Taking measurements. How to take measurements so that clothes fit well How to correctly measure the dimensions of products

When you start sewing clothes, first of all it is necessary take measurements, on the basis of which it will then be possible to build a drawing and make a pattern of the appropriate dimensions. Taking measurements is the first step in building a product drawing. This is a very important part of the job. If you make a mistake when taking measurements, then the subsequent processes - cutting, sewing and other work, will never give good results. The good fit of the product on the figure, its fit depends on how correctly and accurately the measurements will be taken from the figure.

Also, when taking measurements from the figure, it is necessary to take into account the features of building a physique.

In order to obtain accurate dimensional signs of a human figure, the following conditions must be observed:

1. The person being measured should stand freely, calmly, without tension, without changing his usual posture.

In this case, the arms should be lowered, the heels together, the distance between the toes of the legs is 15-20cm. It is desirable that the person being measured sees himself in a full-length mirror. This is necessary so that the customer has the opportunity to see the posture of his body, as well as the ability to check the correctness of the previously agreed lengths during measurements: the length of the product, the sleeves. Since these measurements, as well as the silhouette and shape of the details, are negotiated immediately, before taking measurements.

2. The person to be measured must be dressed in underwear or in a light, thin dress without sleeves, without large layers of fabric that interfere with measurement.

3. A good fit of the product on the figure largely depends on the exact position of the waist line. After all, the waist line is the border between the upper and lower parts of the product.

After girdling the waist, the clothes on the measured one are straightened, pulled below the elastic in the vertical direction so that the upper part of the figure acquires, as it were, a sculptural shape, and then the horizontal position of the elastic is verified.

4. In order to more accurately measure the figure, it is necessary to outline the position of the main points on it:

• pins mark the center of the chest (nipple points) and measure the chest line from the floor with a measuring tape, and then transfer this line to the back. Check that the chest line is parallel to the floor;
• with a pencil (if the measurements are taken on linen), mark: the cervical point (7th cervical vertebra), the point of the base of the neck, the direction of the shoulder, the shoulder point.

5. All length measurements are taken and recorded in full. Measurements of circumference and width are taken completely, and recorded at half size, with the exception of measurements: arm circumference (OP), hand circumference (OK), wrist circumference (W), upper leg and knee circumference (OH, OK).

6. The figure should be measured to obtain measurements with the full fit of the measuring tape without taking into account the allowances for free fitting, since allowances for free fitting will be provided when constructing the design drawing, depending on the silhouette, fabric and purpose of the product.

Basic measurements for shoulder garments

LL - line of blades- measured from the point of the base of the neck to the level of the most convex part of the shoulder blades (they are guided by the level between the rear angles of the armpits, that is, the height where we will measure the width of the back). Make sure that the measuring tape runs parallel to the spine.

LH - chest line- Measure from the marked point of the base of the neck through the bulge of the shoulder blades to the marked line of the chest on the back. The tape should run parallel to the spine.

DTS - back waist length- they are taken simultaneously with the LH measurement along the back from the intended point of the base of the neck through the bulge of the shoulder blades to the braid around the waist (the most protruding part of the right shoulder blade is used). The tape should run parallel to the spine. If the person to be measured has different heights of the shoulder blades, then the measurement is made on the higher side of the back.

ДИз - product length- measure simultaneously with the measurements of LH and DTS from the intended point of the base of the neck along the back through the bulge of the shoulder blades, without tearing off the measuring tape to the desired length. The centimeter tape lies strictly vertically. With the left hand, the tape is held at the waist, and the length of the product is determined with the right hand.

NPC - shoulder back tilt- measured from the intended shoulder point (the final, lowest point of the shoulder) through the bulge of the shoulder blades to the center of the back at the waist (or to the point of intersection of the spine with the waist line). If the person being measured has different shoulder heights, then the measurement is made on the higher shoulder or the height of both shoulders is measured. The difference in measurements of the right and left sides is eliminated during the manufacture of the product.

DB - side length- the measurement is carried out from the back from the waist line in a straight line to the upper edge of the ruler applied to the posterior corner of the armpit. From the obtained value, subtract 1.5-2-3cm (depending on the circumference of the arm).

SHS - back width- take this measure from the articulation of one arm with the body to the articulation of the other arm with the body through the bulge of the shoulder blades. The measuring tape should lie horizontally. Write down this measurement at half size.

When taking measurements of the AL, take the widest part of the back. At the same time, attention is paid to the location of the shoulder blades and the curvature of the back, which is taken into account when constructing the midline of the back and darts on the shoulder blades. This measurement must be particularly accurate. Do not tuck the measuring tape under the armpits.

SPR - armhole width- the measurement is carried out using a ruler at the level of the rear angles of the armpits with the arm freely lowered. That is, this is the distance between the verticals, mentally drawn down from the front and back angles of the armpits.

SSh - semicircle of the neck- measurements are taken at the base of the neck. The measuring tape at the back passes its lower edge over the cervical point (7th cervical vertebra); on the side - at the base of the neck; in front it closes over the jugular notch. It is recorded at half size.

From the side and front, the tape should run along the base of the neck, close over the jugular cavity. When taking this measurement, you should pay attention to the shape and position of the neck. The length of the neck is taken into account when choosing a product model; the shape and fat deposition are taken into account in the design when determining the width and depth of the neck. The setting of the neck affects the design of the neckline in the products.

SG1 - first chest semicircle- measure the full chest circumference. The measuring tape should run horizontally around the torso at the level of the armpits through the protruding points of the breasts and close in front of the right side of the chest. It is recorded at half size.

SG2 - second chest semicircle (above the chest)- measured around the torso. From the side of the back, the centimeter tape is located horizontally along the lower corners of the shoulder blades, touching its upper edge to the rear corners of the armpits, then along the armpits. From the front, the tape should run over the base of the breasts and close on the right side of the chest. It is recorded at half size.

URV - tuck solution level- take off simultaneously with the SG2 measurement. Measurements are taken from the highest right point of the breast to a centimeter tape above the breast (or to the line of the base of the breast at the top). Completely recorded.

SB - hip semicircle- the measurement is carried out strictly horizontally around the hips along the most protruding parts of the buttocks, closing the measuring tape on the right side of the body. It is recorded at half size.

If the SB measurement must be made taking into account the abdominal protrusion, then the position of the centimeter tape is the same as above, only in front it should pass along a flexible plate (ruler) applied vertically to the abdomen to take into account the abdominal protrusion.

Some women have two hip girths - upper and lower, and the lower girth is larger than the upper one and is not fixed by the usual measurement. To reveal the lower increased girth, the measuring tape is clamped at the level of the upper measurement and the measuring tape is lowered in a circular motion. If it does not go down, the tape is lowered to the required amount and thus the second lower girth is fixed. Write these measurements side by side and measure the length to the bottom girth. When constructing a drawing, these features are taken into account.

CT - waist semicircle- the measurement is carried out at the narrowest point of the body. The measuring tape should run horizontally. It is recorded at half size.

VG - chest height- shoot from the intended point of the base of the neck to the center of the chest (right). Completely recorded.

Taking this measurement, attention is paid to the shape of the linen and the correct position of the center of the chest is determined so that the position of the dart does not have to be changed in the product. For a figure with a high chest, the center is underestimated by 0.5-1 cm. This is especially important in products made of rigid fabric.

Accident - front waist length- take off simultaneously with the measurement of the VG from the intended point of the base of the neck through the center of the breast to the horizontal (elastic) at the waist. Completely recorded.

NPP - front shoulder tilt- measured from the intended shoulder point (middle of the shoulder joint) to the highest point of the breast on the right side. Completely recorded.

If the person being measured has different shoulder heights, then the measurement is carried out on the higher shoulder or on the right and left sides separately.

OP - arm circumference- the measurement is carried out with the arm strictly lowered around the arm perpendicular to the axis of the shoulder so that the upper edge touches the posterior corner of the armpit. The tape should close on the outside of the hand. Completely recorded.

The measurement is necessary to determine the width of the armhole and the width of the sleeve at the top. With a very full arm, this circumstance must be taken into account when constructing the sleeve and distributing the fit over the bend.

SHG1 - front (chest) width first- the measurement is carried out through the protruding points of the mammary glands in the horizontal plane between the imaginary verticals drawn down from the front angles of the armpits (approximately at a distance of 1.2-1.5 cm from the arm). It is recorded at half size.

SHG2 - width of the front (chest) second- the measurement is carried out in a horizontal plane above the bases of the mammary glands between the anterior angles of the armpits. It is recorded at half size.

RC - the distance between the centers of the mammary glands- measured between the most prominent points of the mammary glands. The measuring tape should lie horizontally. It is recorded at half size.

DPL - shoulder length- the measurement is carried out from the point of the base of the neck in the middle of the shoulder slope to the shoulder point. Completely recorded.

DR - sleeve length- the measurement is carried out from the shoulder point with the arm freely lowered (it is slightly bent) to the desired length, depending on the type of product.

DL - length to the elbow- is removed simultaneously with the measurement of the length of the sleeve to the ulna.

OK - the circumference of the brush- measured at the widest point of the hand with fingers slightly extended. Completely recorded.

OZ - wrist circumference- the measurement is made perpendicular to the axis of the forearm along the wrist joint through the head of the radius bone. The measuring tape should close on the outside of your hand.

Basic measurements for trousers

DSB - side length- Measure along the lateral surface of the thigh through the most protruding area of ​​the thigh from the elastic at the waist and then vertically to the floor.

In addition, you can read about the optimal length of trousers in the article -

Chipboard - front length- Measure from the elastic at the waist through the most protruding point of the abdomen and then vertically to the floor.

DtK - knee waist length- measured simultaneously with the measurement of DsB from the elastic at the waist along the side of the leg to the middle of the knee.

LH 1 - step length first- measured in the "riding on a ruler" position from the top edge of the ruler to the floor along the inside of the leg.

LH 2 - second step length- measured from behind from under the gluteal fold to the floor.

Note. If the measurements of LW 1 and LW 2 are correctly taken, then LW 1> LW 2 by 1-1.5-2-2.5-3-4cm, where 2-2.5cm is for a conditionally proportional figure.

ВС - seat height- measured while sitting on a table-chair. A measuring tape runs from the elastic on the side to the horizontal of the chair.

OB (lunch) - thigh circumference- measure in the upper part of the leg its widest part, touching the upper edge of the measuring tape under the gluteal fold.

OH - leg circumference- measured above the knee by 10-15cm. Measuring tape horizontally.

OK - knee circumference- Measure around the knee with the leg bent at an angle of 90 °. The measuring tape runs along the popliteal fossa, closing in front in the middle of the knee. For tight-fitting trousers, the measurement is measured with a straightened leg.

DPr - armhole length- control measurement, measured from the elastic at the waist line in front through the groin to the elastic at the waist line of the back. The length of the armhole is equal to the length of the bow line plus the length of the seat line.

ШН - the width of the bottom of the trousers- choose at will and it depends on fashion, style, fabric.

Before you start sewing any product, you need to take measurements. A professional dressmaker knows that taking measurements of a woman's figure correctly is half the battle. And even if you have never done this, strictly following the instructions below, you can do it quickly enough.

Important: before you start taking measurements, put on the underwear that you intend to wear under this product, since modern tights can give the effect of "tightening" and remove from 1 to 3 cm in volume, and bras, on the contrary, add volume.

Tie a thin cloth tape around your waist, this simple trick is used by all professional dressmakers. It makes it easier to take measurements at the waistline. We advise you to read about

Stand straight, without tension, do not slouch, do not bend your knee. After you take your measurements, you can compare them with the standard ones in order to better understand and analyze the features of your figure.

1. Chest circumference. This measurement is taken at the most prominent points of the chest. The centimeter should not be too tight or too loose. It should fit snugly, but without tension, to the body. The girth above the chest is measured over the breasts.

2. Waist circumference. Measured at the narrowest point, the tape should be tight around the waist.

3. Hips circumference. Measured at the most convex points of the buttocks. For women who have a "breeches effect", it is also recommended to duplicate the measurement (measure the volume just below the buttocks along the protruding parts of the "breeches".

If the first measurement is significantly smaller than the second, use the second, especially in products that involve tight silhouettes, such as a sheath skirt. In this case, the fitting of the product will have to be done directly when trying on the creased product.

4. The height of the chest. It is measured from the point of transition of the neck to the shoulder to the most prominent point of the chest.

5. Length of the front to the waist. The length of the front to the waist (DPT) is measured from the point of transition of the neck to the shoulder (base of the neck) through the most prominent point of the chest to the waist.

6-6a. Length of the product. For shoulder products, it is measured along the back from the seventh cervical vertebra to the desired length of the product (6), for waist products - along the back from the waist to the desired length of the product (6a).

7. Back length to waist. It is measured from the seventh cervical vertebra to the waist line (DST).

8. Back width. Measured horizontally along the straightened back through the center of the shoulder blades.

9. Shoulder width. It is measured horizontally along the most prominent points from one shoulder to the other.

10. Shoulder length. Measured from the base of the neck to the extreme point of the shoulder (the point of articulation of the shoulder with the arm).

11. Sleeve length. It is measured from the point of the end of the shoulder to the wrist along the arm slightly bent at the elbow. 3/4 sleeve length is measured in the same way, but to the elbow.

12. Arm circumference (upper part). Measured horizontally across the widest upper arm.

13. Neck circumference. This measurement is around the base of your neck.

14. The depth of the armhole. The depth of the armhole can be measured as follows: hold a 3-4 cm wide strip of paper under your armpit. Measure along the back from the 7th cervical vertebra to the upper edge of the strip of paper.

By the way, with the help of a strip of paper, you can take the measurement and the width of the armhole. Squeeze a strip of paper horizontally under your armpit, put vertical lines to the left and right of your hand - this will be the Width of the armhole.

Rice. How to measure armhole width

15. The height of the hips. Measured from the side from the waist to the hips. In order to accurately take this measurement, tie a thin tape around your waist and hips. Measure from between the inlays along the side line.

16. Outside leg length. Measured from the waist to the outside of the leg to the floor.

17. Inside leg length (stride length). Measured along the inside of the leg from groin to floor.

18. Thigh girth. Measured horizontally 5 cm below the gluteal crease at the thigh.

19. Knee girth. Measured horizontally 2 cm below the kneecap.

20. Knee height. Measured from waistline to mid-knee.

21. Calf circumference. It is measured horizontally along the most voluminous part of the lower leg.

22. Ankle girth. Measured horizontally at the thinnest point of the leg.

23. Seat height. Measured while sitting on a flat surface, along the back, from the waistline to the surface.

We will devote the tenth sewing lesson to taking measurements. In mass garment production, when building drawings of products, tables of measurements of typical figures are used. Individual tailoring requires more accurate data. In this case, it is more expedient to use a calculation and measurement system.

It is based on measurements (the distance between certain points of the figure) taken directly from the figure of the person for whom the clothes are sewn.

Measurements are made with a dense centimeter tape. The correctness of the drawing and, as a consequence, the appearance of the product on the figure depends on their accuracy. Therefore, it is very important that the following requirements are met. The measuring tape must not be loosened or stretched. The one from whom the measurements are taken should stand upright, without tension, maintaining the usual posture, with hands down; position of the feet - heels together, toes unfolded. To prevent excess clothing from distorting the readings, it is advisable to take measurements for linen. Paired dimensional indicators must be determined on the right side. Measurement error should not exceed 0.5 cm.

Taking measurements start by marking orientation points and lines on the figure. The waistline is fixed with a thin braid, which is placed strictly horizontally when sewing shoulder products (dresses, blouses, jackets) and the way it fits on the figure when sewing waist products (skirts, trousers). The position of the shoulder seam (points of the base of the neck and shoulder - at the edge of the shoulder) is marked with chalk or pencil, the center of the chest - with a pin. To fix the line of the depth of the armhole (back and front angle of the armpit) and the length of the side, a strip of thick paper 2-3 cm wide, 30 cm long, folded in half is placed under the arm. Some parts of the shape do not have transition boundaries. In these cases, additional measurements are taken to control the main ones.

Since the drawings are built in half of the figure (when cutting, the pattern is applied to the fabric folded in half), the measurements of the girths (except for the girth of the arm) and width are recorded in half size. The half-girth indicators are rounded to whole values, the half-width indicators of the back and front are not rounded. For example, the chest circumference is 105 cm, the back width is 37 cm; you need to write down 52 (or 53) and 18.5, respectively. Length measurements are recorded in full.

In a conditional a brief record of measurements the first capital letter (or two letters) denotes the name of the measurement: H - height, G - depth, PO - half-girth, etc .; lowercase letters, and in some cases also numbers, indicate the place of measurement. For example, Dst is the length of the back to the waist. Op - arm girth, POr1 - first half-girth of the chest. (In the future, in the data for the construction of product drawings, we will give only a brief record of measurements, without decoding.)

To build product drawings, the following measurements are needed.

1. Semi-girth of the neck (POSH)... A centimeter tape is applied over the seventh cervical vertebra, from the side and in front, it runs along the base of the neck and closes in front of the jugular cavity.

2. First half-girth of the chest (Pog1)... The tape is applied horizontally on the shoulder blades, it touches the upper edge of the posterior corners of the armpits, goes along the armpits, passes in front over the mammary glands and closes on the right side of the chest.

3. Semi-girth of the second chest (POg2)... This measurement determines the size of the product when building a drawing. After the previous measurement, the tape on the back is not moved, in front it passes through the protruding points of the mammary glands and closes on the right side of the chest.

Per. Third half-girth of the chest (Pog3)... In the industry and trade network, this measure determines the size of the product. The tape is applied horizontally around the body through the protruding points of the mammary glands and closed on the right side of the chest.

4. Half waist (sweat)... The tape is applied horizontally around the body along the waist line. When sewing some products, it may be necessary to measure the full waist circumference (From).

5. Half girth of the hips (POB)... The tape is applied to the gluteal points, it runs horizontally around the body, in front along the protrusion of the abdomen and closes on the right side of the body. Sometimes you need a measure of full hip circumference (About).

6. Shoulder length (dpl)... Measured in the middle of the shoulder slope from the point of the base of the neck to the shoulder point.

7. Sleeve length (Dr)... The tape is applied from the end of the shoulder seam through the protruding point of the elbow in the direction of the little finger to the hand. The arm at the elbow is slightly bent. Simultaneously fix (write down) the length of the sleeve to the elbow.

8. Arm girth (Op)... Measured with a freely lowered arm. The tape is applied strictly horizontally. Its upper edge touches the posterior corner of the armpit, the tape closes on the outer surface of the arm.
For a narrow sleeve, additionally remove the girth of the arm at the level of the elbow and at the level of the wrist, or wrist girth (Ok).

9. Half Back Width (PShs)... The tape is applied horizontally on the bulges of the shoulder blades to the rear angles of the armpits.

10. Half shoulder width (PSHp)... Measured between the shoulder points from the back. The ribbon goes through the sprout. This measurement is a control one.

11. Back length to waist (Dst)... The tape is applied at the back from the waist line to the point of the base of the neck at the shoulder, it runs parallel to the spine through the bulge of the shoulder blades.

12. Armhole depth (Gpr)... It is measured from the point of the base of the neck at the shoulder seam to the top edge of a strip of thick paper tucked under the arm. The tape runs parallel to the spine along the convexity of the shoulder blades. The end of the paper strip is taken to the shoulder blades, placing it strictly horizontally.

13. Side length (dB)... Measured on the back from the top of the paper strip to the vertical waistline.

14. Back shoulder height (VPS)... Determine the position of the shoulder point in relation to the waist line. Measurements are made in two directions: along the shortest distance from the intersection of the waist line with the spine through the shoulder blade to the shoulder point (oblique shoulder height) and from the waist line to the shoulder point parallel to the spine (straight shoulder height). The measure is written as a fraction: in the numerator - the value of the oblique measurement, in the denominator - the direct one.

15. Half the width of the chest first (ПШг1)... The tape is applied over the base of the mammary glands between the verticals, mentally drawn from the front corners of the armpits upwards. This measurement is a control one.

16. Half the width of the chest is the second (PShg2)... The tape goes along the protruding points of the bust to the verticals, mentally drawn from the front corners of the armpits down.
16a. Half bust width (PShb). The lepta is placed between the anterior corners of the armpits through the protruding points of the bust. The last two measurements are recorded together: the first number is ПШг2, the second is ПШб.

17. Bust Center (CB)... Measured between the centers of the mammary glands.

18. Breast height (Bg)... The tape is applied from the point of the base of the neck at the shoulder to the protruding point of the breast.

19. Front length to waist (Dpt)... This measurement is taken directly behind the Bg measurement. The tape, applied to the base point of the neck at the shoulder, passes through the protruding point of the breast, parallel to the middle of the front to the tape at the waist line.

20. The length of the middle of the front (DSP)... Measured from the jugular to the tape at the waist. With a large bust, a thin ruler is applied to its protruding points - the tape passes through it. For control, the depth of the neck is measured from the point of the base of the neck at the shoulder to the upper edge of the ruler, laid horizontally at the jugular cavity.
This measurement, in total with the depth of the neck, should measure the length of the front to the waist, and write it down in two numbers: the first is the depth of the neck, the second is the chipboard itself.

21. Front shoulder height (Vpp)... Measurements are made in two positions: from the shoulder point to the center of the bust and from the same point (the tape is not moved from it after the first measurement) parallel to the middle of the front to the braid on the waist line. Both values ​​are recorded.

22. Product length (Di)... A tape is applied from the 7th cervical vertebra, it goes down through the waist line to the desired point.

23. Skirt length (Du)... Measured from the talin line to the side.

24. Length in the middle of the front from waist to floor (Dpp).

25. Side Waist to Floor Length (DBP).

26. Length from waist to floor in back (DSP)... It is measured along a line that continues the line of the spine. The length of the skirt in the middle of the front (Dp). Its value is the difference between the Dpp measure and the length from the bottom of the skirt to the floor.
Skirt length at the back (Ds)... The difference between the dimension of the chipboard and the length from the bottom of the skirt to the floor.

27. Pants length, pants length to the knee (DBR, DBRK)... Measured from the waistline at the side to the desired point.

28. Thigh girth (O. thigh)... The tape wraps around the thigh strictly horizontally, touching the upper edge of the gluteal fold, and closes on its outer side.

29. Seat height (Sun)... The person whose figure is being measured should sit on a chair with a flat, hard seat. Measure from the side from the waistline to the seat of the chair.

30. Seat length (Ds)... The tape runs from the waistline in front through the groin to the waistline in the back.

31. Stride length (Lsh)... Measured along the inner thigh from groin to floor with legs slightly apart.

32. Knee girth (Ok)... It is measured on the leg bent at an angle of 90 degrees at the level of the knee point.

33. The height of the gluteal fold (Vp)... Measured from the middle of the gluteal fold to the floor vertically. Before making a drawing of the pattern, you need to check if the measurements were taken correctly. The half-girth of the chest should be equal to the sum of the measurements of half the width of the back, the width of the armhole and half the width of the front (POg2 = PShs + Shpr + PShp). Half the width of the back is taken according to the taken measurement; the width of the armhole is calculated according to the measurement of the girth of the arm (Spr = Op: 3 + 0.5 cm); half the width of the front is equal to half the width of the second chest (PShp = PShg2) or half the width of the bust minus approximately 2 cm (PShp = PShb - 2 cm). If an inaccuracy of more than 1 cm is admitted, the measurements must be checked again. The length of the back to the waist should be equal to the sum of the measurements of the depth of the armhole and the length of the side (Dst = Gpr + Db).
When sewing hats, you need a head circumference measurement (Og).

Free fit allowances

There is always a space between the body and clothing, which plays a heat-insulating role, provides freedom of movement, breathing, blood circulation and creates a certain silhouette of the product. The difference between the inside of the garment and the size of the body is called the free fit increase.
In practice, a total increase is used, including a technical increase and an increase in decorative and constructive design. The technical increase is minimal. It is given so that the clothes are comfortable and hygienic. Decorative and constructive is used to create a silhouette (adjacent, semi-adjacent, free) and the shape of the product.
Allowances for folds, gathers, pintucks, puffs and other decorative elements do not apply to allowances for free fitting, they are taken into account when developing a model on the main pattern drawing. Increases for a free fit are given to the width of the product along the lines of the chest, waist and hips, to the depth of the armhole, the length to the waist of the back and front, the girth of the arm, the width of the sprout and the neck.
The allowances for a free fit along the chest line, depending on the silhouette of the model and the degree of fit of the product, can be differently distributed between the sections of the back, front and armholes. In summer sundresses, they are less than in dresses, or they are not given at all.
Increases are indicated by the letter II and a lowercase letter or an abbreviated word indicating the place to which the increase is given: Pg increase along the chest line, Pdst - an increase in the length of the back to the waist. Пгпр - an increase in the depth of the armhole, Fri - an increase in the waist line, Pshgorl - an increase in the width of the neck, Pvplkos - an increase in the height of the shoulder with an oblique, etc.

Drawing grid

A drawing of any type of product is applied to a mesh, the lines of which correspond to the main lines of the figure: the neck line on the mesh is the base of the neck on the figure, the chest line is the protruding part of the chest, the waist line is the waist of the figure, the hip line is the protruding part of the hips, the bottom line is the given position the bottom of the product on the figure, the lines of the middle of the front and back - the middle of the back and the middle of the front on the figure. The position of the grid lines is determined by the measurements taken, taking into account the allowances for free fitting.

Getting a pattern from a drawing

Cutting the pattern directly from the drawing is impractical, since it is inconvenient to make possible corrections that will be noted on the fitting into the cut drawing.
The contours of the patterns of the back and front, the lines of the waist and hips are copied from the drawing onto a sheet of paper placed under the drawing using a cutter. It is recommended to put paper not on a hard table, but on a cloth laid on it in 1-2 layers.
On the cut out patterns, the conjugation of the shoulder and side cuts at the armhole, neckline and sprout is specified. For this, the patterns of the front and back are applied one on top of the other, alternately combining the side and shoulder sections. Notches are made along the waist line, which, when cutting, are marked on the fabric with control points. This is done in order to accurately align the details of the product when sewing.

When the designation of measurements becomes clear, then you need to proceed to such an important section as taking measurements.

What measurements are needed for sewing? Or rather, to build a drawing?

For different drawing bases, different measurements are needed.

They are divided into:

1. Measurements for a skirt (waist skirts, measurements for an apron)
2. Measurements for trousers
3. Measurements for the dress

Measurements for a dress mean not only a dress, but also products of a similar design (sundresses, etc.).
Dress measurements are perhaps the largest section of sewing measurements.

But it is not enough just to know them, they still need to be filmed correctly.

There are certain rules for taking measurements, which will be discussed below.

But I want to immediately clarify that it is so correct to take measurements for building drawings of structures according to EMKO (TSOTSHL).

Measurement rules:

1. Height ( R) - measured the vertical distance from the crown point to the floor.

2. Semi-girth of the neck ( SS) - measured with a measuring tape around the neck: behind the 7th cervical vertebra, in front - along the base of the neck to the jugular notch.

3. Semi-girth of the chest1 ( Cr1) - the measuring tape should pass from the back along the shoulder blades, touching the upper edge of the tape to the rear corners of the armpits, in front - over the base of the mammary glands.

4. Semi-girth of the chest2 ( Cr2) - a centimeter passes from the back along the shoulder blades, touching the upper edge of the tape to the rear corners of the armpits, in front - along the base of the mammary glands (protruding points).

5. Semi-girth of the chest3 ( Cr3) - measured horizontally around the body, through the protruding points of the mammary glands.
This measurement determines the size of the customer.

6. Half waist ( St) - measured around the torso at the level of the waist line.

7. Semi-girth of the hips ( Sat) - measured horizontally from behind at the most prominent points of the buttocks in front, taking into account the protrusion of the abdomen.

8. Chest width1 ( Wg1) - measured horizontally above the base of the mammary glands, between the verticals, mentally drawn up from the front angles of the armpits.

9. Chest width2 ( Wg2) - measured horizontally through the protruding points of the mammary glands, between the verticals, mentally drawn down from the front angles of the armpits.

10. Center of the chest ( Tsg) - measured between the protruding points of the mammary glands.

11. The distance from the back waistline to the highest point of the projected shoulder seam at the base of the neck ( Dts2) - measured from the waistline to the highest point of the projected shoulder seam at the base of the neck, parallel to the spine.

12. The distance from the 7th cervical vertebra to the waist line ( Dts) - measured from the 7th cervical vertebra along the spine to the waist line.
Verification measure.

13. The distance from the highest point of the projected shoulder seam at the base of the neck to the waist line in front ( Crash2) and chest height ( Br2) - are measured from the highest point of the projected shoulder seam at the base of the neck to the waist line through the protruding points of the mammary glands, while fixing its position.

14. The distance from the highest point of the projected shoulder seam at the base of the neck to the level of the posterior angles of the armpits ( Vprz2) - measured from the highest point of the projected shoulder seam parallel to the spine to the horizontal, passing at the level of the posterior angles of the armpits.

15. Shoulder height oblique ( Vpk) - measured from the point of intersection of the waist line with the spine to the end point of the projected shoulder seam at the back (the centimeter needs to be pulled).

16. Shoulder height oblique in front ( Vpkp2) - measured from the end point of the projected shoulder suture to the protruding point of the breast.
Verification measure.

17. Back width ( Shs) - the centimeter runs horizontally along the shoulder blades, between the posterior corners of the armpits.

18. Product length ( Di) - measured in the middle of the back from the 7th cervical vertebra to the level of the desired length.

19. The width of the shoulder slope ( Shp) - is measured from the highest point of the projected shoulder seam at the base of the neck to its end point.

20. Sleeve length ( Dr) - is measured from the end point of the projected shoulder seam along the outer surface of the shoulder and forearm with a freely lowered arm, to the desired length (usually up to the 1st joint of the thumb).

21. Shoulder circumference ( Op) - measured with a freely lowered arm perpendicular to the axis of the shoulder, touching the upper edge of the tape to the rear corners of the armpits.

22. Wrist circumference ( Ozap) - measured horizontally around the arm at the narrowest point.

23. Length from waist to floor in front ( Chipboard) - measured in the middle of the front.

24. Length from waist to floor at the side ( Dsb) - measured from the side to the floor.

25. Length from waist to floor in back ( DSZ) - measured in the middle of the back.

26. Shoulder length ( Dp) - measured from the projected shoulder endpoints through the 7th cervical vertebra.
Verification measure.

Because in the design process, half of the measurements are used for SSh, Cr1, Cr2, Cr3, St, Sat, Shg, Shg2, Shs, Dn - then these measurements are recorded in half value.

These are the basic measurements required to build drawings for shoulder products.

In order to make it more convenient to take measurements, you can make such a shoulder pad made of dense fabric. It can be sewn with approximate dimensions based on the drawing.

It is needed so that you can clearly fix the projected shoulder points.
Otherwise, when taking measurements, you will constantly get lost.
This can already be seen with experience, but at first it is better to make such a simple device.

Taking measurements is a very crucial stage. If the measurements are taken incorrectly, the drawing may turn out to be inaccurate.
Do not take measurements "hastily"!

20:57 Unknown 9 Comments

In this article, we will look at the measurements required to build a basic dress pattern.

In my first article, I have already considered the measurements, on the basis of which we built according to the method of Tatyana Roslyakova. However, in the article, we found out that there are several dozen calculation and graphic cutting techniques, which differ not only in the calculation formulas and drawings, but in the amount of data about the figure. The more measurements of the figure are taken to build the structure, the more accurate the pattern will be. In this article, we will consider the measurements required to build a basic structure using the TSOTSL method. The exact name of the method is EMCO TSOTSHL (a unified method for designing clothes, developed by the Central Experimental and Technological Sewing Laboratory).
What rules must be followed when taking measurements, you can read.
And we proceed to measurements.

Semi-girth of the neck (US)- measure at the base of the neck (record half of the measurement).

Blade line (LL)- measured from the point of the base of the neck to the level of the most convex part of the shoulder blades, being guided by the level between the posterior angles of the armpits, the measuring tape should run parallel to the spine (the measurement is recorded in full).

Chest line (Lg)- measured from the intended point of the base of the neck through the bulge of the shoulder blades to the web that runs along the protruding parts of the shoulder blades on the back and along the highest part of the chest. A measuring tape parallel to the spine (the measurement is recorded in full).

Back Waist Length (Dts)- measure simultaneously with the measurement of Lg along the back from the intended point of the base of the neck through the bulge of the shoulder blades to the braid at the waist (the most protruding part of the shoulder blade is used) (the measurement is recorded in full).

Back width (Shs)- Measure between the rear angles of the armpits, placing the measuring tape horizontally at the level of the protruding parts of the shoulder blades (record half of the measurement).

Side length (dB)- measured from the back from the waist line in a straight line to the upper edge of the ruler applied to the rear corner of the armpit (the measurement is recorded in full).

Armhole width (Spr)- the measurement is carried out using a ruler at the level of the rear angles of the armpits with a freely lowered arm, the distance between the verticals mentally drawn downward from the front and rear angles of the armpits is measured (the measurement is recorded in full).

Back shoulder slope (Nps)- measured from the intended shoulder point (the final, lowest point of the shoulder) through the bulge of the shoulder blades to the center of the back at the waist (the measurement is recorded in full).

Front length to waist (Dtp)- Measure from the shoulder line at the base of the neck through the protruding point of the chest to the waist line (the measurement is recorded in full).

Breast height (Bg)- this measurement is measured simultaneously with the measurement of the length of the front to the waist from the shoulder line at the base of the neck to the protruding point of the chest (the measurement is recorded in full).

Front Shoulder Inclination (Npp)- measured from the intended shoulder point (middle of the shoulder joint) to the highest point of the chest (the measurement is recorded in full).

Center of the chest (Cg)- measured along a horizontal line between the protruding points of the chest (write down half of the measurement).

First chest width (Wg1) - measured through the protruding points of the chest in the horizontal plane, measure the distance between the verticals mentally drawn down from the front angles of the armpits (write down half of the measurement).

Second chest width (Wg2)- the measurement is carried out in a horizontal plane above the base of the chest between the front angles of the armpits (the measurement is recorded in half size).

First chest semicircle (Cr1)- measured around the torso. From the side of the back, the centimeter tape is located horizontally along the lower corners of the shoulder blades, touching with its upper edge the rear corners of the armpits, then along the armpits. In front, the tape passes over the base of the chest and closes on the right side of the chest (write down half of the measurement).

Second chest semicircle (Cr2)- measured around the body sequentially after measuring Cr1, without changing the position of the measuring tape on the back, which should pass horizontally along the shoulder blades and touching its upper edge with the armpits, and in front of the tape should pass along the protruding points of the chest, closing on the right side (write down half of the measurement)

Third chest semicircle (Cr3)- measure the full girth of the chest, the measuring tape should pass along the protruding parts of the shoulder blades on the back and along the highest part of the chest (record half of the measurement).

Shoulder length (dp)- measured along the shoulder line from the base of the neck to the extreme point of the shoulder (the measurement is recorded in full)

Product length (Di)- measured from the seventh cervical vertebra in the middle of the back to the required length (the measurement is recorded in full). It is very simple to find the seventh cervical vertebra: when the head is tilted, the most protruding vertebra is the seventh.

We record all measurements to the nearest millimeter; it is not permissible to round off measurements!