What fabric are the down jackets made of? What to sew a jacket from for the winter? What to sew a down jacket from? Leather jackets

Something insanely complicated, then, believe me, you were wrong. In our time, and even more so with our prices, this skill will be very useful. It will be enough just to know the basic principles of sewing, to have the desire and patience, so that sewing a jacket does not give you great difficulties.

The truth about sewing jackets

Sewing outerwear is likely to interest almost every woman who loves to sew. Naturally, if you took up this business for the first time, it will seem to you that it is very difficult. But, believe me, this is only the first impression. So feel free to take on this business - you will succeed.

Think about the fact that with this product you will not need to suffer especially much, glue small parts, and if suddenly there are some minor flaws, they can be easily hidden under the lining.

Every modern woman has in her wardrobe all sorts of different jackets, raincoats and fur coats. And every fashionista does not miss the chance to pamper herself with a new thing.
But why not stop spending extra money on expensive purchases and just wonder how to make a jacket.

Moreover, it is worth noting that you do not need to have any special knowledge and great experience in sewing things. In fact, the secret is simple. The most important thing in sewing a jacket is, following the rules, clearly and correctly make a pattern, taking into account your size.

You will also need to decide on the main material from which you want to sew your jacket, as well as prepare other fabrics and accessories, such as synthetic winterizer, lining, various zippers and fasteners suitable for sewing needles and threads.

After that, it remains only to decide on the style of your future jacket. After you have finally decided and weighed everything, following the recommendations, you can start sewing your new clothes, and then you will definitely succeed.

Sewing technology and secrets

Believe me, there is nothing to be afraid of. First of all, any person is frightened by a simple and banal unknown, but once you see a detailed step-by-step instruction of the entire work process, in order to understand: in fact, nothing is simpler.

It is also important to decide what kind of fittings you need. If you are thinking of sewing a jacket in a sporty style, then here the zipper is best for you. If suddenly it is not possible to get a zipper, replace it with buttons. And if you do not have access to them, then take the buttons.

Jackets for women, their types and features

First of all, decide what exactly you want. After all, all jackets are so different, each is unique and beautiful in its own way. As a rule, every fashionista in the wardrobe can find not one, not two, and not even five jackets and fur coats of various styles and sewing. And no matter how many there are, each of them means something and is intended for a special occasion. In any case, you cannot call any of them superfluous.

Light jackets

Now let's look at an example of how to sew a light jacket.

You will need the following materials:
- Cloak fabric.
- Non-woven.
- Zipper 60 cm.
- Buttons.
- Threads.
- Sewing machine.

How to sew a jacket? We start the process by sewing the lining. First, we sew the shelves with the backs. Then we sew the side pieces to the center of the shelves. Then you need to stitch the darts. Sew the side cuts and shoulders. Sew on the sleeves carefully.

Jacket top: we sew the center of the shelves and the side details. Sewing up the darts. Why do we sew shoulder parts, shelf sides and backs. Then we sew the sleeves.

Jacket collar: you need to measure the size of the neck. The size of the finished collar should be 6 cm. Depending on the size of the neckline, you need to cut a strip of fabric of such a size so that the finished part turns out to be 6 cm. But do not forget to add 1 cm for the seams.

To sew in a zipper, use a helium pen or chalk to mark the place on the right and left sides on the shelves of the jacket. And sew it neatly.

Jacket pocket: cut out a pocket for our jacket in the shape you want. Cut out the lining of the same shape. We connect both parts. Sew a finishing seam about 1 cm along the top of the pocket. Gently mark the place where you will sew it on the shelf with chalk. Then we carefully attach it.

Belt: cut out a strip of fabric 9 cm wide. Put non-woven fabric on the upper part of the belt, bend it lengthwise and iron it with an iron. We bend the edges inward and sew with a finishing seam.

Assembling the jacket: Sew on the lining starting from the sleeves. Bottom to bottom. And so on, neatly and evenly every detail.

Sew the collar to the neckline. Waste the finishing seam along the collar and shelves. We do the same at the bottom of the sleeves. We fold the bottom of the jacket and sew it neatly as well.

Our jacket is ready. Now you know everything about how to sew a jacket.

Warm jackets

The most famous type of insulation in the world is synthetic winterizer. This material is simple to work with, easy to find in any store, and is also reasonably priced. But it still has its drawbacks. At low temperatures, it loses its thermal properties and deteriorates from hot irons and steam. Also loses thickness over time, especially after washing.

How to properly sew a product with insulation, consider the example of sewing a jacket for a boy.

Children's jackets

It's also easy to make a jacket for your child. So, let's figure out how to sew a jacket for a boy with your own hands.

To do this, you will need:
- Fabric for the jacket.
- Lining.
- Lightning.
-
- Threads.
- Paper for patterns.

When cutting out the details, do not forget to leave 1 cm for the seams. Transfer the pattern to paper.

We cut out the following details from the fabric for the jacket and from the lining:

• Backrest - 1 pc.
• Before - 2 pcs.
• Sleeve - 2 pcs.
• Hood - 2 pcs.

Sewing a jacket

We connect the back and sleeves. Sew the sides and sleeves from the main jacket fabric at the same time. We do the same with the lining.

Mark the middle on the back of the jacket. We connect the seam of the hood to the middle of the back. We put a lining inside the hood. On the front parts, there will be 1 cm wide allowances for sewing in the zipper. Gently fold the remaining edges at the bottom of the zipper.

Fold the rubber cuffs in half and sew in the same way as the hood.

After that, we carefully attach the zipper, while retreating 3 cm from the bottom of the jacket.
It remains only to carefully hem the bottom of our jacket. The product is ready.

Leather jackets

Let's learn how to sew a leather jacket.

Many people think that a leather jacket is a terribly difficult task. But if you set a goal and approach this issue as correctly as possible, then there are actually no difficulties in this.

If you have basic sewing skills, know how to work with patterns, then maybe it's time to try something new. Working with leather has its own characteristics:

In no case should the leather be bent with a needle, since the puncture sites with the needle will remain forever.

In order to fasten two parts together, you can use superglue or different clamps.

When working with patterns, you need to take into account the density of the skin. If it is too soft, then leave more space for the seams.

How to sew a jacket with your own hands

When all the patterns have been transferred to paper, all the nuances have been taken into account and finalized, you can try to start sewing. Try to lay the patterns on the fabric as sparingly as possible. Use chalk to outline all the details. This can be done from both the seamy side and the front side. Since our material is very soft and easy to stretch, all details must be duplicated with a special fabric - doublerin. You can buy it at any specialty store. To give the skin extra volume, glue the skin with foam rubber in the places you need and carefully sew.

Connect all parts of the jacket as carefully as possible. Sew on sleeves and collar.
We cut out the same parts from the lining fabric as from the main one. We connect all the details of the lining. Then we very carefully sew the lining fabric to the main product. Better to start with the sleeves. Then along the bottom of the jacket, then the shelves and the neckline. That's how easy you can sew a jacket with your own hands.

Winter jackets

If you want a synthetic winterizer jacket, the question you need to decide is: what material to choose for sewing? Basically, such products are sewn from artificial leather or raincoat fabric. There is, of course, a difference in price, so decide first how much you are willing to spend on fabric.

Once you have selected the fabric, you can start working. So, how to sew a jacket on a padding polyester with your own hands?

For such a jacket you will need:
- artificial leather - 2.5 m.
- fabric for lining - 2.2 m.
- synthetic winterizer 200 - 2.5 m.
- raincoat fabric - 1 m.
- 80 cm long zipper
- standard zippers for pockets - 2 pcs.

How to sew a jacket on a padding polyester

We transfer the sample pattern to paper. Then we cut out the details of our product from the insulation and the main fabric. All parts are connected with pins, taking into account the places for the seams.

Sew each detail along the marking lines, marking them in advance on the right side of the fabric. For this, of course, artificial leather is better suited, since, making notes on the front side, they can then be easily washed off. If you are working with another fabric and cannot make marks on the face, then do it from the wrong side of the fabric, then stitch it, and only then sew it along with the padding polyester.

To make the side pockets of your jacket, you will need:
- 2 parts of the pocket from the main fabric, lining and insulation (and you only need to take half of the insulation layer, that is, the synthetic winterizer layer should be carefully divided into 2 equal thicknesses by hand).
- 2 strip details (to add volume) from the main fabric and from the lining fabric.

Do not forget to leave space for an allowance for each part - 1.5 cm.

We sew, and then we sew the details of the strip to the pockets from the insulation. We do the same with the details of the stripes and the pockets of the lining fabric. We connect the details of the pockets from the lining and the main fabric with the front sides and sew together. Turn the finished pockets through the cut.

We sew ready-made pockets to our jacket, folding the edges in order to hide the lining.

All prepared and pre-quilted parts of our product are carefully connected and sewn together.

Sewing the hood

Cut out the details of the hood from the black raincoat fabric and sew them. For the inside of the hood, we cut in the same parts from another fabric and carefully sew into the middle of the hood, then turn it out. We attach both lower parts of our hood to the middle of the neckline of the jacket.

Cut out the details for the bottom of our jacket and trim. We connect them with the front sides with the bottom of the jacket and sew.

For a hanger eyelet, you need to cut out a piece of fabric in the form of a 1x8 cm strip. Of course, you can buy a finished piece, for example, in the form of a chain.

We sew it in the middle while joining the details of the edging and hem.

In order to sew a zipper into the product, we put our zipper face to face on the left and right parts of our jacket and carefully stitch them. Before applying the zipper, step back 1 cm from the bottom of the jacket. This is done so that the finished product does not stick out at the bottom due to the zipper.

In the same way, we carefully sew the details of the lining of our jacket. Sew on the lining, starting from the bottom of the jacket. Then we sew the sleeves from the main fabric and lining and connect with the jacket.

The jacket is now ready.

Demi jackets

It will also be useful to learn how to sew a jacket for the spring with your own hands.

With the onset of warm days, I want to take off heavy fur coats and jackets and put on light and spring ones. If you are tired of your old things, you can try to make such a jacket yourself.

To work you will need:

Synthetic leather;

Sintepon;

Lining fabric;

Zipper-fastener;

Short zippers for pockets.

We transfer the pattern samples to paper. Then we carefully redraw it onto the fabric and cut it out.

Parts List:

Backrest - 2 children. middle part, 2 children. sides, 1 child. cut with a fold;

Shelves - 2 children. sides, 2 children. middle part, 2 children. central part, 2 children. strips;

Collar.

We connect the details of the back of the jacket with pins, then carefully sew and iron.

In the same way, we outline or connect with pins the details of the middle part of the shelves with the side ones and also stitch them.

Blend the details of the shelf planks together, sew. Then finish the darts and press towards the center.

Then alternately connect the parts from the lining and the main fabric.
We prepare and cut it out of the fabric. We connect and sew the parts of the rack, sewing in a collar between them.

Then we sew the details of the finished product from the lining and from the main fabric. We do the same with the details of the sleeves and carefully sew them into the middle of the jacket.

How to sew a jacket with your own hands, the patterns will tell you in more detail.

Everyone knows that all good things come to an end. And no matter how much we love warm summer days, cold autumn and winter evenings will surely come after them. With the onset of cold weather, we have to spend money on warm jackets and raincoats. But why not try to make such products yourself? Plus, it's not as difficult as some people think. All you need for this is to have at least the slightest knowledge of the features of the cut.

Examples of patterns

Consider the most common patterns for autumn and winter jackets. Let's give an example of how to sew a jacket from a photo of patterns.

You don't have to waste your money on expensive fashion magazines. It is enough just to start your own collection of patterns and pamper yourself with new things when you want it.

When you think about sewing outerwear with your own hands, the main criterion for you is the quality and style of the product. You will not be able to sew such a thing on your own ("out of your head"). So you will first have to stock up on patterns.If you spend your time and energy on work, you will succeed in high quality. And you can proudly brag to your friends that this is your job.

It's noticeably colder outside, it's time to warm up. In this article, we will consider how to sew a women's down jacket with our own hands. The task is quite difficult, but quite doable. Let's add a few unique elements that will make our product exclusive.

We will take as a basis the oversized style, which continues to gain popularity among fashionistas. Today we will try to sew quilted down jacket with a hood collar.

Materials and tools

The outer material for sewing a down jacket can be polyamide, polyester or nylon. All of them consist of synthetic fibers, have increased wear resistance, do not wrinkle, do not allow moisture to pass through and protect from wind. Polyamide is also good because it removes fumes and dries quickly. A distinctive feature of nylon is its lightness, increased water and vapor resistant properties.

ATTENTION! If you intend to wear a jacket in high humidity conditions, then it is better to choose a material with a water-repellent impregnation.

In classic down jackets, the down of a waterfowl is used as a filler. as it has natural water-repellent properties. Such fluff never sticks together and does not fall off, since sweat and human skin fumes do not settle on it. But it will be very difficult for a novice dressmaker to sew a jacket with such a filler, and it is not cheap, so we will focus on the simplest version - padding polyester.

For sewing the lining, we choose polyester- synthetic knitted fabric that looks like wool. It is affordable, easy to clean, anti-static and virtually wrinkle-free.

From the accessories, we need magnetic buttons, which we will use as a fastener.

Standard set of tools:

• sewing machine;
• overlock;
• scissors;
• tape measure;
• graph paper;
• pencil;
• needles, pins.

Down jacket pattern

The pattern will be as simple as possible, so we make a minimum of measurements:

• down jacket length;
• back width;
• armhole height;
• the length of the sleeve

IMPORTANT! Taking measurements, it is necessary to immediately put in them an increase in the freedom of fitting. For outerwear, it is about 8 cm.

We build a drawing of a pattern

• Lay down the collar width 25-30 cm + the desired length of the down jacket. Draw a horizontal line at the collar. From the upper left point to the right, set aside the width, which is equal to the width of the back * 2 + the width of the smell (about 20 cm) + 6 cm.
• We mark the central axis. From it, at an equal distance, set aside the armholes, 5 cm wide, 25-30 cm high.
• To construct a sleeve pattern, we build a rectangle. It can be made straight or narrowed. We measure the width of the armhole according to the drawing of the main part. We make the head of the sleeve rounded.

Cutting materials

• We cut out the main part from the external material and padding polyester.
• Additionally, from the same fabric, we cut two details of the hem and one collar.
• We cut out the sleeves immediately from the outer fabric, lining and synthetic winterizer.

IMPORTANT! Leave 2.5 cm for allowances on each side and 5 cm for processing the bottom.

Stages of sewing a down jacket

• Slices of parts from outer and lining fabrics we process on an overlock or on a sewing machine using a zigzag stitch.
• Fold the main rectangle with the additional collar detail face to face, we take, and then grind off them on a sewing machine. In the same way, we sew two hemlines on the sides.
• We proceed to cutting out the lining for the main part... We cut a rectangle of such a size to fill the space on the seamy side between the hem and the collar.
• Neatly we put inside a synthetic winterizer combining the corners.
• On the front side, with the help of a remnant, we outline the lines of the lines along which we will be quilting the canvas... So that the lines do not part, we fix them with safety pins and lay basting ties using a thin needle. On the collar and hem we sew (quilt) 3 layers of material, outer, synthetic winterizer, outer. In the place where the lining will be, we quilt 2 layers - outer material + synthetic winterizer.

ATTENTION! To prevent the synthetic winterizer from slipping on the fabric, you should initially sew it around the perimeter. Since the fabric is quite dense, it is advisable to use the walking or Teflon foot of the sewing machine.

• The same way we sew sleeves... Applying a synthetic winterizer on the sleeves, it is necessary to retreat 5 cm from the bottom edge (cuff). The insulation is not sewn to the lower allowance, because it is intended for hemming in and connecting with the lining.
• We lay the shoulder seams on a typewriter. So that in the future the down jacket does not slide off the shoulders, we make two parallel seams at a distance of 2 cm between ourselves and insert a lace into them, which will be pulled around the neck. The lace can be taken ready-made, but it is better to sew it from the main fabric.
• Sewing the side seams of the sleeve from the outer fabric (which is already quilted with padding polyester) from the seamy side, then we grind the side seam of the sleeve lining. Fold the lining and main sleeve face to face, sew the lower sections. We turn it out and insert the lining inside. Then he turns the cuff inward, basting, ironing and placing a decorative seam on the front side at a distance of 2-3 mm from the edge.
• Sewing the sleeves into the "body" of the jacket. To do this, we find the centers of the ridge and connect them with the shoulder seams. We stick them into the armholes with safety pins and apply them in such a way that a slight fit is formed. We make a machine seam, the upper thread should go along the sleeve part.
• We sew in the main part of the lining. To do this, we put the main part with a padding polyester on top and connect it with the lining on three sides, except for the hem.
• We turn out the down jacket through the bottom edge and pin it, apply it, and then we sew a lining to the main material on a typewriter. We do the line before reaching the middle of about 10 cm.On the other hand, we do the same operations. We turn out the jacket. We fold in and iron the middle. Using safety pins, we fix the unstitched section and sew it manually with secret ties. The lining is sewn on.
• Sew on magnetic buttons at an even distance from each other.
• In addition to buttons, you can add a belt. We cut it directly on the fabric. The width of the belt part, taking into account the allowances, is 10 cm, the length is 150 cm. For additional rigidity, we glue it with interlining or doublerin on the wrong side. We sew short cuts from the inside. We turn it out, iron it. We make a hem along the long cut by 0.5 - 0.7 cm, iron it. We outline and lay a decorative stitch on the front side at a distance of 1-2 mm from the edge.

Leopard print is still at its peak this year. If you have an old down jacket, which is fed up with the order, then make a new one out of it, everyone is wondering. Size 46-48. So, do-it-yourself down jacket.

Down jacket with your own hands. You will need: the main fabric - 2.5 m and the lining fabric - 1.7 m, one detachable lock 70 cm long, another 40 cm, 2 secret 16 cm long, synthetic winterizer - about 60 cm.Leave insulation from the old down jacket (down pads ). From the main fabric, using the method of overlaying insulation parts, we cut out new top parts: a back, two shelves, two sleeves, a collar (rectangle with a long side = neck width + placket width + processing allowances and short side = 2 collar heights + processing allowances), 4 side details of the hood and two details of the middle of the hood, a strip covering the fastener for the hood (a rectangle with a length equal to the length of the lock to the hood + 4 cm and a width equal to 6 cm).

Down jacket . The right shelf of the top is wider than the insulation by 2 widths of the plank +1 cm. To prevent the plank from being empty, we trim the synthetic winterizer slightly wider than the plank itself. From the padding polyester we cut out 2 side parts of the hood and 1 part of the middle of the hood, as well as 1 part for the collar. From the main fabric we cut out a bunch, 2 details of a burlap pocket. We cut out the lining 1 cm shorter than the main parts, taking into account the rebates and 2 parts of the burlap pocket.

Assembly... We pin the details of the top to the corresponding details of the insulation and grind them along the perimeter to the edge (you can quilt all the details on the machine). On the right shelf (to the fastener), we sweep the insulation by hand. We pin a piece of padding polyester to the bar from the inside out so that it fits on the "pads" of the insulation. We attach the synthetic winterizer to the insulation, along the cuts of the planks we attach to the edge. Along the fold of the strip, we lay a machine line from the neck to the bottom of the shelf. We put the zipper on the outer side and pin it on the left shelf from the neck down with the braid to the cut and with the teeth to the shelf. Sew along the edge of the braid and next to the teeth. We fold the right shelf with the left face inward and chop it off, leaving the middle of the front free.

Zipper lock on the left shelf, turn it to the cut and pin its right side to the cut of the right shelf. Unbutton and disconnect. Sew along the edge of the braid and next to the teeth. Sew the shoulder seams, iron the allowances. We sew a secret zipper to the sacking of the pocket of the shelf and back, so that you can close it. The upper level of the entrance to the pocket is 5-7 cm below the waistline. We sew the side seams from the armhole and from the lower cut to the entrance to the pocket (we turn the free ends of the zipper to the seam allowances). Iron the side seams. We pin the burlap of the pocket made of lining fabric over the tape of the zipper lock to the seam allowance of the shelf. We attach the sacking from the main fabric to the back, turn it forward, level and grind.

Down jacket . Assembling the lining... We grind the lining shelves to the picks and iron the seams to it. Sew shoulder and side seams, iron the allowances to the back. We attach a loop from a tuck cord to the neck in the center of the back. Fold the top of the down jacket with the lining "face" inward, chop off the sides and grind.

We chop off the collar with padding polyester and grind along the perimeter to the edge. We lay a machine line in the center along the collar. Determine the center of the collar. On its right side to the left, set the width of the plank allowance. From this mark, set aside 1/2 of the neck width, this is the center of the collar. On the cut we put a zipper lock for the hood, combining the middle of the lock and the collar. Pin up and tweak. We turn the free ends of the strap of the lock to the cut.

We make a bar from the prepared part covering the collar lock: fold in half lengthwise and grind the short ends. We turn out and straighten the corners, iron them along in half with the wrong side inward. We put a strap on the collar lock, pin and sew along the cuts and short sides. Fold the collar in half lengthwise, "face" inward, and grind its sides. We turn out and straighten the corners. We insert the collar into the neck of the down jacket, combining the centers of the collar, back of the top and lining. Sewing in a collar. We cut and iron the allowances. We chop them off on the back section and fix them with machine stitching.

We sew seams on the sleeves, having planted on the sides. We turn the hem of the bottom of the sleeves to the wrong side and sweep in a centimeter from the fold. We sew seams on the sleeves of the lining. On one of them we leave a gap about 15 cm long. Sew the sleeves into the lining. We turn it inside out. We connect the corresponding lower parts of the sleeves of the top and lining, aligning the seams, and grind in a circle.

We fasten the hem of the bottom at the seams... We combine the shoulder seams of the top and lining and fasten the seams of the sleeves at the top of the ridge along the seams. We turn the hem of the bottom of the down jacket to the wrong side and sweep it a centimeter from the fold, not reaching the middle of the front. We connect the bottom of the down jacket with the bottom of the lining and grind. We fix the hem of the bottom in several places. Turn out the down jacket through the gap in the sleeve lining. We sweep the bar and lay a line from the collar to the bottom, along the seam of the zipper lock. Sew buttons in several places on the inside of the strap and on the collar. We fasten the lock. We outline and sew on the second parts of the buttons on the left shelf. Closing the slit in the sleeve of the lining. We attach the side parts of the hood with padding polyester to the middle part with padding polyester.

We repeat the same with details without it. We unfasten half of the lock from the collar and put the outer side on the bottom of the hood, aligning the middle. We pin the zipper and grind along the braid next to the teeth. Fold the parts of the hood facing inward, chop off the bottom and grind. We turn the fold of the front cut of the hood to the wrong side and sweep it out. We turn the hood to the front side. We sweep out the bottom edge (with a zipper lock). We sweep the outer sides of the hood together and lay a line 2 cm from the fold. We sew the bottom of the hood close to the edge (I had a fur trim from a lost hood, on the tape of which I sewed buttons). Sew the second parts of the buttons from the inside of the hem of the front edge of the hood. We remove all the basting from the down jacket, fasten the edge of the hood, and the hood to the down jacket, etc. ... ... voila, we are not afraid of frost.

Vera Olkhovskaya

To sew a down jacket or warm jacket, we need three types of fabric and applied materials:

• raincoat - fabric for the "top";
• lining - fabric for the wrong side;
• insulation - fabric for lining between the "top" and the wrong side.
• tape for sealing seams;
• zippers;
• buttons;
• laces, ends and drawstring locks.

How to choose fabric for the "top" of a down jacket or jacket if you sew with your own hands

There are many fabrics for jackets.

For example, raincoat "canada", raincoat "Alaska", raincoat "gloria", duspo, raincoat memory, cotton memory, raincoat "on milk" printed and monochromatic, raincoat on knitwear, memory "Prince", park "canada", raincoat melange , Bologna, raincoat "taffeta", raincoat "gabardine", taslan ... The list of fabrics can be continued.

Almost everyone is suitable for sewing down jackets and here you need to be guided, rather, by your own taste and the idea of ​​\ u200b \ u200bwhat you want to get in the end, rather than recommendations.

The most important component of a raincoat fabric is its water-repellent properties, which can be achieved both by impregnation of latex or polyurethane, and by melting the top layer of the fabric.

An example is the fabrics "barrier", "gloria", "bologna" which protect, both from moisture and from the wind. These are good materials, but they do not allow air to pass through, which makes products from them not always comfortable to wear.

Therefore, it is important to look for membrane coated fabrics. Membrane materials are two-layer and three-layer - the latter are more expensive.

Fabrics that are breathable but impervious to water are less common. An example is taslan fabric, besides taslan dries very quickly. It is made with various impregnations.

To simplify the process of cutting and sewing, you can buy a raincoat already "quilted on a synthetic winterizer" and even a "raincoat quilted on a lining" for a jacket or down jacket. With obvious advantages, here we can face both the shortcomings of the stitch and the inability to choose one of the fabrics separately.

It is better to sew laconic products from such sandwich fabrics, the open sections of which can be easily edged.

How to choose a lining for a jacket or down jacket

Lining fabrics are also very diverse. In order not to “spread the thought along the tree”, let's define the main types of lining fabric, suitable for sewing down jackets, parkas or jackets:

• sliding;
• non-slip;
• quilted with insulation;
• and fur.

With sliding pads, everything is more or less clear - these are thin fabrics made of synthetic, natural or blended fibers. They can be either plain dyed or printed. Remember that a pure silk lining can shrink every wash, therefore, such a fabric must be wetted before cutting and make sufficient stocks and allowances, anticipating this very shrinkage.

Sliding pads are called differently. Often the name of the fabric depends on the nature of the weave. For example, satin, satin, diagonal. The linings are also jacquard, that is, the interlacing of the threads they have is in some kind of complex pattern.

The names can also go according to the composition of the fabric. For example, polyester, viscose, nylon, silk.

You can use a cotton or woolen bike or flannel as a non-slip lining. If the fabric is completely natural, then do not forget the future significant shrinkage.

And remember, if the lining does not slip, it can only be used in large-volume items - oversized, trapezoid, cocoon.

Fleece can be a good option for a non-slip lining - it wears well, does not shrink, is breathable and retains heat well.

The lining, quilted with insulation, in turn, also has several varieties. There are two main ones - the seam of the stitches is made with threads or is it thermal stitching. Quilted lining on padding polyester is more common. With the obvious advantages of this lining, there are, of course, disadvantages.

The main disadvantage is the inability to select materials separately. For thread quilting, the disadvantage may be large, easily unraveling stitches, and for thermal stitching, stiffness can be a disadvantage.

The fur lining, you guessed it, can be artificial or natural.

Natural fur is an expensive pleasure that requires skill and subtle understanding in choosing. With regard to artificial fur, the main criteria should be the softness of the knitted base of the fur and a small pile length.

Do not confuse artificial fur and faux fur with "fur" fleece - they have different density of the knitted base, and the fur is different.

If you bought a "fur" footer instead of fur, you can make a lining out of it in the form of a vest or with sleeves, and put the down jacket on a regular lining.

Insulating materials that are found and which can be used for sewing at home

Fluff

If you are sewing a down jacket with down, you may need a thick fabric for the cover so that the down jacket can be machine washed. A cover with down can be taken out of the down jacket, having previously taken out the down "quilting" from it, if this option is provided for when sewing. It is convenient for washing.

When buying down, you need to understand that there can be no 100% down, and small feathers will come across among it. But, the higher the quality of the down, the less feathers.

If you collect down yourself or buy it in the countryside, do not forget to disinfect it before sewing a down jacket. This can be done in the workshop where the pillows are being restored.

The best down is goose down and with it no frosts are terrible if it is covered from above with a membrane raincoat.

When using natural down, remember that it can cause allergies, especially in children.

Bio-fluff Sustans

Bio-fluff is a bio-based insulation, which is patented in the USA. It has all the properties of down, but it is hypoallergenic, more durable and holds its shape better. However, it is rare and expensive.

Holofiber

Holofiber, polyfiber, fiberskin, isosoft and similar polyester insulation can be considered analogs of down in terms of thermal insulation properties. They can also be used to sew inexpensive jackets and down jackets, stuff pads and children's toys.

It perfectly tolerates machine wash, and together with the "membrane" any frost.

Of the shortcomings, only the form of release can be called - balls - you have to work with it like with fluff.

Of similar materials, one can call primaloft - it is very soft, but resistant to deformation. It was used to sew warm clothing for the American army.

Wool

Natural wool insulation made from sheep or goat wool is also good and does not cause allergic reactions, but they strongly absorb moisture and have a noticeable weight compared to synthetics.

They require dry cleaning, as they shrink strongly during washing.

Due to these shortcomings, the popularity of woolen batting is low today. But wool is often added to synthetic fibers.

Mixed heaters retain heat well even at minus 25 and withstand delicate machine wash.

For sewing and knitting of clothes, fibers of wool from alpag, llama, angora and kashmir goats are used.

Batting

Today it is rarely used, but in some cases batting is indispensable. In terms of composition, batting can be either purely woolen or semi-woolen with the addition of cotton or synthetic fibers.

Of the obvious advantages, it can be noted that the batting holds its shape and heat well, but it is still quite heavy and, absorbing moisture, becomes even heavier.

Synthepukh

Perhaps one of the most common clothing insulation. Synthepukh is also called artificial swan down. It is produced in different degrees of rigidity and different thicknesses. The roll width is 150 cm, and the thickness is indicated by the numbers 100, 120, 150, 200, 300.

The number indicates how many grams of material are per square meter.

To roughly estimate the thickness by numbers, "weaving" is a rather thin synthetic fluff, for demi-season products or for separate quilting of the "top" and lining, 150 - medium thickness, all-season and "three hundred" - thick, winter.

Of course, a second thin layer can also be added to medium and thick insulation, but this is already a technology. Let's go back to materials science.

Thinsulate

Another artificial down, which is considered one of the most elastic, lightweight and warm insulation materials. Manufacturers claim that thinsulate is warmer than natural fluff. But it is very expensive and therefore did not take root in our country.

Sintepon

Has a wide range of applications, durable, lightweight and soft. The old padding polyester was relatively dense, while the new one has hollow fibers and has become better at keeping warm.

The main disadvantage is its lack of elasticity - it loses its thickness from wearing and washing, and is also not suitable for very cold winters. The synthetic winterizer limit is minus 10 degrees.

The second name of the padding polyester is silicone.

The thickness is also determined by numbers from 50 to 600 g / m2, width - 150 cm.

Hollosoft

Thinsulate-like lightweight and springy material. Its fibers are hollow and spiral. Hollosoft is well springy and keeps warmth remarkably.

It can be used for sewing quilted items such as down jackets or warm vests with fur trim.

Thermoloft

Another light elastic insulation, which is suitable for sewing jackets and parkas, as well as overalls, down-padded coat. Density-thickness from 80 to 250 g / sq.

Sherstopon

Even from the name it is clear that it is a mixture of synthetic and natural fibers. It is made with the addition of sheep and camel wool.

We determine the thickness and density in numbers from 100 to 250 g / m2, width - 150 cm.

Sherstopon is used both for sewing clothes and for making sleeping bags and quilts.

Slimtex

Thin and dense enough insulation, which is suitable for sewing jackets, coats, raincoats and fur coats, as well as for ski pants and overalls. Slimtex is also used for sewing blankets, shoes and hats.

This is a synthetic nonwoven fabric, the density of which is also determined by weight from 100 to 250. Width - 150 cm.

Slimtex is a good choice for sewing winter overalls.