Memorable Victorian jewelry. Jewelry for girls, which style do you like? Victorian jewelry


Victorian jewelry (1837-1901) is greatness and pomp, sensuality and romanticism.

The formation of jewelry fashion of this period is due to the personality of the queen herself, - tastes, ideas about beauty. And even the events of Victoria's life were reflected in the art of jewelry.

Sensuality and virtue, religiosity and sentimentalism, the queen's interest in Scotland and love for nature are reflected in Victorian jewelry.

Victorian Jewelry Trends

Jewelry master made brooches and medallions in the shape of a heart, a horseshoe, an anchor - as a symbol of love, luck, fidelity.

Sports and marine themes, animalistic and floral motifs were reflected in the jewelry art of that time. Butterflies, pigeons, flower symbols are popular elements of jewelry and hair accessories, such as hairpins, combs.

The return of fashion to jewelry in the form of a snake (bracelets, rings) and "eye jewelry" (a pendant with the image of the eye of a dear person) also falls on the period of Victoria's reign.

Cameos depicting people, commemorative items with hair inserts, and agate jewelry have become almost a national brand in Great Britain.

After the death of her husband, Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha, Victoria was in mourning for a long time and did not appear in public. This period affected all spheres of public life in Great Britain, including jewelry. The funeral theme left an indelible mark on the jewelry art of that time.

During the reign of Victoria, jewelry material was also a subject for experimentation. Along with the traditional precious metals - gold and silver - jewelry was created from aluminum and steel. Steel, cut in a special way (so that the round details of the jewelry could play like diamonds), was valued more than gold.

Handcrafted jewelry made on an individual basis was made for the well-to-do strata. For the middle class, jewelry was made mechanically.

A few decades ago, Victorian jewelry did not attract interest from collectors, but today it is these things that are in great demand at the peak of their popularity.


At that time, jewelry in England was made from 15-karat gold.

After the Empire style, the art of the 19th century entered the period of historicism. The styles of jewelry, obeying general trends, corresponded to pseudo-styles reflecting the peculiarities of art of past eras: neogrek, neo-rococo, neo-gothic, etc. In addition, the development of trade contributed to the emergence of Chinese, Indian, Japanese, Persian motifs in art, which was denoted by one term - "oriental style ". Thus, the 19th century jewelry styles were characterized by eclecticism due to the variety of factors that influenced their formation. Among this confusion stands out the Victorian style, which is actively used in the creation of modern jewelry. So:

Decorating styles of the 19th - 20th centuries

Victorian jewelry

The period of Queen Victoria's reign was marked by economic recovery and stability in all spheres of life in Great Britain. The desire for luxury during this period is due to the strengthening of the bourgeoisie and the self-affirmation of this class. The Victorian style was a mixture of elements from a variety of styles: Romanesque, Gothic, Rococo, Classicism, Empire style, including Arabesque and Asian motifs.

Jewelry styles (part 3) - photo: neo-ethno style necklace; steampunk bracelet; pendant in ethno style

There were many decorations, but there was no unity in them. At the beginning of Queen Victoria's reign, gold jewelry was popular, in the middle period, when she was widowed, jewelry with black stones - onyx, etc.
The strict moral norms of English society, which impede the free communication of men and women, contributed to the spread of symbolism and sentimentalism in jewelry: hearts, doves, cupids - symbols of love since the Middle Ages, were once again honored; sea ​​anchor is a sign of hope; snakes grabbing their own tail are an emblem of eternal love. The color of the stone was not chosen by chance - the first letters of its name corresponded to the name of the beloved.


Photo 2: Art Deco decorations

Because of the eclecticism that reigned in everything: in architecture, interior, exterior and decoration - the Victorian style was sharply criticized by artists and creative people of its time, but today it is one of the most popular among young people. Its relevance is associated with the direction of steampunk in science fiction, the founder of which was Kevin Jeter: the first description of steampunk was in the novel "Night of the Morlocks" in 1979.
Steampunk (literally - "steampunk") is a reality that could be with an alternative path of human development, that is, with the improvement of steam engines. Images and symbols of the Victorian era are used in steampunk jewelry, however, in addition to stones and cameos, elements from the world of mechanics - nuts, gears, springs, etc. - organically fit into their composition. It turns out very original: unusual, fantastic and modern! Steampunk is becoming more and more popular every year, penetrating into all spheres of life: computer equipment (monitor, mouse, keyboard), watches, cars and motorcycles - everything can be done in this style.


Photo 3: Victorian-style set (bastard); pendant in the Lalique style; bow in Art Deco style

Jewelry in the Art Nouveau style (modern)

The magnificent, stunningly beautiful, decorative style of Art Nouveau (French Art nouveau - new art) took shape in art by 1890. The characteristic features of the style are: the emphasized decorativeness of forms and lines, the predominance of flat images, the desire to liken man-made forms to natural ones and vice versa.
An innovation of this style is the depiction of a naked female body in jewelry composition, which became possible due to emancipation. Other relevant motives were images of flowers, snakes, insects and animals. The world of insects turned out to be full of graceful creatures: butterflies, dragonflies, cicadas, spiders, the images of which looked original in the form of brooches. Snakes with their stunningly flexible bodies and exotic texture of the skin were also the motive of creativity, being a symbol of life and eternity. Flowers with their splendor and flowery lines - orchids, lilies, irises, chrysanthemums, etc. - were depicted not only during the flowering period, but also in the form of sprouts, buds, and at the time of withering, which symbolized the periods of a person's life - youth, maturity, old age ... Birds - swans, peacocks, swallows - attracted designers with the beauty of smooth lines and plumage that matched the style features


Photo 4: Art Deco brooch, strikosa brooch and the next Art Nebo brooch


Art Nouveau jewelry pieces were not status accessories made of gold and diamonds, but a means of expressing human feelings. At the same time, it was not the cost of the decoration materials that was appreciated, but the idea and its virtuoso execution. The Art Nouveau style laid the foundations for design, when an exclusive, author's work is valued much higher than an ordinary piece of jewelry.
The most prominent representative of Art Nouveau in the art of jewelry was Rene Lalique (1860 - 1945), a revolutionary who boldly experimented with a variety of materials. Following the spirit of the times, he preferred previously unused materials to gold and diamonds - metal alloys, amber, horn, turtle shell, glass, ornamental stones. His jewelry is examples of high art and maximum expressiveness of the ideas of the Art Nouveau style.
The American company Tiffany made a great contribution to the development of this style in jewelry.


Photo 5: Steampunk necklace and Art Nebo pendant

Jewelry in the Art Deco style ("jazz modern", "zigzag style")

After the First World War, the Art Deco style was formed in art, the name of which speaks for itself: this is the style of decorating products in all imaginable and inconceivable ways! The decor covered the surfaces of walls and ceilings, furniture and dishes, clothes and shoes: everything that the eyes see! This contributed to the creation of a sense of luxury, well-being, success and prosperity. In clothing, efforts and Madeleine Vione, it quickly faded away, and in architecture, interiors and jewelry, it lingered until the 40s.
In the composition of Art Deco jewelry, preference is given to dynamic lines, geometric shapes and pure colors. Within the framework of Art Deco, there were several micro-styles, namely:
  • geometric (Spanish or Latin American) style, in which cigarette cases and powder boxes were decorated;
  • Chinese style, in which interiors were created using varnishes and paintings on silk;
  • Egyptian style, in which clothes and jewelry were decided - necklaces, brooches, bracelets, earrings;
  • Russian style - which appeared in the 1920s in connection with the influx of emigrants from Russia and the opening of fashion houses and restaurants of Russian cuisine; manifested itself in the frenzied popularity of Russian embroidery in costume and its motives - in the art of jewelry.


Photo 6: brooch ruby ​​lips (Dali); decoration in the Art Nebo style; lalik style


Parisian jewelers - Louis Cartier, Georges Fouquet, Moboussin, Frédéric Boucheron, Laclos Frère were inspired by Russian fairy-tale patterns that fit perfectly into the composition of geometrical jewelry. Art Deco jewelry intricately intertwined motifs of national art, the creations of the Egyptians, Greeks, Romans with elements of constructivism, cubism, Art Nouveau, futurism, abstract painting. Art Deco products looked unusual and were avant-garde for that time: the traditional round and oval shapes of stones were replaced by triangles, rectangles and trapezoids with new types of cut, metal was not visible due to the new way of fastening stones. At the same time combining simplicity and luxury, the Art Deco style is relevant in jewelry art today, because it is a purely decorative style, the most acceptable in jewelry.


Photo 7: watch and earrings - steampunk, Dali pendant

Jewelry in the style of "contemporary art"

The art of jewelry lagged behind the processes taking place in society, which is associated with the high cost of products: no one wanted to risk it! Art Deco style persisted in jewelry until 1950, however, sales began to decline. Changes in the art of jewelry took place after the De Beers company held a competition in 1953 called the Diamonds International Awards (DIA). Non-standard design, a change in attitudes towards metals, which have become elements of products equal to precious stones, an expansion of the range of materials used, abstract compositions, the use of the principles of cubism and constructivism, aesthetics of industrial forms - this is not a complete list of features of the style of "contemporary art" characteristic of modern jewelry products, starting from the 60s of the XX century.


Photo 8: Victorian artifact; Suspension Art Nebo; victorian museum piece

Hyperrealistic jewelry

Accurate reproduction of objects of the real world is called "hyperrealism" - a style characteristic of modern jewelry art. An example is a diamond pendant called the Adjustable Wrench by French designer Gilles Jonnemann.


Surrealist jewelry

Surrealism is super-realism, which is characterized by the depiction of objects in a realistic manner with some changes. The leader of surrealism in art was Salvador Dali, who also made a number of designer jewelry in his usual manner. Among jewelers there are followers of this trend, for example, Sergio Bustamante, Klaus Bonenberger.
Twentieth-century jewelry styles are characterized by diversity: designers of the most conservative art form have finally found freedom in their creativity.

Probably it's time to create a library on BUSINK (or a piggy bank)

So let's start, blessing….
I promised to make a selection by style, I think it will be useful to everyone not only for creating jewelry.

Since the immediate question arose about creating a Victorian-style snowflake for the New Year, I will probably start with it.

So: where did that come from…. And what does it threaten us with….

Victorian style
In Gregorian times, it was very fashionable to wear many bracelets at once, including bracelets with gold ribbons and silk ribbon bracelets. Bracelets with precious stones and diamonds were designed in a geometric style. At this time, gold was widely used.

The Victorian era brought changes to women's fashion, including jewelry styles.
Earrings became longer and now hung loosely, bracelets became stiff and were usually worn in pairs. Clasp bracelets have become very fashionable.

VICTORIAN STYLE- the conventional name of a long period in the history of art in England in the second half of the 19th century, associated with the years of the reign of Queen Victoria (1819-1901) and the Prince - Consort Albert (1819-1861).

During this period, the Victorian style was formed in Great Britain, distinguished by a variety of forms, rich decorations and pomp. Subsequently, the Victorian style spread throughout Europe.

The legendary Queen Victoria began to rule the country at the age of eighteen, over time, the young queen turned, as they would say now, into a real style icon of an entire era.
Victorian jewelry is usually jewelry made of yellow or rose gold, inlaid with diamonds or gems. Often, the initials of the owner were engraved on the jewelry, cameos with images of people to whom they were dedicated were incredibly popular, as well as various medallions in which curls of hair, dried flower petals and other things dear to the heart of the owner or owner of the jewelry were kept. Often on Victorian jewelry you can find the image of a snake, while this reptile was considered a symbol of eternal love, such jewelry became especially popular after Albert of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha presented the Queen with a ring with a snake decorated with precious stones.


The beginning of the Victorian era was filled with unbridled optimism.
At this time, England was experiencing a period of industrial growth and became the workshop of the world.
The Victorian style is against the background of a stylistically indefinite decor, without any order and analysis, a lot of unnecessary items were placed. The Victorian style was present in decoration and home interiors and in architecture and in many other things. Victorianism was considered an attribute of luxury living.




Victorian jewelry
The Victorian era is the time of the reign of Queen Victoria in Great Britain, i.e. late 19th early 20th century Despite the fact that Victorian jewelry has a characteristic style, in general they belong to a broader classification - jewelry romanticism.
During the reign of Queen Victoria, jewelry was created that combined several styles - Gothic, Empire, Classicism and Romanesque.




Gold jewelry with black precious stones was popular.
The sentimentalism of that time was reflected in pendants and brooches in the form of hearts, doves, flowers and cupids. Interestingly, the color of the stone was not chosen by chance. It had to match the first letters of the name of a lover or lover. Nowadays, such jewelry is very popular. They add aristocracy, luxury and sophistication to the image.




Decorations early Victorian era ( period of romanticism) were light and airy and consisted of small, inexpensive gems and small, uneven pearls. Swirls, floral motifs and multicolor gold stood out among the design elements.

The early Victorian era is also called the Romantic era and for good reason. The new queen was young, anxious, full of life and passionately in love with her consort consort, Albert. Victoria loved jewelry and wore a lot of them. Naturally, the royal court, and behind it the whole country, imitated the taste of the queen. Gold in any form, sometimes with enamel (enamel is the ancient Russian name for enamel, the art of which appeared in Russia from Byzantium in the 10th century, "finiftis" - Greek. Brilliant) and precious stones - was a craze. Fashionable bold cabochons were very popular (cabochon is a method of processing a precious or semi-precious stone, in which the stone acquires a smooth convex polished surface without edges) and sets of 4 or more pieces of jewelry matched by combination. Gold and expensive precious jewelry reigned in evening dresses.



In the daytime, jewelry was worn less luxurious and less expensive: ivory, tortoiseshell, selected pearls and corals were considered suitable materials for this. The earrings were long and hung loosely, swaying. Bracelets were either flexible or rigid and were often worn in pairs. The bracelet in the form of a strap with a buckle was especially popular. Necklaces were worn short, in the center - with a stone that could be detached and used separately, either as a brooch or as a pendant.
The Victorians were notable for their romantic views of nature, and these views were no doubt fueled by John Ruskin's philosophical ideas about beauty and God. Therefore, Victorians adored the images of flora and fauna reflected in their jewelry. Victoria herself loved motifs with snakes, considering them symbols of loyalty and love. Jewelry designs of this period often expressed feelings and moods. Rings, bracelets, and medallions often contained a lock of a loved one's hair. Images and engraved messages have personalized the design of the jewelry. (fashion.artyx.ru)

Since the 1950s. XIX century. the movement of the Gothic Renaissance begins, which brought with it a revival of the art of painting on enamel, and after a long lull, exquisite jewelry returns to the jewelry scene.
In the mid-1950s. XIX century. gemstones of all sizes, shapes and colors are also much more often used, but preference was still given to large sizes. Here we find massive jewelry with gems and heavy gold. Diamonds were very popular. Scalloped and fringed gold necklaces and brooches are also becoming very popular, with or without gemstones.

Artistic styles and eras have no clear boundaries and flow into one another, which is why historians and other specialists have difficulties in distinguishing between jewelry and identifying their belonging to a particular style and time period. But still, romanticism has its own distinctive features.
It:
Commemorative decorations (funeral). These are small bracelets, rings, medallions, brooches in which locks of hair of loved ones, children, lovers are woven or hidden. The fashion for mourning jewelry was introduced by Queen Victoria, who began to wear a medallion in memory of her deceased husband Albert. As a rule, jet, onyx, sometimes with small uneven pearls, black enamel and glass, dyed horn were used for funeral decorations, i.e. the stones were dark or black and the design was rather somber. Massive silver jewelry has also become trendy for daytime wear.







Queen Victoria Animalism
An interesting feature of the jewelry at the end of the 19th century was the active use of images and shapes of birds, insects, animals. Queen Victoria herself was the owner of a stag-tooth necklace, although it is closer to the zoostyle. The biggest difficulty in creating animalistic jewelry is to choose stones that would match nature in their color. That is why, at the beginning of the last century, semiprecious stones began to be valued not only for the rarity of their shades, but also for the quality and originality of the pattern. Animalism had several stages of development: first, lizards and snakes were in fashion, then animals, and everything ended with a garden of paradise with birds.


Late Victorian era (1885-1901). It is known as the Aesthetic Period, perhaps because the country began to see more than its own complacency and was satisfied with the reflection in the mirror. The conspicuous chic in the form of elaborate and richly decorated jewels was no longer in favor. Women began to wear fewer jewelry and fewer types of jewelry. Earrings with small pins were invented. Simple bar brooches with a modest motif in the center were considered to be quite tasteful.
However, the former grandiose impulse, as it turned out, did not die out completely. After the discovery of a diamond mine in South Africa in 1867, diamonds appeared in abundance, and less expensive ones, too. Their popularity has reached enormous heights. Diamonds were paired with colored stones such as opal, moonstone and the ever-beloved pearl. Necklaces in the form of "dog collars" were worn high on the throat, they consisted of several rows of pearls, fastened together by vertically arranged rods, which were studded with diamonds or other pearls, and, in addition, separate strands of pearls were also suspended under them.
In response to all this, reactionary romanticism gushed forth - in jewelry, this was expressed in a rejection of what was done by a machine, as opposed to what could be called gifts of nature. The result: the shapes are softer, the lines are relaxed, the colors are calm, such as mauve, yellow and soft green.






Despite the fact that most Victorian jewelry is associated with England, the most beautiful jewelry of this period - the Victorian era - was made in France.
In terms of their overall quality, these items were superior to the English ones: they were lighter, more refined, with more artful engraving, and also had an enamel finish.
The most prominent representatives of Victorian jewelers are Louis Francois Cartier and Frédéric Boucheron, whose jewelry houses still exist. It was they who instilled in the secular society a love for curls, animals and semiprecious stones, and even the modern that replaced Victorianism could not overshadow their achievements and the magnificence of products.


I hope the information was helpful. Thanks to the internet!

The concept of vintage is not just old things, vintage jewelry is distinguished according to the style and time of their creation, which, of course, determines their value and how they should be worn. The basic definition of vintage jewelry is the name for things, accessories or jewelry made during the period limited by the time frame of the Georgian era (1714-1837) and the so-called retro era (forties of the last century).

Among the stained glass decorations, the following groups are also distinguished:

Georgian era (1714 - 1830)


Jewelry of the times of Kings Georgians I, II, III and IV is, first of all, a symbol of prosperity and prosperity. At that time, floral motifs, bows, butterflies inlaid with precious stones prevailed in the manufacture of jewelry.

Victorian jewelry (1837-1901)


The legendary Queen Victoria began to rule the country at the age of eighteen, over time, the young queen turned, as they would say now, into a real style icon of an entire era. Victorian jewelry is usually jewelry made of yellow or rose gold, inlaid with diamonds or gems. Often, the initials of the owner were engraved on the jewelry, cameos were incredibly popular with images of people to whom they were dedicated, as well as various medallions, in which curls of hair, petals of dried flowers and other things dear to the heart of the owner or owner of the jewelry were kept. Often on Victorian jewelry you can find the image of a snake, while this reptile was considered a symbol of eternal love, such jewelry became especially popular after Albert of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha presented the Queen with a ring with a snake decorated with precious stones.

Edwardian era (1901-1915)


Edward VII jewelry is distinguished by delicate filigree work with an abundance of small carvings and miniature accents in the form of curls or curves. Despite the cost, platinum jewelry was especially popular.

Art Deco (1920-1930)


After the end of the First World War, the role of women in society changed somewhat, and this fact could not but affect fashion trends, which did not bypass jewelry. Decorations have taken on sharper geometric shapes. Onyx and multi-colored enamel competed with platinum and diamonds.

Retro (1940s)


The retro era includes jewelry made during World War II and after. Based on art deco trends, retro jewelry is often asymmetrical in shape and rather large in size. Such gizmos were often adorned with pear-shaped or marquise-cut diamonds and rubies.

How and with what to wear vintage jewelry

Any vintage jewelry is a bright and original item, so you should be extremely careful when combining antiques with jewelry made from other metals. Better not to mix metals, wear platinum with platinum, and yellow gold pick a yellow gold company.

Do not mix styles and decorations from different eras. Bold, slightly harsh lines of retro go well with the expressiveness of Art Deco, but combining the same Art Deco with Victorian or Edwardian decoration looks extremely inappropriate.

You should not wear too many antique jewelry, even if your grandmother left you a legacy of a full box of rare brooches and rings and beads. One or two things can give the image originality and special charm, while overdoing it looks tasteless and even ridiculous. Stylists recommend combining an expressive vintage thing with simpler and unassuming things, for example, a large antique brooch or ring is better to complement with a pair of less pretentious things, but medium-sized jewelry, for example, a ring and a pendant, regardless of their age, go together quite well with each other.

A vintage brooch or antique earrings without a pair, if desired, can be transformed into a new accessory, for example, a pendant or an original hair accessory. An antique necklace can be turned into an original belt, a pendant can be used to make a keychain for a bag or mobile phone. An antique cameo can find a second wind if, having supplemented it with a velvet ribbon, make yourself a new one

Once again, I greet the distinguished gentlemen and ladies who live on the steampunker.
On the site, in addition to its own (and not so much) creativity, there are many excursions into the history of the period, better known as the Victorian era
Here you have history and culture, fashion, technology, and interior items (where your humble servant managed to make his modest contribution), and much, much more. Today I would like to supplement the picture with an overview of jewelry that existed in that period and, accordingly, reflect the trends and trends of the time. The ceremonialness and stiffness characteristic of the representatives of the era, the rigid moral and ethical blinkers of the framework, up to closeness and alienation, did not in the least interfere with the development and prosperity of the jewelry art.
However, the topic is vast and multifaceted, and therefore I propose to pay attention to unusual, in a modern view, and therefore more interesting things.
In a word, let's admire the (frightening?) Beautiful))

In addition to gold and precious stones, traditional for European culture, in fashion, jewelry made from teeth, claws, and other parts of animal bodies were in fashion. A sort of jewelry trophies.
Hummingbird earrings, 1870

Earrings from heads, with which I am having difficulties. End of the XIX century. Pay attention to the small flies crowning the beaks.

Do you remember the famous phrase: "I feel sorry for the bird"?))
Monkey teeth necklace. End of the XIX century.

The queen herself wore a necklace made from the teeth of a deer killed by her husband while hunting. Each tooth was engraved with a date, and on the clasp: "shot by Albert"

Speaking of the royal family. After the death of her husband, Prince Albert, Victoria was in permanent mourning and a sign of this wore clothes of exclusively black tones (and also, for five years, she refused to give the throne speech in parliament, every night she put a portrait of her late husband on the pillow next to her and fell asleep with his nightgown ...) Following her example, the courtiers began to dress in the same way. And representatives of the high society, as you know, have always been trendsetters. Therefore, among the broad masses, this trend was also observed. At the same time, not to the detriment of the general race and grace.
In addition to clothes, Victoria also wore jewelry (hello from Cap))
Among them were mourning. By analogy with the above, the fashion also went for mourning jewelry, worn "on special occasions"
Mourning was generally cultivated as a mandatory attribute. There were immutable canons and rules for the demonstration of grief (both sincere and hypocritical-secular). A bride could get married in a black wedding dress if, shortly before the wedding, someone from her loved ones died in peace.
It was considered normal for the second wife to mourn for the relatives of the first O_o
Fortunately, all this is already in history.
However, let's get back to the jewelry theme.
Although it is mourning, but still decorations)




The cult of death in general, to one degree or another, is characteristic of Christianity, as well as for all other religions. The Anglican Church, led by a monarch, as a branch of Christianity, was no exception.
Here you also have images of untimely deceased relatives,









And all kinds of memento mori,



and even products from the hair of the deceased. Do not consider me a squeamish snob, but I would still refrain from such extremes.



There were also just "reminders in style", because we are all mortal and most importantly, not to let ourselves forget about it (what kind of a true Christian are you then, if you forgot and stopped humbling the flesh ?!)), so that later there would be no excruciatingly ashamed surprise and surprise , but only Christian humility and so on, the rest of the text ... Well, they had the right))



On this funny note, let's finish.
Whatever our current perception of some aspects of the life of the Victorian era, you cannot erase words from the song, and therefore I considered it appropriate to publish this material, which is interesting from a cultural point of view and generally broadens my horizons.
Thank you dear readers for your attention)

P.S. Is it worth doing a separate review on the more traditional results of research and development of jewelry in Great Britain in the 19th century, in your opinion?



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