DIY jewelry in the Ukrainian style. Ukrainian decoration - Silianka

Ukrainian jewelry - Silianka is gerdan, or another name for silianka made of beads - an ancient jewelry of Ukrainian women - a solid even or openwork strip that fits snugly around the neck, tied at the back or fastened with a hook. It was woven from multi-colored beads on a hair or thread basis, from 0.5 to 4 cm wide, with a geometric ornament.
Sillyanka wore one strip around their neck or two or three narrow strips of different colors and patterns at once, connected them with several strands of glass beads and corals.

Multicolored beaded necklace with an interesting pattern, beautiful necklace in ethnic style.

In the east of Ukraine, this decoration was unknown. Met in Podillia and Volyn. And in Galicia it was extremely common. Probably the silyanka came to Galicia from Hungary. Similar to gerdans products called margele are also common in the Romanian part of Bukovina.
And according to this pattern, I weaved my silanka, it can be seen in the section "Works" Only the color scheme is slightly different from the scheme.

According to this pattern, I have woven several silyanka... Not difficult at all, but very beautiful.

Ukrainian jewelry has always performed two functions - protective and informative. The first possessed amulet and ritual jewelry, which was worn only on the body - wedding rings, bracelets and crosses. Well, those that were worn over clothes spoke eloquently about the owner's wealth: six threads of coral namyst, for example, cost like a pair of oxen. Gerdana- breast beaded ornaments in the form of a loop of two stripes connected by a medallion at the place of the solar plexus. They were worn mainly by men, but also worn by women. In Bukovina, the ends of the gerdan ribbons were connected by a mirror suspended from them.

The name "sylyanka" comes from the method of making such jewelry ("sylyannya", nizaniya - a method of stringing beads on a string. Not wide (two to three centimeters) silyanki women wore every day as a talisman (the strength of the silanka as a talisman was always determined by the ornament). For greater strength of the guardian of the Hutsul, for example, a beaded ribbon with a protective ornament was sewn onto a red strip of the canvas.

Our national costume is called one of the most attractive and colorful in the world. Beautiful and wise Ukrainian women knew how to dress smartly and choose jewelry to match. Modern designers and jewelers admire the products of the past and create stylized authentic accessories based on their motives. Earlier it was believed that jewelry had a special meaning and protected the hostesses from the evil eye and evil spirits. Many of them have long been forgotten, and some can be seen in museums. These masterpieces are worth remembering!

Here are 10 of the most famous and popular Ukrainian national jewelry:

1.Zgarda

This traditional necklace-amulet consisted of several rows of copper crosses, between which there were metal tubes, corals or spirals. All this was strung on a wire, strap or cord, and small discs with solar symbols were used as a fastener. The abundance of crosses on the zgarda was a sign of the family's wealth. It is worth saying that all women tried to acquire the most beautiful jewelry so as not to yield to their neighbors. Sometimes the contents of the boxes were worth more than a house or a pair of oxen.

2.Salba

This was the name of a fabric bib embroidered with local and "overseas" silver coins. Their number could exceed 12 rows. Salbs were adored in Bukovina.

3.Dukach

This decoration was a medal-shaped coin with a metal bow, which was worn over the necklace. Dukach was considered a valuable adornment and a source of pride. It was worn in a prominent place and passed down from generation to generation. The first dukachs were awarded to the Cossacks for service. And they gave them to their beloved and daughters.

4 balamutes

Such necklaces made of mother-of-pearl beads were otherwise called “white troublemakers”. They personified beauty, innocence and were designed to protect girls from excessive male attention. Amulets and medallions were often added to beads. In Ukraine, they were considered a curiosity.

5 rustling

Metal beads made of miniature bells were the hallmark of the Hutsul region. They say this is one of the most ancient Ukrainian jewelry.

6.Gerdany

This elongated chest piece of two stripes of multicolored beads was worn by both men and women. Their ornament served as a protective symbol and differed depending on the area. Gerdan could not be transferred or lent to other people.

7.Crises

This name hides the wide, round beaded collars that covered the chest and shoulders. On holidays, women put on several multi-colored crises of different sizes at once.

8 coral beads (coral)

This popular piece of jewelry from many rows of small coral beads was also called the "wise necklace". Corals differed in finish, size and quality. Large oval beads of red color, bound with silver were especially appreciated. Girls from wealthy families wore up to 30 coral threads, which were a symbol of their wealth and health.

9 written patsjorki

Blown beads made of painted cheap or expensive Murano glass. The drawing was applied by hand using colored enamels. Sometimes these bright items were encrusted with gold.

10.Hryvna

This short metal necklace resembles a crescent-shaped hoop. The hryvnia was made from gold, silver or inexpensive alloys. It gained popularity in the 10th century and symbolized the status of its owner.

Conclusion

Ukrainian women also loved earrings. Little girls wore brass, while young girls and married ladies preferred silver or gold. Earrings were believed to help relieve headaches. Among the favorite forms, one can distinguish crescents, months, bagels, as well as animal and plant ornaments. And if you supplement the image with embroidery and a lush wreath ... A sight for sore eyes!

Ukrainian women have always been bright and irresistible. Our national jewelry is an unsurpassed masterpiece of folk art. Many of them have not lost their relevance and are waiting in the wings. This is a matter of our pride and sincere admiration. Do you have coral beads or a beaded necklace? We would try on everything from the above list! You need to love yourself and be sure to pamper yourself with beautiful jewelry. In our stores you will find many “precious surprises” and interesting collections. We will be glad to meet you!

And today the embroidered shirt, which is decorated by hand, is rightfully considered a real source of energy and strength. Such blouses and shirts were worn by both women and men, putting on an embroidered shirt on special occasions, holidays, as well as for merry folk festivals. Today embroidery is not only an integral element of the national costume, but also a real trend of the fashion season.

An embroidered blouse or shirt in the Ukrainian style is stylish, prestigious, fashionable and original. Today, at least one hundred author's and folk embroidery techniques are used when decorating it. By the way, embroidery today is not necessarily a short blouse or shirt, it can look like a dress in the Ukrainian style, freely falling, a tunic or midi, belted with a bright patterned sash.

The choice of embroidery today, just as in ancient times, is due to the symbolism and relevance of the ornaments and patterns depicted on the clothes. Geometric strict patterns are more typical for a man's shirt. These are zigzag "scribbles", a brace symbol, embossed diamond-shaped lines and much more in a strict color combination, which is the embodiment of courage, masculinity and strength.

Women's patterns and ornaments amaze the imagination with the ornateness and filigree of delicate works, complex weaving and fantasy. A colorful embroidered shirt can be decorated with natural or floral motifs, openwork interweaving of grapevines, guns, leaves. The colorful embroidery symbolizes youth, femininity, love, tenderness and chastity.

Dresses in Ukrainian style

Today, dresses in Ukrainian style are not only national clothes, but also an independent stylish element of the modern image of an active, refined, businesslike and elegant fashionista. Historically, Ukrainian dress has been identified with tenderness and femininity. Today, dresses in the Ukrainian style demonstrate genuine soulfulness, originality, as well as an exquisite and extraordinary taste.

In order for the dress to truly reflect the ethnic culture of the Ukrainian people, to this day, needlewomen use many different techniques for decorating clothes. Especially popular when creating is the combination of light natural fabric as the basic element of the outfit, as well as contrasting embroidery. Among the most popular techniques are satin stitch and cross-stitch embroidery; for solemn and evening looks, designers use embroidery with ribbons or beads. Such a dress in the Ukrainian style can either completely repeat the national costume of the people, or be a successful stylization under the Ukrainian "folk".

Among the variety of models, the main directions can be distinguished:

• Casual dresses in Ukrainian style. The difference between this outfit is in the unique combination of simplicity of cut, femininity and light decor in the form of embroidery only on the cuffs of the sleeves or the collar.
  
• Dress in Ukrainian style for a cocktail or youth party. It may be a cut, favorite by active youth, repeating a simple tunic, but the presence of decor in the form of embroidery and accessories in the Ukrainian style is mandatory. Such a dress will emphasize good taste.
  Stylish dress in Ukrainian style
• Evening, prom or wedding dress. The most sophisticated cut, expensive natural fabric and lavish satin stitching, satin ribbons or sparkling beads. Such an outfit will not go unnoticed, as it is a skillful and contrasting combination of modern style and national Ukrainian traditions.
  

Why, choosing an original and extraordinary outfit, should the choice fall on the Ukrainian outfit? The answer is simple: at any event, be it a social event, a youth party or a business dinner, Ukrainian motives in the dress guarantee the uniqueness and precious exclusivity of the image.

Shoes and hats

National costume implies not only special clothing, but also complements traditional footwear and hats. In Ukraine, as a rule, footwear was made of genuine leather. We all remember the work of Gogol "Evenings on a Farm near Dikanka", where the charming Oksana asked Vakula to bring her red slivers. It was the red boots made of soft leather with high tops that were the dream of all Ukrainian beauties, but were available only to representatives of a wealthy family or nobility. Poor women, along with men, were content with wrinkles - leather boots tied with ropes so that the bootleg did not fall off while walking or working.

Headwear for women, as a rule, was intended for married women and had to completely cover the hair. The main ones were a kibalka, a scarf or a cap. But young unmarried girls could openly demonstrate their beauty, I decorate my head with only a wreath or a bright satin ribbon. A wider variety of headwear was presented for men.

Accessories

Symbolic jewelry has always been the favorite accessory of Ukrainian women. It is difficult to imagine a full-fledged folk image without. Such decoration has long been considered not only a way to emphasize youth and tenderness. The wreath is still a symbolic talisman today, which is woven according to special rules, where each flower and ribbon of a special color symbolizes any personal qualities, desires or events. For example, young mothers decorated their heads with a wreath of roses, traditional viburnum symbolized female beauty, chamomile - innocence and purity of a girl's soul. Traditionally, 12 flowers were intertwined, symbolizing the character, thoughts and desires of the girl.

Integrity and harmony are determined by correctly selected accessories. Today, a wreath in the Ukrainian style has acquired new outlines and has become an integral part of a bright and stylish image. Apart from the wreath, the Ukrainian female image cannot be imagined without beads. Since ancient times, women of any age wore beads, traditionally red, to celebrations. By the way, such a decoration also had a secret magical meaning. It personified the sun, warmth, and also protected from evil, hatred, envy and temptation. Ukrainians called such beads "namist", decorating themselves not only for the holidays, but also for a traditional family evening. Today, large red beads are a stylish and up-to-date adornment, complementing the charismatic Ukrainian image, bringing bright notes and coloring everyday life.

Today, the most famous world fashion houses use Ukrainian motives when creating their fashion collections.

A sophisticated interpretation of folk elements, embodied in clothes, shoes and accessories, emphasizes the originality and originality of the image in a colorful ethnic style. Each element of the Ukrainian costume is a whole embodiment of the era, a tribute to the traditions of our ancestors. Thanks to such a deep intellectual component, a special Ukrainian harmony is being created.

Many words have been said about the beauty of the Ukrainian national costume. It is not for nothing that the national costume of Ukrainians is considered one of the most colorful and attractive in the whole world. Various jewelry, just like men's, were not just wardrobe items, but also reliable amulets. Today he will acquaint you with the national jewelry of Ukrainians and the functions that they performed.

Various folk decorations can be divided into two types: those worn on the body and those worn over clothing. The first performed ritual and protective functions, protected a person from the evil eye and damage. But the accessories that were worn over clothes were eloquent evidence of the owner's wealth.

Gerdan is a woven chest decoration in the form of two strips of beads, which are connected in front by a medallion. Dressed over the head. It is interesting that earlier this jewelry was worn by both women and men. In the eastern part of the country, gerdans were unknown, but they were widely used in Galicia. Gerdan was considered a powerful talisman; it could not be passed on to another person or given to someone to revile. The ornaments on the gerdan were usually coordinated with the embroidery of a certain area on the shirts.

Braids or silyanki- these are straight strips of beads that are tied at the back of the neck. These ornaments got their name from the method of their manufacture - "sylyannya", stringing beads on a thread. Plaids 2-3 cm thick were everyday decorations of Ukrainian women and served as a talisman. Depending on the ornament, braids could protect from the evil eye and damage, attract good luck or life energy. The Hutsuls sewed a beaded ribbon on a red cloth - it was believed that this increases the protective power of the amulet.

Some of the festive decorations were crises- collars up to 20 cm wide. They adorned the neck, while completely covering the female shoulders and chest. On a holiday, women could wear several collars of different colors, lengths and widths at once.

Zgardy were made of metal and consisted of several rows of strung crosses. They were attached to the back of the neck with the help of two discs - cheprags, on which solar symbols were depicted: a wheel with a pair of spokes or circles. Zgardas were one of the most powerful Ukrainian amulets, and they were worn exclusively under clothing.

Some of the most popular breast adornments in the Hutsul region were rustling- metal necklaces in the form of small bells. Researchers believe that this is the oldest known national decoration.

The cheapest, and therefore the most affordable for the majority of the population were. They were made of multi-colored glass. Large beads were decorated with gold and painted with colored paints.

The category of inexpensive jewelry can also include pearls- necklaces made of translucent glass. As a rule, many pearls of different colors and lengths were worn around the neck.

Coralie consisted of small cylindrical beads strung in several rows. The number of times (rows) could reach 30 pieces. When my father went to the fair toor chobots, then the daughters invariably begged him to bring several rows of corals or patsiorcs. These were, perhaps, the only jewelry available to the common people.

Ducats are nothing more than coins strung on a thread. Could be intertwined with beads. These were some of the most expensive breast ornaments, as they were made from real gold coins. The presence of this decoration emphasized the status of the owner. Ducats were worn only by rich ladies. They also formed the basis of the bride's dowry. They could pay for certain goods, since the cost of such an ornament could reach the annual salary of an average resident of the country.

Dukach or lichman occupied a central place in the entire complex of women's jewelry. Dukach consisted of two parts: a medallion with a hole and a bow, which was tied around the neck. Dukach was not a talisman, however, it was a distinctive sign of wealthy people. This is one of the most expensive Ukrainian jewelry. The medallion was based on gold, gilded and silver coins of various denominations. Special attention was also paid to the Bantu: it could be of different colors, decorated with inserts of glass or precious stones.

As you probably already noticed, Ukrainian national jewelry is very beautiful and colorful. They can be combined with each other in any order, as indeed our ancestors did. Chest jewelry is not forgotten today, and many girls wear them not only to thematic events, but also in everyday life. So, in stores you can often find gerdans, corals, patsorkas, pearls. For obvious reasons, ducats and dukachs today are more museum exhibits than decorations. If your mother or grandmother still has national necklaces, and you do not know what to wear with them, then you need it or any other city. The ethnic style in clothing is especially in demand today, which prompts the interest in previously forgotten Ukrainian embroidered shirts and adornments.

Modern jewelry amazes with its variety of styles, shapes, materials. Among them, recently fashionable necklaces and beads with large coarse beads and other elements, assembled from several threads, attract attention. The source of their design is the ethnic jewelry of the peoples of the world, which have always been distinguished by an abundance of various symbolic components, the purpose of which had its own meaning. Basically, they were amulets that protect against evil forces, and also informed others about the status and wealth of their owner.

The beauty of natural raw materials

In the old days, when ordinary people did not have the opportunity to process the materials from which they made jewelry, their products were rather primitive, from the materials that were available to them. Nowadays there are many lovers of beads and necklaces made of natural raw material, only nowadays such beads are made not from simple, but from semi-precious stones and are refined so that they are pleasant to wear with modern clothes.

History of Ukrainian folk jewelry

The ancient ancestors of the Slavs created their jewelry from materials that were given to them by rich vegetation. Until now, we are familiar with necklaces collected from the fruits of mountain ash, nuts, large seeds and other gifts of the forest. In the Trypillian period, crafts began to develop, which made it possible to make more complex multi-tiered jewelry from clay, amber, coral, and pearls.

In the Middle Ages, when coinage developed, jewelry became very popular, which included numerous coins and various forms of pendants. These jewelry were worn by women of different classes, since the metal of the coins and the design of the necklace could be very simple, or they could have a very high price, available only to the most noble families. Jewelry in this style attracts fashionistas in our time.
Famous designers create their masterpieces from coins and pendants for wealthy customers, among whom there are often popular artists. Folk craftswomen, whose products are distinguished by originality and novelty, are not lagging behind.

With the advent of the wonderful multi-colored beads, which merchants brought for our needlewomen, it entered the Ukrainian costume monisto, woven from beads with ornaments that protect the girl from evil forces and bring happiness. Such decoration in a more modern form can often be seen on Ukrainian women of fashion.

Types of Ukrainian jewelry

The Ukrainian style in jewelry is represented by products that have come down to us from the ancient past and have little-known names, although the jewelry itself is worn with pleasure by Ukrainian women and not only, complementing and enlivening modern clothes with them. The most interesting are hryvnias, gerdans, dukachs and kryzy, which should be given special attention.

Hryvnia is called a short necklace in the form of a hoop, shaped like a crescent moon. The hryvnia was made of metal. It could be gold, if its owner is wealthy enough, and for the middle class - merchants and burghers, they made grivnas from silver and tin. It was a beautiful, heavy, expensive piece of jewelry that emphasized the wealth of the owner, so the hryvnia became very common in the 10th century and later.

It is not often possible to find gerdan - a very interesting and beautiful wickerwork, creating a Ukrainian ethnic ornament that resembles embroidery throughout the decoration. Gerdan serves as a talisman thanks to the magical symbol embedded in the ornament.

Dukach was worn by Ukrainian women in the last century, and now it is an almost forgotten decoration. It is a piece of jewelry in the form of a pendant made of a medal or large coin on chains. The pendant was attached to a necklace made of coral, beads, pearls, or hung around the neck on a wide ribbon over numerous beads. Dukachs were made from gold, silver, copper and other metals, so they were widespread in all strata of society.

The rat is a luxurious beaded jewelry in the form of a very wide collar that covers the shoulders. The rat is woven with colorful patterns. It takes a lot of skill and a lot of work to create such a stunningly beautiful piece of jewelry. The rat will make even the simplest clothes elegant and attractive.