Vintage clothing. Learning to sew underwear

Pantaloons are underwear such as tights from the waist to the knees. Clothing has been known by this name since the 40s. XVII century and got its name from the traditional character of the Italian farcical theater Pantaleone, who wore tight pants.

At the end of the 18th century, pantaloons became longer, which led to their wearing on straps (suspenders), which became part of European costume. Subsequently, this type of clothing also began to be used by women as a kind of underwear.

Today, the pantaloons have changed, become shorter, but they still remain in the wardrobe of many women as home underwear, which is very comfortable to wear, since it does not hinder movement. Pantaloons, trimmed at the bottom with lace, with a touch of retro style, perfectly emphasize the female figure and are at the peak of popularity.

Meanwhile, it is not difficult to sew such pantaloons according to our pattern.

Rice. 1. Pattern of women's pantaloons.

Pattern of women's pantaloons: take measurements

To build a pattern-base for women's pantaloons, you need (size 48):

• Waist circumference - 72 cm
• Hip girth - 98 cm
• Seat height - 26 cm
• Hips height - 21 cm

Pattern of women's pantaloons: building the base

We start construction from the upper left corner, stepping back down and to the right (the drawing will continue to the left and up - see Fig. 1. Pattern of women's pantaloons).

From point A downwards, set aside 26 cm (Seat height as measured) - point A1, from point A1 downwards set aside 3 cm for all sizes. Draw horizontal lines to the right and left from the obtained points.

From point A1 upwards, set aside 1/10 of 1/2 Hip circumference +3 cm for all sizes: 98/2/10 + 3 = 7.9 cm (round up to 8 cm). From the resulting point, draw a horizontal line - the line of the hips. From point A1, to the right, set aside 1/10 of the hip girth according to the measure - point A4 is obtained. Draw a vertical line up from point A4.

Along the line of the hips, set aside 1/2 of the girth of the hips, divide it in half and draw vertical lines upward (we got 2 halves of the pantaloons).

Pattern of the front half of the pantaloons

From point B, put to the right 1/10 of 1/2 Hip circumference +1.5 cm: 98/2/10 + 1.5 = 6.4 cm (round up to 6.5 cm) - point B1. BB2 = 1 / 2BB1. Draw the middle line of the front half of the pantaloons along the pattern.

Tighten the front half of the pantaloons along the bottom line by 1 cm.

Tighten the pantaloons by 1.5 cm along the waist line (from the middle seam). From point 1.5, set aside to the left 1/4 of the waist circumference according to the measurement. Raise the barrel line 1 cm up. Draw the line of the side of the front of the pantaloons along the pattern.

Pattern of the back half of the pantaloons

A1A4 = 9.8 cm (1/10 of the measured hips).

Along the middle seam of the back half of the pantaloons from the waistline, set aside 3 cm to the right. Draw the middle seam of the back half of the pantaloons on the template, continue it up by 4 cm. From point 4, set aside 1/4 of the waist circumference to measure. The side line must be raised by 1 cm. Draw the waist line and the side line of the back half of the pantaloons along the pattern.

Tighten the pantaloons along the bottom by 1 cm. Set aside 2 cm along the side line from the bottom. Draw the bottom line of the pantaloons along the pattern.

Thus, we have built a pantalon pattern, which is the main one.

Pattern of women's pantaloons: what to sew from?

Pantaloons are underwear, which is why you need to choose natural fabrics that are not only comfortable, but also will not irritate the skin, causing discomfort. Fabrics such as natural silk with the addition of elastane, cotton jersey, silk jersey are best suited for pantaloons.

For finishing, you can use lace or stitching.

Calculation of fabric for pantaloons

For pantaloons, one fabric length + 5 cm is required. Measure the finished pattern from the highest point to the lowest point, add 5 cm - this is your measure of the fabric for the pantaloons.

Pattern of women's pantaloons: how to sew

Sweep and grind side and crotch seams with an overlock stitch. Tuck the top of the pantaloons, making a drawstring for the elastic, sew, leaving an unstitched area for threading in the elastic, thread in the elastic of the required length, stitch the unstitched area.

Sew lace on the bottom of the pantaloons. If desired, you can also sew 2 flat thin elastic bands along the bottom.

IMPORTANT! The pattern of the pantaloons is given exactly according to the figure! Pantaloons are sewn only from elastic fabric!

Your pantaloons are ready! Wear it and be happy!

In the process of writing a masterclass, this is what happened:

To do it too, you need:

1. Take tracing paper / Whatman paper / old newspaper and draw a pattern there. Here's one.

OB means hip circumference. No other measurements are needed.

2. Buy:
- Baptiste. 50cm if the width is more than 2 the width of your pattern, if less.
- Threads.
- Elastic band, about 2 meters.
- Lace - I have 3.5 meters.
- Ribbons, bows, flowers.

3. Wash and iron the fabric so that it shrinks now, not when you wash your pantaloons.

4. Since the concepts along and across are purely individual, use ingenuity and fold in half, face inward, so that the pattern fits. Put the pattern so that the edge of the fabric is parallel to its vertical lines. Circle along the contour. Draw seam allowances - draw a line at a distance of 1 cm from the contour on the sides and 2.5 cm from the contour along the upper and lower edges. By the way, do not forget to cut the pattern before this, otherwise the trick will not work.

5. Take one half, fold the right side inward, combine and sew short straight sections. Press the seam open. Fold the allowances inward and sew along the edge. So that nothing scratches my feet. It turned out to be a pant leg. If you do the same with the second half, then you get two legs. Just what we need.

6. Turn one leg to the right side, leave the other inside out. The one that was turned inside out, put into the one that was not turned inside out. Sew along the long, curved edge. Press the seam allowances inward and sew at the edge. Again, so as not to itch. Bend the seam to one side and press it on. Try to put on pantaloons, make sure that everything is fine with the size.

7. Fold up the top edge. There is specially 2.5 cm so that you can bend it 2 times and insert another gum. Iron on. Sew. Remember to leave a hole for the elastic. Do the same for the bottom edges.

8. Take the lace, cut it in half, because we need 2 legs. Fold into a ring so that one end overlaps the other by 0.5 cm. Zigzag over this area. Along the top edge of the resulting lace ring, lay a stitch (straight, not zigzag) with the longest stitch length. This line is needed to collect lace. We pull on the bobbin thread until the ring is equal in size to the leg. We tie the threads together, evenly distribute the folds. We apply the assembled lace to the lower edge of the leg so that very little, about 3mm, goes over it, and sew to it. It is more convenient to sew in a zigzag, then the assemblies do not interfere. The second leg will be easier.

9. We put in an elastic band. Sew on bows and flowers. We put it on, we rejoice.

And further. If there is no suitable wide lace in the store, it can be made by sewing together several narrow ones. Or alternate them with ribbons to make it look like in the original pantaloons.

If the pictures are not visible, they can be viewed

For sewing we need:

Sewing machine
- Scissors
- Overlock (it is possible without it)
- Threads
- Thread "spandex" (sold in a regular handicraft store for 20r per spool (25m))
- Calico (30X70cm)
- Cotton lace
- Elastic band (I have a width of 0.5cm) -33cm with an allowance

Spandex Thread:

1. Print and cut. (Form sheet A4)

2. Unfold the fabric to the same width as the pattern. (This makes the fabric folded in half). Attach a pattern to the fold (where it says "fold").

3. Step back 2 cm from the top edge.
4. Draw a pencil around the pattern. Make a contour taking into account the allowance. Cut along the edge and do the same for the second part of the pantaloons.

5. Then chop off with pins and cut along the contour with allowances, both parts at once, ie. 4 layers of fabric. (allowance 0.7-1 cm)

6. It turned out 2 such, future trousers:

7. Overcast (I overcast from all sides at once)

8. Measure the lace equal to the length of the bottom of the trousers.

9. Sew on lace.

10. Wrap the spandex thread on the bobbin tightly, insert it into the machine. A regular thread goes from above.

11.and put a line on the face at a distance of 0.5-0.7 mm from the edge of the lace

12. It turns out such 2 legs, face and wrong side. From the inside, we have the thread "Spandex"

14. Now turn the legs inside out, fold the seams face to face, pin them. And we chop off the entire seam. We grind.

15. We got such trousers.

16. Next, pin the upper edge of the trousers for the future elastic with pins about 2 cm.

17. We sew, leaving a hole for the elastic.

18. Fasten the end of the elastic with a safety pin

19. We drag in a circle, sew the 2 ends of the elastic and cover the hole.

20. These are the pantaloons.

21. And on the doll

Hello dear friends. I thought for a long time where to start ... when approaching "large" products ... and decided to start with leggings ... Why? ... It's just that, in my opinion, it's easier ...)))

Then, when we learn and understand how a leggings pattern is built, on its basis it will be possible to make patterns for tights, panties, shorts, trousers ...

So, let's begin…

Measurements that we need (I put my own measurements, you will have other numbers, like):

• SB - half the circumference of the thighs = 54
• CI - the length of the product (measured on the side of the waist down the leg) = 104
• OH - leg circumference (measured at the bottom line of the leggings) = 22
• Length from waist to waist through groin = 74

When constructing any pattern, such a concept as a grid is used. What it is? Yes, it's just a rectangle, inside which the pattern is placed ... In our case, the width of the mesh is equal to half the circumference of the hips, SHS = SB = 54 cm

Drawing leggings

Construct a rectangle, the width of which is equal to the width of the mesh SHS = SB = 54cm, and the height is equal to the length of the product CI = 104cmStep line ... From the waistline vertically down to postpone half length from waist to waist through groin 74/2 = 37 cm. Connect the points.Side line ... Divide the width of the mesh along the waist line in half and draw a vertical line to the bottom line.Back half waistline ... Continue the back seam line up beyond the waistline by 2-5 cm (take 3cm). connect point 3cm with the point of "halving" on the waist lineInner seam line ... From the side line along the bottom line to the left and right, set aside half the measurement OH = 22/2 = 11cm (in each direction). Connect the resulting points to the width point on the step lineIt remains to circle along the contour)))

Gusset

Option number 1

• Gusset length = SB / 2 = 54/2 = 27 cm.
• Gusset width = 14-15 cm.

Option number 2 (dimensions are the same, the principle of construction is different)

It is used when it is necessary to increase the width of the leggings around the circumference of the leg at the groin (for a full leg)

Option number 3 (for children's leggings)

In small children, usually, the girth of the hips coincides with the girth of the chest (but this is optional) to calculate the gusset, we take 1/6 of the girth of the chest or hips, suppose that OG = OB = 30 cm, which means 1/6 OG or OB = 30 / 6 = 5 cm. Just build a square with a side = 5 cm.

Well, that's all for today))) So the drawing is being built (pattern))) I hope that I drew everything clearly))) And if not, then write ... 8O

Lingerie is the most intimate wardrobe item. Having gone through many years of transformation, having experienced all the changes in tastes, attitudes and moral principles, the linen has taken the form to which we are accustomed.

Varieties of female models of panties

Women's panties have recently acquired a familiar and familiar look for us. A few decades ago, the most common model was pantaloons - voluminous shorts from the waist to the knee or mid-thigh. Such linen was decorated with decorative ribbons, ruffles, lace. They preferred to sew them from natural fabrics - cotton, silk, satin.

Modern industry offers women a huge variety of different models of panties: slips, thongs, bikinis, tankinis, brazilian, culottes, shorts.

Linen is sewn not only from natural fabrics - most of the models are elastic, the material in the composition has a large proportion of artificial fibers, which, however, does not in any way affect the environmental friendliness and benefits of wearing such clothes.

Popular models

The most popular among women are two models: slips and shorts.

Slips are comfortable for everyday wear. The high cut on the thighs allows them to be worn with dresses or sundresses with a slit, and the fully closed buttocks ensure their wearer's comfort. In such underwear, you can not be afraid that the wind will flaunt the intimate parts of the body.

The shorts are comfortable and even more closed. They are preferred to be worn under a sports uniform, jeans, leggings. The length of such a model of underwear can vary: the panties can cover the buttocks or leave them half open. In addition, not only tight-fitting models are common, but also looser ones, richly decorated with ruffles, lace and multi-layered ribbons.

You can sew these shorts yourself. Ready-made patterns of panties, women or men, greatly facilitate the work of the seamstress. And learning to build a pattern for your parameters is not at all difficult.

Taking measurements

The finished pattern of women's panties most often consists of two symmetrical parts and a lining on the gusset. To build a correct and competent pattern, you need to take measurements.

For size 48, the measurements will be as follows:

• (72 cm);
• hip circumference (98 cm);
• seat side height (26 cm). This height is measured while sitting on a chair from the waist to the under-crease. Or - from the waist to the line of the beginning of the pubic bone in a standing position.

Building a pattern

Start to build a pattern from the upper left corner. Point T is marked there. Strictly downward from this point, it is necessary to postpone 26 cm (this is the height of the seat according to the previously taken measurement). The length of the gusset is also deposited: LL1 = hip girth, divided by 10 - 1 cm. Three long horizontal lines are drawn from the three points T, L, L1 obtained.

From point L1 horizontally to the right, a quarter of the hip girth is laid down - 1.5 cm. Point B is marked. From this point, a vertical line is drawn, point B1 is marked.

Size BB1 ​​= 21 cm minus the height of the hip as measured.

The construction of the waist line starts from point T. To the right side, measure a quarter of the waist and mark point T1. T1 and point B2 are connected to each other.

The construction of the upper line for the panties begins at point T. Down from it 7 cm is deposited, from T1 along the straight line T1B2 6 cm is deposited. These points T and T1 are connected by a straight line.

The side line will be equal to T2T3, this is 4 cm.

The gusset seam is built from C1 up and down. The same distance is laid in both directions - 2.2 cm (this is a quarter of the obtained gusset length).

The side seam of women's panties is equal to T2T3 = 4 cm.

From the points that have turned out as a result, horizontal lines are drawn to the right. Length - 3.5 cm. These obtained points are connected to T3.

Look at the diagram: the left side is the front pattern, the right side is the back pattern, the black lines are auxiliary, crimson are the main ones, along which they are cut. The first horizontal line is OT, the second is OB, the vertical crimson is the seat height.

The resulting pattern makes it easy to sew panties-shorts for women. The pattern is simple. You can change it by increasing or decreasing the sides on the buttocks, the height along the back or in the front.

The patterns of panties, women's in the first place, are very diverse. According to the standard scheme, varying sizes and cut, seamstresses create new models that are more comfortable and feminine than those that were previously known.

Cutting and sewing

After constructing a pattern for women's panties, they begin to cut the fabric. Here you need to be careful not to spoil the model. How to sew women's panties? The pattern is transferred to the fabric. For shorts for novice needlewomen, it is best to take material that does not stretch very much. If you have experience in sewing, then it is necessary to take into account that the pattern must be transferred to the fabric so that the stretching is along the fabric in the horizontal direction. In this case, the model will fit perfectly on the hips.

The cut parts are sewn together. Using simple patterns of panties (female or male models), you can learn how to sew interesting underwear on your own.