T1T5 and place the point H5 (H1H5=T1T5). Connect points H3 and H5 with a smooth line, maintaining a right angle at point H5.
And now we can congratulate ourselves, our pattern for the base of the dress is ready!
Once again, I draw your attention to the fact that I made all the calculations according to my own standards, so be sure to include your data in the calculations. Good luck with your sewing and creative inspiration!
1. Construction of a drawing of the basis of a light women's dress
Measurements of a typical figure, size 46, height III, fullness II (in cm):
half neck circumference S w = 18.0
half chest girth C g1 = 44.0
half chest circumference C g2 = 48.0
half chest circumference C g3 = 46.0
half waist circumference C t = 38.0
half hip circumference C b = 53.0
chest width first W d1 = 17.0
chest width second W g2 = 19.5
chest center C g = 9.5
chest height B g = 33.5
front waist length D tp = 51.0
waist back length D ts = 38.0
product length D from = 103.0
back width W c = 18.0
width of the shoulder slope W pl = 13.5
shoulder height Bpl = 5.0
sleeve length D arms = 34/58
shoulder circumference O p = 29.0
wrist circumference O zap = 16.0
We are constructing a drawing of a dress of a semi-fitting shape, with an increase for a loose fit along the half-circumference of the chest P g = 4 cm, along the half-circumference of the waist P t = 2 cm and along the half-circumference of the hips P b = 2 cm.
CONSTRUCTION OF THE BASIC GRID
The basis is called drawings of the contours of the main parts of the product: back, shelves, sleeves. The base drawing is built on a base grid, which is a series of mutually perpendicular main structural lines, built according to measurements taken from the figures.
The position of the main lines on the drawing grid corresponds to the location of these lines on the figure. If the grid lines are skewed, the ratio of the design lines is disrupted, and the product will not fit well on the figure. The names of these lines are shown in Fig. 28.
On the left side of the sheet of paper, moving 5-6 cm from the edge to the right, draw a vertical line and place point A at the top of it.
Chest line height AG. From point A downwards, set aside 1/3 of the measurement of the half-circumference of the second chest plus a constant value of 4 cm and put a point
For a light dress, the half-bust line is also the base line of the initial depth of the armhole. It is known that the girth of the shoulder joint in obese women does not increase in proportion to the increase in chest girth, therefore for sizes 54-60 the height of the half-chest line (base of the armhole) does not exceed 22.5 cm, and for sizes 62 and above 23 cm. This is especially important importance in fitted products, where an increase in the depth of the armhole in a bodice with a set-in sleeve makes it difficult to freely move the arm, especially a full one. The depth of the armhole also depends on the type of product, silhouette and other factors; in these cases, reducing or increasing the depth of the armhole should be done only after constructing the grid of the main drawing. For example, for a narrow sleeve and a sleeve that fits at the bottom, in order to ensure free movement of the arm, the depth of the armhole can be reduced (raised from the mesh line) by 1 cm (Fig. 39, a) and, conversely, for sleeves that fit the arm freely at the bottom, you can deepen the armhole by 1-2 cm (as shown in Fig. 39, b).
Back Waist Length AT. From point A downwards, set aside the measurement D ts and place point T: AT = D ts = 38 cm.
Hip line height TB. Determined as follows - 1/2 of the length of the waist and back minus
In women with large subcutaneous fat deposits on the sides above the hips, the height of the hips is:
From point T, set aside 18 cm and place point B.
Product length AN. From point A downwards, set aside the measurement of the length of the product and put point H: AN = D from = 103 cm.
From the obtained points A, D, T, B, H, draw horizontal lines to the right at right angles. These lines will be called the shoulder, chest, waist, hip and hem lines.
The beginning of the bevel of the midline of the back is indicated by point a on the chest height line AG, dividing it in half. Along the waist line from point T to the right, set aside a bevel value of 1.5 cm and place point T 1. The size of the bevel of the midline of the back depends on the posture: For figures with normal posture, the bevel is 1.5 cm, for inclined ones - 2 cm, for kinked ones - 0.5-1 cm. A correctly planned bevel size in the back drawing will reduce the depth and length of the waist darts on the back and accordingly reduce its damp-heat treatment. The bevel on the back also ensures a beautiful cut.
From point a through point T 1, draw a straight line down and at its intersection with the lines of the chest, hips and bottom, place points G 1, B 1, H 1, respectively. The bevel line is the middle line of the back, and later, when constructing the drawing, all dimensions along horizontal lines are laid off from points G 1, T 1, B 1, H 1. If the middle line of the back is uncut, then the excess fabric (about 0.5 cm) formed in the width of the sprout after cutting should be gathered onto a thread and ironed.
Width of the product along the half-bust line G 1 G 2 is determined by measuring the half-circumference of the second chest plus an increase for a loose fit:
From point G 1 to the right, set aside 52 cm and place point G 2. Through point G 2, draw a perpendicular line of arbitrary size up and down - this will be the middle line of the floor. Its intersection with the lines of the waist, hips and bottom is marked, respectively, with points T 2, B 2, H 2.
Back width G 1 G 3 is determined based on the measurement of the width of the back plus 0.2 increase for a loose fit along the half-chest line:
From point G 1 to the right, set aside 18.8 cm and place point G 3. From point G 3, draw a perpendicular line upward and at its intersection with the shoulder line, place point A 1. A change in the increase in Pg along the chest line accordingly changes the increase in the width of the sections along the chest line. For example, for a measurement C g2 equal to 48 cm in an adjacent bodice with a set-in sleeve, where P g = 3 cm, the back width G 1 G 3 will be equal to:
In an adjacent bodice on a corset (where P g = 0 cm), the back width G 1 G 3 will be equal to W c = 18 cm. The amount of increase P g to the back width must be calculated accurately, otherwise the fit ratio along the entire half-bust line will change, and namely: increasing the increase in the backrest will correspondingly reduce the width of the floor.
Armhole width G 3 G 4 is determined based on 1/4 of the half-chest measurement:
The width of the armhole is limited for larger sizes for the same reason as the height of the bust line (the base of the armhole). So, in sizes 52-56, the armhole width should be reduced by 
, and in sizes 58 and above - by 
. In addition, in adjacent bodices for all sizes, due to a decrease in the increase in Pg along the chest line, the width of the armhole is reduced by 0.5 cm and in an adjacent bodice of size 46 it is 
, in the adjacent size 52 bodice it is equal to 
. The width of the armhole can also be calculated as follows - the second measurement of the half-circumference of the chest minus the measurement of the width of the back and the measurement of the width of the second chest plus 0.4P g: G 3 G 4 = C g2 - W s - W g2 + 0.4P g = (48 - 18 - 19.5) +0.4 × 4= 10.5+ 1.6 = 12.1 cm. The second calculation method controls the first, and deviations of the obtained values should not exceed ±0.3 cm. Large deviations indicate that that the measurements taken from the figure were incorrect.
From point G 3 to the right, set aside 12 cm and place point G 4, from it upward draw a perpendicular line of arbitrary length.
Floor width G 4 G 2 is determined by the difference between the width of the product along the half-bust line, the width of the back and the width of the armhole: G 4 G 2 = G 1 G 2 - G 1 G 3 - G 3 G 4 = 52 - 18.8 - 12 = 21, 2 cm - or based on the measurement of the chest width of the second plus 0.4 increase P g: D 4 G 2 = W g2 + 0.4 P 1 = 19.5 + 0.4 × 4 = 21.1 cm. In the calculations, the first and using the second method, deviations of the obtained values are allowed within ±0.5 cm.
Auxiliary point of the vertex of the side cuts installed on the armhole width line. From point G 3 to the right, set aside 1/3 of the width of the armhole and put a point 
The position of the side cuts is not constant; it is determined by the silhouette shape and body features. So, in products with a straight silhouette, in order to make the back freer, the side cuts are placed from the back armhole line at a distance equal to 1/3 of the armhole width, or in the middle of the armhole width. This is possible because in products with a straight silhouette there are no darts at the waistline; the side seams here are less noticeable and balance the width of the back and front (Fig. 30, a).
In products of an adjacent and semi-adjacent silhouette, the side cuts are placed at a distance from the back armhole line equal to 1/8-1/4 of the armhole width. It is necessary to place the side cuts closer to the back for a greater fit at the waist line and to reduce the freedom of the back (Fig. 30, b).
For figures with a wide back and a small chest width, the side cut can be moved 2 cm towards the back, and for figures with a narrow back and a large chest width - 2 cm towards the front (Fig. 42, a). In bodice cuts with one-piece sleeves, raglan sleeves, etc., the side cuts in the armhole are centered.
From point G 5, lower a perpendicular, at the intersection of which with the lines of the waist, hips and bottom, place points T 3, B 3, H 3, respectively.
Neck top line A 2 A 3 determines the height of the body and is the main design grid line of the drawing. It separates the back part of the product from the front, and the correct relationship between these parts, called balance, decides the quality of the product’s fit on the figure.
In our book, the line of the top of the neck A 2 A 3 is preliminarily determined by a calculated and proportional method for typical female figures, with subsequent adjustment of this line for figures of disproportionate physique (Fig. 35).
From point G 2 up, set aside 1/2 of the measurement of the half-circumference of the second chest and put a point 
From point A 2 to the left, restore the perpendicular and at its intersection with the vertical line place point A 3.
BUILDING A DRAWING OF THE BACK
Calculation and drawing of the contour lines of the back are performed on the prepared drawing grid in the following sequence.
Sprout width Aa 1. From point A to the right, set aside 1/3 of the neck half-girth measurement plus a constant value of 0.5 cm and place a point
Sprout height a 1 a 2 . From point a 1 up, set aside 1/3 of the width of the sprout and put a point
Length of sprout along curve Aa 2 is equal to the width of the sprout plus 1.5 cm (constant value):
The size of the length of the sprout is needed for the subsequent calculation of the length of the floor to the waist and the high point of the chest.
Back shoulder bevel And 1 P with normal sloping shoulders is conditionally equal to 2.5-3 cm, with low sloping - 3.5-4 cm and high - 1.5-2 cm. This value can be calculated by subtracting the height of the sprout from the measurement of shoulder height
From point A 1, set down 2.8 cm and place point P.
Back shoulder cut line a 2 P 1. Connect points a 2 and P with a straight line, extending it from point P to the right by 2 cm, and place point P 1. Measure the line a 2 P 1 obtained in the drawing: a 2 P 1 = 16 cm.
Shoulder dart solution on the back nn 1 is calculated based on the difference in the length of the shoulder cut in the drawing and the measurement of the shoulder width: nn 1 = a 2 P 1 - W pl = 16 - 13.5 = 2.5 cm. From point a 2 to the right along the line of the shoulder cut, set aside 3 -4 cm and place point n, from which to the right put the tuck solution 2.5 cm and place point n 1. From point n down, parallel to the middle line of the back (along the middle bevel), draw the first dart line and place point n 2. Make the second line n 1 n 2 equal in length to nn 2 .
The length of the dart from the shoulder section of the back is 7-8 cm with dart openings up to 2 cm and 9-10 cm with dart openings of more than 2 cm. For figures with large subcutaneous fat deposits in the upper back, the length of the dart is reduced by 2-3 cm. To ensure bevel of the shoulder cut for normal and high sloping shoulders, from point P 1 up you need to set aside 0.5 cm and put point P 2. Connect points P 2 and n 1 with a straight line. Point P 2 is the top of the armhole on the back.
For products with shoulder pads, the bevel of the shoulder cut is reduced by moving 0.5-1 cm upward from point P 2.
The position of the shoulder dart is not constant. For figures with a wide back and normal (or narrow) shoulders, where the depth of the darts in the drawing is 5-7 cm, the dart can be designed as shown in Fig. 42.
For figures with large subcutaneous fat deposits in the area of the 7th cervical vertebra, it is recommended to transfer the dart from the shoulder section to the sprout line (Fig. 31, a), and for fabrics that are well ironed, half of the dart in depth or part of it can be ironed in the shoulder section of the back (Fig. 31, b).
Darts in the shoulder sections of the back (or sprout) contribute to the shaping of the back of the product, that is, they provide the necessary fit of the shoulder blades and the fit of the armhole cut to the shoulder joint at the back, a stable fit of the product on the shoulders, and comfort to wear, therefore, even for a straight back with wide shoulders, the dart solution should be at least 1.5 cm. The depth of the dart can be increased by expanding the shoulder section, as shown in Fig. 31, v.
Back armhole line. Divide the line segment G 3 P in half and put a point P 3. From point G 3 to the right along the bisector, set aside 1/4 of the width of the armhole, put a point 
Divide the width of the armhole G 3 G 4 in half and place a point P 5, from which draw up a perpendicular of an arbitrary height. Draw the contour of the back armhole with a concave line, connecting points P 2, P 3, P 4, P 5. Raise the waist line on the side, to do this, set aside 1 cm from point T 3 upward and place point T 7. Connect points T 7 and T 1 with a straight line.
The amount of dart solutions at the waist calculate based on the difference between the width of the waist line on the drawing grid and the half-waist measurement, with an increase for loose fit
The resulting difference is the excess fabric that needs to be removed into darts - side, back and two front.
Side dart solution at the waist in a continuous bodice of a dress for all figures it is equal to 3 cm, of which 2 cm should be assigned to the back, 1 cm to the front. From point T 7 to the left, set aside 2 cm and put point T 4: T 7 T 4 = 2 cm.
Dart at back waist. Divide the line segment T 1 T 4 in half and place point m. Through it, parallel to the bevel line of the back, draw a line up and down until it intersects with the lines of the chest and hips.
Dart solution at back waist equal to 1/4 of the sum of the dart solutions at the waist: 
. From point m to the right and left, set aside 1.5 cm and place points m 1 m 2. The top point of the dart m 3 is 5-6 cm from the chest line, and the bottom point m 4 is 3-4 cm from the hip line. Make a dart as shown in the drawing. In products made from fabric that lends itself well to ironing, the lower point of the dart can be moved to the right by 2 cm, this will ensure the required direction of the dart.
The location of the darts at the waist and the proportions of their solutions are not constant. They depend on the individual characteristics of the figure, the model being developed and the properties of the fabric. For example, for figures with a full waist in the front and with a large deflection in the waist of the back, it is recommended to reduce the opening of the front darts (or limit it to one dart), and increase the opening of the dart on the back, designing it in the form of two upper tucks with darts sewn downwards, as shown in Fig. 31, a. This option is also recommended for women who have subcutaneous fat deposits on their backs above their thin waist.
In cases where the total amount of dart openings at the waist exceeds 15-17 cm, it is recommended to increase the increase in P t to 3-4 cm, and for fabrics that lend themselves well to ironing (or if the model requires it), iron excess fabric on the edge for fit at the waist. In fitted products with a seam along the midline of the waist, you can make a notch of 1-2.5 cm. T 1 T 11 = 1.5 cm.
Half-circumference width of the product Calculate the hips based on the measurement of the semi-circumference of the hips and the increase for a loose fit
The width of the hip line in the drawing between points B 1 B 2 is 51 cm. The amount of expansion of the product along the half-girth line of the hips will be 55-51 = 4 cm, of which 2 cm belongs to the back and 2 cm to the field: B 7 B 4 = 2 cm, B 7 B 6 = 2 cm. The width of the product along the hip line can correspond to the width of the line on the drawing grid or be smaller (for figures with narrow hips).
bottom line draw from point H 1 to the right at right angles to the bevel line. It is equal to the width of the back hip line: H 1 H 4 = B 1 B 4.
Side cut line form the backs through points G 5, T 4, B 4, H 4, and connect the segment T 4 B 4 with a line with a deflection to the right.
To create one shape or another, the lobar construction lines (and reliefs), as well as darts at the waist, are designed in different ways. So, when designing products with. Straight broken lines are used to create a clearly defined waist line and a tight fit to the figure (Fig. 31, d), to create soft silhouette forms of fit - convex curved lines (Fig. 31, e), to create semi-adjacent silhouettes without a clear waist line - concave curved lines (Fig. 31, f).
CONSTRUCTION OF FLOORS DRAWINGS
Waist length at midline A 2 T 5. From point A 2 down the middle line of the floor, set aside the measurement of the length of the waist in front minus the length of the sprout and put a point
For conventionally typical figures, the calculated waist length should be on the drawing grid below point T 2 within 1.5 cm. If point T 5 is located below point T 2 by more than 2 cm or rises above it, then, therefore, this the figure has deviations in size from the conventionally typical figure. In these cases, it is necessary to make an adjustment to the balance of the line of the top of the neck, as shown in Fig. 35. In our drawing, point T 5 is 1 cm lower than point T 2, that is, the figure is typical in size.
Position of hip and bottom lines on the midline, the floors are finally determined by the size of the segment between the points
For figures with a protruding belly and a kinked posture, the midline of the floor should be further lengthened by 1 cm.
Center of the chest G 2 C. From point G 2 to the left, set aside the measurement of the distance between the centers of the nipple bases and place point C: G 2 C = C g = 9.5 cm. From point C, raise a perpendicular and at its intersection with the line of the top of the neck place point B. Continue the line down from point C arbitrarily.
Breast height BB 1. From point B down, set aside the difference between the measurement of chest height and the length of the sprout and put a point
Point B 1 is the top of the chest dart; its position is not constant and depends on the height of the mammary glands: it can be located above or below the half-bust line on the drawing grid. Correctly determining the position of the top of the bust dart is of great importance when moving it in the bodice to develop the style.
Neck width A 2nd century From point A 2 to the left, set aside 1/3 of the neck half-girth measurement plus 0.5 cm and place point c. The width of the neck is equal to the width of the sprout:
In the drawing, point b is the high point of the neck, that is, almost the top of the floor.
Neck depth A 2 in 1. From point A 2 down the center line of the floor, set aside the size of the neck width and put a point
Auxiliary point for neck design. From point A 2 along the bisector, set aside the size of the neck width plus 0.5 cm and put a point
Make a cut of the neckline by connecting the points in, in 2, in 1 with a smooth concave line.
The design lines of the sprout and neck sections in the drawing correspond to the half-girth line of the neck along its base in the figure. Therefore, in order to check the overall fit and the degree of fit of other structural cut lines of the product on the figure during fitting, it is necessary to protect the sections of the sprout and neck after cutting from stretching and fraying, securing them with a thread or an edge. It is also not recommended to widen or deepen the sprout and neckline of the style before the first fitting. If these rules are violated, defects may appear in the product, the causes of which are sometimes difficult to determine.
Auxiliary lines of the shoulder section of the floors. Connect the high point of the neckline B on the back with point P 2 and at the intersection of the chest height lines and the center of the armhole place points B 2 and D, respectively.
Top of the armhole line determined based on practical observations during work. With normal sloping shoulders, set aside 4.5 cm from point D downwards, with low slope - 5 cm, with high slope - 4 cm and place point D 1.
First line of bust dart B 3 B 1 . From point B to the left along the auxiliary line of the shoulder cut, set aside 1/3 of the shoulder width measurement, and place point B 3, which is connected to point B 1 by a straight line:
The length of the shoulder section from the top of the armhole line to the second line of the chest dart is determined based on the difference between the shoulder width measurement and the length of the shoulder section between points at and
From point D 1 to the right, tangent to the auxiliary line of the shoulder section, set aside 9 cm and place point B 4, and this point should be placed on the lower side of the lines.
Second line of bust dart design by connecting points B 4 and B 1 with a straight line. Both sides of the dart should be equal in length. When drawing a large-sized pattern, the second line of the dart is sometimes longer than the first; it needs to be reduced, that is, aligned along the first line, as shown in Fig. 32, a. With small sizes, on the contrary, the second line is shorter than the first; it needs to be increased, that is, aligned along the first line of the dart (Fig. 32, b). The shoulder section of the shelf is finally formed during the manufacture of patterns by connecting points c, D 1 with a straight line with the dart closed.
For products with shoulder pads, the bevel of the shoulder section of the floors is reduced by 0.5 cm.
Bust dart opening size determined by graphical construction in the drawing, without calculations, based on the difference between the armhole point of the floor D 1 and the high point of the neck minus the width of the shoulder section. When drawing a pattern for a woman whose shoulder width is greater than the norm accepted for a typical figure (by 1.5 cm or more), the shoulder sections of the floors must be expanded beyond the line of the center of the armhole by 1.5-2 cm (Fig. 32, c ). This will ensure the desired opening of the chest dart and the fit of the cut of the armhole to the shoulder joint in front.
The point of greatest protrusion of the armhole determine by setting aside 5 cm from point D 4 upwards, and place point D 2, connecting it to point D 1 with a straight line.
Divide line D 1 D 2 in half, put point D 4, put 1 cm perpendicular to the right from it and put point D 5. The notch D 4 D 5 for figures with small mammary glands is 0.5 cm, with medium ones - 1-1.5 cm and with large ones - 2-2.5 cm. From point D 4 to the left along the bisector, set aside 2.5 cm ( for small sizes 2 cm) and put point D 6. Draw an armhole line by connecting points D 1, D 5, D 2, D 6, P 5 with a smooth concave line.
To get the exact line of the shoulder cut of the floor, you need to close the chest dart on the drawing pattern, connecting the first line of the dart with the second, and from the neckline, continuing the angle of the shoulder, align the line and cut off the excess at the end.
Darts in the drawing are an important design element and are especially important in women's clothing, since with the help of darts the product takes on a voluminous shape. If in outerwear made of dense woolen fabric, a voluminous shape in some places can be obtained plastically, that is, by wet-heat treatment, then in a light dress and outerwear made of synthetic fabrics this can only be achieved mechanically through darts.
The chest dart is of primary importance; it is the main one in the design of the product, regardless of the type of clothing.
For figures of the same size, but differing in physique, the size of the chest dart opening is different. It depends mainly on the difference between the width of the back W c and the width of the second chest W g2, as well as on posture (shoulders pushed forward or pulled back).
For a curved figure with a large bust, the size of the dart opening should be 1-2 cm larger than for a typical figure of the same size. With an inclined figure and a small measurement W d2, the tuck opening should be 1-2 cm smaller than for a typical figure of the same size.
In addition, observations show that for a figure with a large chest and a narrow chest and, conversely, with a wide chest and small chest, with the same measurement W g2, the size of the chest dart opening should be the same.
* (Deviations within ±0.5 cm are possible.)
If the chest dart remains in the model on the shoulder section of the floor, then its top should be shortened: for products made of light fabric - by 1 cm, for thick fabric (which lends itself well to ironing) - by 2-3 cm, - and both sides should be made slightly concave lines.
Side dart solution at the waist, equal to 1 cm, move from point T 7 to the right and place point T 6. Connect points T 5 and T 6, draw a waist line on the field, as shown in the drawing.
Openings of two front darts at the waist calculate based on the difference between the total amount of dart solutions and the sum of the side dart solutions and darts at the back waist:
The solution of the first and second darts will be equal
Position of the first front dart at the waist. Continue the first line of the chest dart B 3 B 1 down to the waist line and place a point m 5, from it to the left put the tuck solution and place a point m 6: m 5 m 6 = 3 cm.
For a typical figure, the upper end of the first front dart at the m 7 waist does not reach the high point of the chest B 1 by 4 cm, for a full figure with a high waist and low-set mammary glands - by 2 cm, for a figure with a low waist and high-set mammary glands - by 5-6 cm. In our drawing m 7 B 1 = 4 cm. The length of the lower part of the dart is 8-10 cm.
Position of the second front dart at the waist. Divide the section of the waist line between points m 6, T 6 in half and draw a vertical line up and down through the resulting notch. To the right and left of the notch, set aside a dart depth of 3 cm and put points m 9, m 10. The length of the second dart is equal to the length of the first.
For a semi-fitted product or for a full figure with a large, protruding belly, one front dart is built at the waist with an opening of no more than 4-5 cm, it is located in the middle of the waist line between points T5, T6.
Calculation of the width of the product along the half-girth line of the hips is described on p. 60 when constructing a drawing of the backrest.
Hip line floors expand from point B 3 to the left by 2 cm and place point B 6: B 3 B 6 = B 3 B 4 = 2 cm.
bottom line expand from point H 3 to the left by 2 cm and place point H 6.
Side cut line of floors draw through points G 5, T 6, B 6, H 6, and draw the segment T 6 B 6 with a slightly concave line. The side sections of the back and the floors are equal in length. From points B 5, H 5 to the left before connecting with points B 6, H 6 parallel to the waist line, draw smooth lines of the hips and bottom.
To construct a drawing of a set-in sleeve, measure the length of the cut of the armhole and the line of setting the sleeve into the armhole. The line for sewing the sleeve into the armhole passes at a distance of 1 cm from the cut of the armhole (Fig. 33). Indicate both obtained sizes in the upper right corner of the back shoulder: the numerator is the length of the armhole cut; the denominator is the length of the sleeve stitching line. The armhole length along the sleeve stitching line is on average 2-2.5 cm longer than the armhole cut line.
The length of the lines for cutting the armhole and stitching the sleeve into the armhole in our drawing is L = 40/42 cm.
FEATURES OF CONSTRUCTION OF A DRAWING OF A WOMEN'S LIGHTWEIGHT DRESS WITH A CUTTED BARREL, WIDENED AT THE BOTTOM (Fig. 34)
Construct a drawing of the base of a dress with a semi-adjacent silhouette and make changes to the construction of the side sections.
CONSTRUCTION OF THE SIDE CUT OF THE BACK
Top of the side cut G 3 P 6 = 5-6 cm.
Back width at waist line equal to the width of the back along the chest line minus 3 cm. T 1 T 4 = G 1 G 3 -3 = 18.8-3 = 15.8 cm.
Back width at hip line equal to the width of the back along the waist line plus 2 cm. B 1 B 4 = T 1 T 4 +2= 15.8+2=17.8 cm.
Back width along the bottom line equal to the width of the back along the hip line plus 2 cm. H 1 H 4 = B 1 B 4 +2 = 17.8 + 2 = 19.8 cm.
Draw the side cut line of the back through points P 6 G 3 T 4 B 4 H 4.
Draw the line of the middle cut of the back, setting aside 1.5 cm from point T 1 to the right, and 2-3 cm below from point H 1 to the left. T 1 T 11 = l.5 cm. H 1 H 11 = 2-3 cm.
BUILDING A CUTTING BARREL
The sum of the dart solutions at the waist is equal to T 1 T 2 - (C t + P t) = 51 - (38 + 4) = 9.
The dart solution to the side cut of the back and to the side cut of the floor is equal to:
Width of the barrel along the chest line equal to the width of the armhole plus 2-3 cm:
G 3 G 9 =G 3 G 4 +2=12+3=15 cm.
Waist Width equal to the width along the chest line minus 2 cm:
T 8 T 6 = G 3 G 9 -2 = 15-2 = 13 cm.
The total width of the product along the hip line is: C b + P b = 53 + 2 = 55 cm. The size of the product expansion along the hip line will be:
55-B 1 B 2 =55-51=4 cm;
Width of the barrel along the hip line equal to the width along the chest line plus 4 cm: B 8 B 6 = D 3 D 9 +4 = 15 + 4 = 19 cm.
The width along the bottom line is equal to the width along the hip line plus 4-5 cm:
N 8 N 6 =B 8 B 6 +4=19+4=23 cm.
Design the lines of the side cuts of the cutting barrel and the floors according to the calculated dimensions obtained.
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