Making jewelry to order. Signs of Jewelry All About Precious Metal Jewelry

Order from the catalog

Buy the jewelry you like from our catalog, which contains more than 2000 items of the most diverse style and design.

Please note that during the execution of this order, at your request, we can make any necessary additions to it (change the shade of the metal, use other inserts, etc.).

Create according to your sample, ideas

Create your own original jewelry according to your own idea. Our designers will listen to all your wishes and ideas, draw a detailed sketch, on the basis of which an accurate model will be made (we use 3d modeling).

You will receive an exclusive jewelry made of gold or platinum exactly according to your dreams!

At this stage, we discuss in detail with you the idea of ​​the design of the future jewelry. Our managers will listen to you in detail and see examples of the products you like.

Subsequently, on their basis, our designers will develop sketches and a layout of the future jewelry.

When developing a design, you need to consider:

• Jewelry style (classic, modern or replica);
• Precious metal color (yellow, red, pink, or white);
• Future size and weight of the product
• Presence, quantity, color and shape of precious stones.

The choice of gemstones is a very important step. Each gem, diamond, ruby ​​or alexandrite has its own personality and characteristics. It will delight you and your loved ones for many decades. Our managers will help you understand the characteristics of stones, explain the principle of their pricing. Let the choice of stone be deliberate and fully meet your requirements.

Again, this is entirely your choice.

The most popular metals are 585 or 750 gold, in different shades: white, yellow and red.

You can also order items made of platinum or silver. Our managers will be happy to advise you on the properties and prices of gold and platinum.

It is important to understand!

Pure gold of 999 assay value can only be yellow.

Gold of 585 assay value means that the pure gold in the alloy is 58.5%, the rest is made up of other metals.

Various shades of gold are given by the so-called ligatures. Ligatures are other metals, with the help of which gold acquires red, white or other shades.

Silver, copper, zinc and other metals are used as ligatures.

The ANALYSIS CHAMBER OF THE RUSSIAN FEDERATION is engaged in confirming the composition of the alloy as well as the part which is pure gold in the metal. The percentage of pure gold is confirmed by affixing a state sample of 585 or 750 samples in the assay chamber.

Manufacturing time- 3-5 business days.

Your jewelry is embodied in wax, complex pieces are made of wax piece by piece.

Depending on the specifics of the future product, our craftsmen choose the way to implement the wax model.

The accuracy of wax models reaches several microns.

After all parts of the product are ready, our craftsmen begin to embody the finished product. All parts are ground, adjusted to each other, and also prepared for the subsequent insertion of precious stones.

Then we cover the metal with a thin layer of up to 3 microns, additional coating, gold or rhodium atoms. This coating allows you to enhance the shine of the product, as well as enhance its protection against micro-scratches. The effect is achieved by blocking the smallest and invisible scratches to the eye.

For the manufacture of jewelry, as a rule, not pure metals are used, but alloys, adding other metals to the former in certain proportions. These metals are called alloying metals or ligatures.
Both precious and non-precious metals can be alloyed, but the resulting alloys are called precious. In jewelry, three types of alloys are usually used: gold, silver, platinum.
The content of the base precious metal in the alloy is its sample. The assay of precious metals arose in Russia under Peter I due to the need to control the consumption of precious metals, determining their amount in a particular alloy.
All jewelry made of precious metals intended for sale must comply with one of the tests valid in Russia and have a stamp.
In the Russian spool system, the following samples were taken: for gold - 36, 48, 56, 72, 82, 92, 94; for silver - 72, 76, 84, 88th.
In 1927, the spool sample system was replaced with a metric one. It shows the amount of pure precious metal per kilogram of alloy.
In the metric system of samples, the following samples were taken:
... for gold - 375, 500, 583, 750, 958 and 999th;
... for silver - 750, 800, 875, 916;
... for platinum - 950;
... for palladium - 500, 850th.
Products with the above samples are found in the practice of jewelry workshops, pawnshops, antique stores and among the population.
Currently, the following jewelry samples are in effect in the Russian Federation:
... for gold - 375, 500, 585, 750, 958 and 999th;
... for silver - 800, 830, 875, 925, 960 and 999th;
... for platinum - 850, 900 and 950;
... for palladium - 500, 850th.
In the metric system, alloys differ, first of all, in the percentage of precious metal, in color and other properties. The color of gold is not indicated on the product tags. The most common names are: white gold, pale gold, yellow gold, green gold, red gold.
To distinguish gold alloys in Russia, samples are taken indicating the amount of precious metal contained in 1000 parts of the alloy. Samples are usually marked with an "o" at the end of the numerical designation.
In addition to the metric system, some countries have adopted the carat sampling system, which is calculated from 24 alloy units. For example, 14k means that 24 units of alloy contain 14 units of pure gold. When comparing the carat and spool systems, it can be seen that the carat sample is one fourth of the spool sample. To convert the sample from the carat system to the spool system, it must be multiplied by four. It is more difficult to convert the carat system to the metric system and vice versa. Imported gold items should contain only one word “gold” on the price tags, indicating the sample, usually in carats.
All jewelry made of precious metals made at jewelry factories is tested. The analysis of products and alloys made of precious metals is usually carried out in the following ways:
... on an assay stone, using assay reagents, which allow probing a product without destroying it;
... the muffle method, which is based on the separation of a pure precious metal from the alloy sample, by which the amount of precious metal in the alloy is determined (the integrity of the product is thereby violated).
When accepting jewelry in pawnshops, electronic probing is most often used. In addition, there are other methods for determining the compliance of the original alloy composition with the one declared in the stigma.
Two of them are discussed in detail here: mechanical (on the touchstone) and electronic.
The mechanical method is based on the ability of gold-containing alloys to change their color under the action of acidic reagents, depending on the percentage of pure gold in them. The mechanical method is carried out using a test stone, a needle and assay reagents.
The test stone is a black siliceous slate without cracks and foreign inclusions, fine-grained structure, with an evenly polished surface. The stone must have a good ability to resist acids: nitric, sulfuric, hydrochloric and their mixtures.
Assay needles of various purities and shades are made in assay laboratories. They are made from carefully tested materials. Assay needles are strips of precious alloys soldered to brass plates, on which the sample of this needle is indicated. For each sample, there is a set of needles that differ in color due to the difference in the alloying metal content.
To determine gold alloys, 375, 500, 585, 750, 900, 916 and 958 samples are used. The ligature may contain silver and copper. For the 375th and 500th samples, there are 6 numbers of needles of different contents of alloying components and color.
For the 585th test, 15 numbers of needles are used: the first is a gold-silver alloy, the last is 15, gold-copper. To determine gold alloys of 585th test white, needles are used, which, in addition to gold, include platinum, palladium, silver, nickel, zinc in various ratios.
For the 750th sample, five assay needle numbers are used. As in the previous case, to determine white gold products, needles are used, in the ligature of which platinum, palladium, silver, nickel, zinc.
Intermediate sample needles are used to determine coin and denture alloys. Needles 900-th test - gold-copper alloy (coin), 916-th test - triple alloy (denture).
For the determination of silver alloys, needles made of silver-copper alloys of various samples are used. These are needles 800, 830, 875, 925, 960. For the determination of intermediate silver alloys, - 700, 750, and 900-th samples.
To determine platinum products, needles of three samples are used: 850, 900 and 950 (needles of the 970th and 980th samples can also be used).
Assay reagents are chloric gold or aqueous solutions of acids, mixtures of acids, or salt solutions, with which the surface of the tested alloy is tested. On alloys above the specified sample, the reagent does not leave any trace, on alloys of the specified sample - a slight shadow, on alloys below the specified sample it leaves a "burn" (dark spot), its intensity depends on the difference in the samples.
During assaying of items made of precious metals, the test stone is smeared with almond, nut or bone oil and wiped dry.
If the stone was in use, it is pre-cleaned with a pumice stone. A dense line 15–20 mm long and 2–3 mm wide is applied to the surface of the stone with the investigated product. Then the same line is applied side by side with an assay needle of the same precious metal and similar in color. With the appropriate reagent, using a reactive stick, the traces left by precious metals are moistened, crossing them across. Excess reagent is removed with filter paper and the stone is allowed to dry. According to the intensity of the sediment (stain), the correspondence of the product sample to the assay needle is determined. If the stains left by the reagent are the same, then the sample of the product corresponds to the sample of the selected needle. If the intensity of precipitation is different, then the track with a darker spot shows a lower one in relation to another sample.
When mass assaying products, several parallel lines are applied to the test stone with various products of a homogeneous metal and next to it - a line with an assay needle. Then all traces are treated with a reagent across and by spots similar to the spot on the line drawn by the assay needle, the products are selected. With the rest of the products, the process is repeated using a needle of a different sample.
Chlorine gold solution is used as reagents for gold products - for probing alloys up to 585th sample, acid reagents - for 375, 500, 750, 900, 916 and 958th samples. Acidic reagents are created for each sample of the precious metal, since the reagent of one sample does not affect the alloy of the highest standard, and darker spots remain on the alloy of the lower sample, and not light, as is usually the case when exposed to an acidic reagent.
A solution of potassium dichromate is used as reagents for silver products - to determine alloys above the 600th test, a solution of silver nitrate - for 800, 830, 875, 925 and 960th samples.
As reagents for platinum products, the same acidic reagent is used as for 958 gold.
To determine a sample of an unknown alloy, a solution of gold chloride is usually used. The approximate sample of the product is determined by the nature of the stain. On alloys of 585 and above, the stain does not remain; on alloys below 585, chlorine gold leaves a slight tint, the intensity of which increases with a decrease in the gold content in the alloy. With a decrease in the alloy sample, the stain darkens, taking on a brown color: for the 500th sample it is chestnut, for the 375th sample it is dirty green-yellow. On white gold of 585-th test, the precipitate from chlorine gold is yellow-golden in color.
Chlorine gold stains silver alloys from dark green to black, depending on the copper content.
Platinum is not affected by gold chloride.
For the qualitative determination of silver not lower than the 600th sample, a solution of potassium dichromate is used. A dark red spot forms on the line of the silver alloy. With an increase in the silver sample, the precipitate becomes lighter and brighter.
For the qualitative and quantitative determination of silver 750, 800, 830, 875, 925 and 960th samples, a solution of silver nitrate is used. Under its influence, a grayish-white bloom is formed on the line of the silver alloy, which, with a decrease in the sample, becomes stronger and acquires a gray-ash color.
The presence of silver in alloys can be detected by the action of a drop of nitric acid, and then on the same place - a drop of hydrochloric acid. The formation of a curdled precipitate (silver chloride) confirms the presence of silver in the alloy.
When determining platinum alloys, a solution of potassium iodide is used. On the line of the platinum alloy, the reagent leaves a dark precipitate. The lower the platinum sample, the darker the precipitate. As with gold alloys, sampling is done in comparison to assay needles. Potassium iodide has no effect on technically pure platinum.
When using the mechanical method, you must perform the following steps:
1. Draw a line 2-4 mm wide and 25 mm long on the touchstone with the test item.
2. Nearby on both sides of the line in the same way draw lines with assay needles of approximately the same composition (similar sample and color).
3. Using a glass rod, apply a drop of the assay reagent (acid) corresponding to the sample, and with a slight vibration of the stone, observe the speed of its action. Before the end of the reaction, blot the acid with white filter paper.
Most often, 585 and 750 gold samples are used for probing. When the reagent "585" is applied to the strip from the 585 sample product, after 15 seconds, a slight shadow tint can be observed, and no changes are observed on the strip from the sample 750 sample.
When the reagent "750" is applied to the strip from the 585-sample product, a black spot appears in 15 seconds, and a slight shadow appears on the strip from the 750-sample product.
After the experiment, the strokes from the touchstone must be removed with aqua regia, lump pumice soaked in water, and after drying, grease with almond or other vegetable oil.
The electronic method is based on the use of the Goldtester electronic device. The device "Goldtester", the diagram of which is shown in Fig. 3.1, allows to identify gold of all standard samples below 750, high-grade platinum alloys and to distinguish them from coated base metal products.
The Goldtester device includes:
... an electronic unit with an indicator of the state of readiness of the device for operation displayed on the top panel, buttons for switching on and starting a second measurement, a light scale with standard samples of precious metals in products, a clip;
... a probe consisting of a ring, a body, a solution supply handle, a tip, a solution bottle;
... network adapter;
... scraper.
The procedure for conducting an experiment using an electronic device is as follows:
1. After studying the technical passport of the "Goldtester" device, the plug of the mains adapter must be plugged into the socket of the electronic unit, and the adapter into the mains.
2. Connect the probe plug to the device socket.
3. Switch on the device by pressing the "ON" button.
The result of switching on is reflected on the status indicator. Green blinking of the indicator indicates the readiness of the device for measurements, red - means undervoltage.
4. Prepare the probe for operation, for which:
... remove the protective cap from the probe;
... remove gas from the tip.
To do this, the probe is turned with its tip upwards, and after light tapping with fingers on the body, small gas bubbles are collected near the outlet channel into one large bubble. Turning the knob of the sample solution supply clockwise, the accumulated gas must be squeezed out. The presence of bubbles in the channel of the probe is unacceptable, as it can lead to an error in measurements.
5. Prepare a sample for measurements, for which:
... thoroughly clean the surface of the investigated product from traces of dirt, grease, varnish, etc .;
... connect the item under test to the clamp so that the connection provides reliable electrical contact.
6. Carry out measurements, for which:
... make sure the device is ready for measurements (green blinking of the indicator);
... lightly touch the test sample with the tip of the probe perpendicular to its surface, while the solution should wet the surface area with a diameter of 1 ... 3 mm;
... Make sure that the assay solution from the probe never gets onto the clamp of the device!
If all actions are performed correctly, the green blinking will change to a continuous glow of the status indicator, which indicates the beginning of measurements. If the measurements are completed successfully, the indicator will go out, and the measurement result will be indicated on the light scale. Measurement duration 5 ... 7 s.
7. After the experiment, release the test specimen from the clamp.
8. Wipe the clip with a special tissue.
9. Switch off the device by pressing the button.
10. Close the probe with the protective cap to prevent leakage of the assay liquid.
11. Remove the probe plug from the device socket.
12. Disconnect the device from the mains.

According to the Federal Law "On Precious Metals and Precious Stones" dated March 26, 1998 No. 41-FZ, precious (noble) metals currently used for making jewelry include gold, silver, platinum and five platinum group metals (palladium , iridium, rhodium, ruthenium, osmium).

Gold is a yellow metal, with a strong luster, ductile (one gram of gold can be drawn into a thread up to three kilometers long), has significant mechanical strength and chemical resistance, does not interact with atmospheric oxygen, and is resistant to acids and alkalis. Gold dissolves only in aqua regia (a mixture of HN0 3 and HC1 in a ratio of 1: 3). Density -19 320 kg / m 3, melting point - 1,064 ° C. Gold is a very soft metal, its hardness on the Mohs scale is 2.5 (the relative Mohs hardness is given in section 2.3). In nature, gold is found in its native form or in the form of gold-bearing ores (alloys of gold, silver, copper and other metals). Despite the fact that gold has high malleability, viscosity and ductility, it is not used in its pure form for the production of jewelry, but is used only in the form of alloys. An exception may be the application of gold plating to jewelry.

Silver is a white, shiny, very malleable and ductile metal; possesses the highest reflectivity (up to 95%), is a good conductor of electricity and heat, is rolled into thin sheets up to 0.00025 mm thick and drawn into the finest wire. Density - 10,500 kg / m 3, melting point - 961.9 ° C. Mohs scale hardness - 2.7. Does not possess the chemical resistance characteristic of all other precious metals. Reacts with both acids and alkalis, turns black in the presence of hydrogen sulfide in air or water, forming a characteristic patina. In nature, silver is mainly found in lead-zinc ores. In the production of jewelry, silver is used as the main component of silver alloys, as a master alloy for gold and palladium alloys, and also for coating items made of cupronickel and nickel silver.

Platinum is a silvery-white, malleable metal, chemically resistant, insoluble in acids (except aqua regia); has a high density - 21 450 kg / m 3, a high melting point - 1772 ° C. Mohs scale hardness - 4.2. Platinum is found naturally in its native state. In the jewelry industry it is used as the main component of platinum alloys, as well as a component of the master alloy of gold alloys.

Palladium is a silver-white metal, in nature it is found together with platinum in its native state, as well as in the composition of gold-bearing, sulfide-copper and sulfide-nickel ores. Malleable, ductile metal, rolls well into thin sheets and wire. Density - 12,020 kg / m 3, melting point - 1,552 ° C. Mohs scale hardness - 4.8. It dissolves in nitric acid, a mixture of nitric and hydrochloric acids. In jewelry it is used as the main component of palladium alloys, as well as a master alloy for gold and platinum alloys. The use of palladium as an alloying metal in the gold-silver-palladium alloy has introduced a new term - "white gold", which emphasizes the discoloration (in relation to gold) ability of platinum group metals. Recently, palladium has been considered promising for making jewelry from fancy color alloys. Also used as a component of high temperature solders.

Iridium is a white metal with a gray tint, very hard, but brittle. Chemically resistant - it is not affected by acids and alkalis. It has very high density (22 420 kg / m 3) and melting point (2450 ° C). Mohs scale hardness - 6.5. Possesses significant chemical resistance, which makes it possible to use this metal for the manufacture of chemical glassware. In jewelry it is used as an alloying metal in platinum alloys.

Rhodium is a brittle, pale blue metal. It is similar in appearance to aluminum. It dissolves in concentrated sulfuric acid, but a mixture of nitric and hydrochloric acids (aqua regia) does not affect rhodium. Due to its good reflectivity (reflectance 75-80%) and high hardness (on the Mohs scale - 6.5), it is used to coat gold and silver items, including white gold items, to provide durability and protection from tarnishing. Density - 12 420 kg / m 3, melting point - 1 960 ° С.

Ruthenium is a silvery-white metal similar in appearance to platinum, but harder and more brittle. Density -12,370 kg / m 3, melting point - 2,950 ° С, hardness on the Mohs scale - 7.0. Possesses high chemical resistance. It can be used as a component of platinum alloys.

Osmium-white, metal with a gray-blue tint, refractory, the melting point is the highest of the platinum group metals - 3 047 ° C, heavy, density - 22 480 kg / m 3, hard, brittle - cannot be machined. The chemical properties do not differ from ruthenium. Can be added to platinum alloys to give them hardness and elasticity.

The main physical properties of precious metals are presented in table.

Physical properties of precious metals

Pure precious metals are either relatively soft and do not have sufficient wear resistance, especially gold and silver, or brittle like iridium or osmium. In addition, for certain types of jewelry work, they do not have the necessary manufacturability due to the high melting temperature. Finally, precious metals are relatively expensive. The totality of these reasons determine the fact that in their pure form these metals are rarely used in the manufacture of jewelry and other household items. An exception is the application of a coating of gold, rhodium or silver to give the products a more beautiful appearance.

In the manufacture of jewelry, various alloys are used, obtained by adding other metals in certain proportions to precious metals, called alloying metals, and their mixtures - ligature. Both precious and non-precious metals can be alloyed, but the resulting alloys are always considered precious.

Using the selection of alloying components, alloys can be given various predetermined qualities, for example, color, hardness, plasticity, melting point, casting properties, resistance to chemical processing, etc. exploitation. Silver, platinum, palladium, iridium and rhodium (noble metals), as well as non-precious non-ferrous metals (copper, nickel, cadmium and zinc) are most often used as alloying metals in the creation of various jewelry alloys. In the manufacture of some types of products, alloys can be used in which other metals are used as alloying additions.

Silver as an alloying metal gives gold alloys softness, malleability, lowers the melting point and changes the color of gold. As the proportion of silver increases, the color of the alloy acquires a greenish tint, for example, the alloy ZlCr750-250 (table).

Platinum significantly increases the melting point of the alloy, making it harder and more elastic. The addition of platinum (and platinum group metals) changes the color of the gold alloy to white.

The addition of copper increases the hardness of the gold alloy while maintaining ductility and ductility. The alloy acquires a reddish hue, which intensifies as the copper content increases. However, copper reduces the corrosion resistance of the alloy.

Palladium, like platinum, raises the melting point of the alloy and changes its color to white, although not so dramatically. With the addition of palladium, the gold alloy becomes harder and more wear-resistant, as well as more convenient (technological) for manual jewelry processing.

Zinc, on the contrary, sharply lowers the melting point of the alloy, but increases its fluidity in the molten state, gives the alloy brittleness and a greenish tint.

Each alloying material plays a role in determining the characteristics of the alloy. Therefore, it is always possible to select such an alloy formulation, when using which the jewelry item will meet the requirements for it to a greater extent in accordance with its functional purpose.

The name of a precious alloy is determined by the name of the main precious (noble) metal (for example, an alloy of gold, silver, platinum and palladium). The main characteristic of an alloy is its fineness (or composition).

In the Russian Federation, the metric standard is adopted - the amount of precious metal contained in 1,000 parts (fractions) of the alloy.

By the Decree of the Government of the Russian Federation of June 18, 1999 No. 643, the following samples were established for jewelry and other household items made of precious metals:

By the same decree, it is allowed to manufacture items from gold of 583rd test on orders of citizens from jewelry and other household items of gold of this test belonging to them.

On July 1, 2001, GOST 30649-99 “Jewelry based alloys of noble metals. Brands ”, which presents alloys based on gold, silver, platinum and palladium, recommended for the manufacture of jewelry and other household items. The characteristics of the alloys are given in accordance with the requirements of the international standard (ISO 9202), according to which the sample of the precious metal should not have deviations downward, that is, only a plus tolerance (remedium) is introduced.

For designation of alloys in the standard the following abbreviations are adopted: Зл-gold; Wed-silver; Pl-platinum; Pd-palladium; RD - rhodium; And - iridium; M - copper; H - nickel; C - zinc; Kd - cadmium; Ost. - the rest.

The name of alloy grades consists of letters denoting alloy components, followed by numbers. The numbers after the letters indicate the nominal content of the component in the alloy in thousandths (sample), if the component

Noble metal, and percentage if the component is a base metal. The last component in the name of the alloy grade is not indicated if it is ignoble.

Table shows the chemical compositions of alloys based on palladium, gold, silver and platinum according to GOST 30649-99.

Chemical composition of gold-based alloys

Chemical composition of silver-based alloys

Chemical composition of platinum-based alloys

Chemical composition of palladium-based alloys

Impurities in percentage in each grade of alloy should not exceed: iron - 0.05; lead - 0.004; platinum - 0.05; gold - 0.05; total - 0.16.

GOST 30649-99 also presents the properties of these alloys and recommendations for their use in the manufacture of jewelry. Table the colors of the alloys and their main purpose are indicated.

The consumer and technological properties of gold alloys are different. So alloys of the 375th test are classified as low-grade, tarnishing in air, due to their very low corrosion resistance, which significantly limits their use.

Corrosion is the destruction of metals caused by chemical and electrochemical processes that develop on the surface when interacting with the external environment.

Color and main purpose of the alloy

If the gold content in the alloy is more than 50%, which corresponds to approximately 585 fineness and above, then corrosion processes occur mainly in micro areas occupied by gold atoms, while areas of silver and copper are passive. In this case, the currents of electrochemical corrosion are very small and the corrosion rate is minimal. The original color of the product remains long enough. With a decrease in the atomic percentage of gold in the alloy to 25%, which corresponds to a weight content of gold of about 45%, the corrosion pattern changes significantly. The corrosion rate increases many times, and the process takes place mainly in microsections of copper and silver. The formation of colored corrosion products in this case is the very darkening or tarnishing of jewelry. This is especially noticeable in low-grade gold alloys.

Another common cause of increased corrosion in jewelry can be solders, especially low or no gold, but high zinc. It is easy to work with such solders, but the corrosion resistance of the products becomes low.

Gold alloys of 958 are classified as high-grade alloys. Such alloys have the highest corrosion resistance, have a pleasant bright yellow color, almost corresponding to the color of pure gold. However, alloys of the 958th test have a noticeable drawback associated with their great softness: the polishing of the surfaces of products does not last long and quickly tarnishes. Even ordinary dust containing microscopic quartz particles scratches the surface of the product. Therefore, such an alloy is used relatively rarely for the manufacture of wearable jewelry.

The most used alloys for jewelry are 750 and 585 alloys.

Gold alloys of 750 carat are divided into non-ferrous and white. Non-ferrous alloys are a triple system of gold-silver-copper, so their color can vary in a wide range depending on the content of alloying elements from green (high silver content) to red (high copper content). These alloys have good hardness and ductility, are well forged, and are technologically advanced for applying enamel. The best combination of decorative and technological properties is possessed by alloys of the ZlSrM 750-125 grade (bright yellow color with a pink tint) and the ZlSrM 750-150 grade (greenish-yellow color).

When platinum, nickel and zinc are added to gold as alloying elements, the alloy can become white (discolored). In the domestic jewelry industry, the most widely used alloy of white gold 750-carat grade ZlNTsM 750-7.5-2.5. The addition of nickel to the alloy (except for the bleaching effect) increases the hardness of the gold alloy, and zinc improves the technological properties (increases the fluidity).

Gold alloys 585th (and related to it 583rd) have a beautiful appearance, high mechanical and anti-corrosion properties, good manufacturability. Of the gold alloys, they have the highest wear resistance. Alloys of this test are also divided by color into non-ferrous and white.

In the practice of jewelers, the term "white gold" is used, which emphasizes not the color of an alloy of gold of a particular sample, but precisely a certain brand of alloy. This term refers to an alloy of gold with palladium and silver. In order for the alloy to acquire a white color, the palladium content in it must be more than 15-16%. An example of such an alloy is the ZlSrPd 585-255-160 alloy. It has high ductility, good gloss, high corrosion resistance. The Russian standard stipulates the branding of the alloy "white gold", based on the gold content in it. In this example, the sample will be 585th. But in fact, taking into account the noble metals (i.e. gold and palladium), the fineness is 750th. That is why the Russian white gold of 585-proof is so prized.

Unconditional popularity in Russia is enjoyed by gold items of the 585th test - about 90% of all gold items. The share of alloys of the 750th, 500th and 375th samples, respectively, accounts for 5%, 2.5% and 2% of products. The number of products made of alloys 999 and 958 is less than 1%.

Silver alloys are not as diverse as gold alloys. All of them are close to each other in color (silvery-white) and physical and mechanical properties. In silver alloys used for jewelry making, copper is used as an alloying component.

Alloy of silver 960-th test is used for the manufacture of filigree products, as well as for products subjected to deep drawing, embossing, enameling and blackening. It matches the color of pure silver in color. It is very technologically advanced, it lends itself well to pressure processing. The disadvantages include low mechanical properties; during operation, the products are easily deformed and lose their original shape.

An alloy of 925 sterling silver is the most common in the jewelry industry, otherwise it is called "standard" or "sterling" silver. The color of the alloy practically does not differ from the color of the 960th test, but the mechanical properties are much better. It has good processing properties and is suitable for enameling and blackening.

Alloy 800 belongs to low-grade silver alloys, it has a yellowish color (due to the high copper content) and low chemical resistance. It is rarely used in the jewelry industry of the Russian Federation, but it is more popular abroad.

Platinum alloys have traditionally been used in diamond jewelry. At one time they were supplanted by more technologically advanced alloys of white P gold. At present, in the world, including in Russia, interest in jewelry made from platinum alloys is growing again, and platinum again takes its place among precious metals. There are many platinum alloys, but only six of them are recommended for jewelry making (table).

Palladium belongs to a number of new materials for the jewelry industry. For the production of jewelry, 850 and 500 palladium samples are allowed. The demand for jewelry made from palladium is growing steadily. These are all kinds of weaving chains, earrings, rings with inserts, wedding rings, tie clips, accessories and much more. In Russia, the leading manufacturers of products from palladium alloys are Krastsvetmet OJSC (Krasnoyarsk), Yekaterinburg Non-Ferrous Metals Processing Plant LLC and Yuvelirny House LLC (Yekaterinburg). Traditionally, jewelry with diamond inserts was made from platinum or white gold alloys. Since it is the white frame that best sets off these precious stones, enhances their natural shine and play of light. Now these alloys are increasingly being replaced by palladium alloys. Palladium is also interesting because, in combination with indium and some other rare earth metals, it forms alloys of fancy colors. Jewelry made of such precious alloys can be not only customarily yellow or white, their color can vary in a wide range: pink-yellow, lilac, violet. The original decorative and aesthetic properties of the palladium-indium alloy, as well as their durability, will make it possible to successfully use them in jewelry and significantly expand the range of jewelry stores.

For the manufacture of jewelry and metal haberdashery, other widely known, but non-precious alloys (cupronickel, nickel silver, bronze and brass) are used.

Cupronickel (MN-19) is an alloy of copper and nickel, with a nickel content of 18-20%. The alloy is distinguished by its ductility and strength, it is easily minted, stamped, soldered, polished; has a beautiful silvery color. Used to make tableware and many types of jewelry with inexpensive inserts.

Nickel silver (MNTs-15-20) is an alloy of copper, nickel (13.5-16.5%) and zinc (18-22%). The alloy has good ductility, ductility and corrosion resistance. Found wide application in the manufacture of jewelry with filigree elements.

It should be noted that copper-nickel alloys are used only for the manufacture of jewelry for decorating clothes, since they oxidize when in contact with the skin and can leave dark marks.

Bronze is an alloy based on copper with the addition of the main component - tin, as well as zinc, nickel, lead, phosphorus and manganese. Such alloys are called tin bronzes (for example, brands BrOTs 4-3, BrOTsS 5-5-5 and others). There are other types of bronze without the use of tin: aluminum, silicon, cadmium and beryllium. Beryllium bronzes are currently most widely used because they have high hardness, elasticity, and corrosion resistance. Artistic casting, commemorative medals and souvenir signs are made of such bronze. BrA5 aluminum bronze is used for minting coins.

Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc (no more than 42%). Zinc influences the color of brass. So, brass with a zinc content of 18-20% have a yellow-red color, 20-30% - brown-yellow, 30-42% - light yellow. Sometimes small amounts of lead, tin, iron, nickel, etc. are added to the alloy as alloying metals. Brass is very ductile, easily processed by pressure and cutting. It is mainly used for making cheap jewelry.

Not every piece of jewelry can be called a piece of jewelry. It's not about jewelry or fake stones. The result of jewelry work is a combination of several aspects: the presence of precious metal and artistic processing in the product, the correct purpose of the jewelry and the stamp on its inner side. Let's understand in order why this or that product can be called jewelry.

A precious metal

The word “jeweler” comes from the German juwel, which means “jewel”. Therefore, first of all, jewelry is jewelry made of precious metals: gold, silver, platinum or palladium.

Metals are considered precious for several reasons. They are resistant to chemical attack, rarely found in nature, and their extraction is prohibitively expensive.

Jewelry is not made of precious metals in pure form. This is due to the softness of natural material, its susceptibility to wear and tear and high price. Usually jewelry companies use alloys, the composition of which is kept in the strictest confidence. Alloys differ in color, hardness, melting point, as well as the percentage of the most precious metal. The percentage determines the fineness of the metal, which we will talk about in the next two articles.

Artistic processing

Jewelry made of precious metal can be considered jewelry if it has artistic value. It is thanks to special processing techniques that a piece of jewelry becomes so attractive that you want to get it. Artistic processing includes the following processes: casting, forging, embossing, filigree, enamel, blackening, diamond cutting, rhodium plating and other techniques.

Purpose of the product

You might be surprised, but jewelry is not just what people wear on their fingers, neck, arms and legs. This concept is much broader. Just take a look:

• Personal Jewelry- products that you put on your body. Most often, they are spoken about when they mean jewelry.
• Toilet items- decorations that complement the costumes and are of practical use. For example, tie clips or cufflinks.
• Accessories- products for toilet items. It can be a watch bracelet or a cigarette case.
• Headsets- groups of jewelry with the same artistic solution. For example, a collection of jewelry consisting of a ring and earrings. You can get acquainted with the AQUAMARINE collections in a special section of our website.
• Table setting items- products with practical application. For example, spoons, forks and cup holders.

Watches and icons made of gold and silver are also considered jewelry. They can be inlaid with precious or semi-precious stones, which we will talk about in the fourth article of the series of materials.

Branding

Pick up any piece of jewelry and pay attention to the inside. Real Russian jewelry should have two impressions.

The first brand is called the name of the plant itself, which created the decoration. The year of creation of the product is encrypted there, as well as the codes of the State Assay Office and the manufacturer. The plant puts this stigma itself.

The second mark on each product is put by the State Assay Office. The imprint contains the encrypted region in which the decoration was made, and also indicates the sample of the metal.

If you are holding a piece of jewelry without a second mark, it means that it is a foreign product or a fake. If there is not a single print on the jewelry or the data on it is indistinct, you should doubt the authenticity of the product and demand the necessary documents for the goods.

Summarize

1. Made of precious metal
2. Have artistic value
3. Meet one of the aforementioned purposes

Remember. Anything that does not fall into this category is considered costume jewelry. She, too, has the right to life due to her beauty, but such jewelry cannot be called jewelry.

Wear real jewelry. Dive into jewelry every day. AQUAMARINE will help you with the first and the second.

Wait for the next article!

PKF Tsvet sells products made of precious metals made from high-purity alloys of such chemical elements as silver, gold, iridium, osmium, palladium, platinum, rhenium, rhodium, ruthenium. We sell them in the form of powder, strip, wire, solder, anodes, granules.

Specifications

The category of precious metals includes chemical elements that exhibit metallic properties and practically do not enter into oxidative reactions. Therefore, their appearance (color and gloss) and properties of the surface layer remain unchanged for a long time, even in high humidity conditions. The overwhelming majority of precious metals have good ductility, and some are refractory.

For products containing precious metals, the standards strictly define the chemical composition (content of the main component and impurities) and mass-dimensional parameters of the release forms (range of mass per unit of production, fraction, diameter, thickness, length, etc.).

Manufacturing methods

Precious metals used in products are extracted from ore materials that contain them, mined by open-pit or underground methods. Extraction of precious metals from ore is carried out by the following methods:

• electrolytic;
• metallurgical;
• chemical;
• hydrometallurgical;
• refined.

These methods are often combined to improve recovery efficiency. As a result, finished products are obtained containing precious metals - powders or granules. Subsequently, they can be melted and cast into molds with a certain geometric configuration (ingots), which can then be machined to form the required profile - sheet, wire, etc. other technologies, the choice of which is carried out depending on the required mechanical and physical properties of the final product.

Application

In electrical engineering, products made of precious metals are used for the manufacture of highly reliable electrical contacts, conductors in low-current circuits, magnetic elements with high coercive force, high-precision and highly stable resistances, semiconductor devices and microcircuits, etc. In medicine, surgical and research instruments are made from alloys of noble metals. , prostheses, drugs (mainly based on silver), etc. Silver-containing solders have a much higher strength in comparison with analogs based on tin, copper, lead and zinc, therefore they solder radiators, carburetors, filters and other technical units that work in difficult conditions (at elevated temperatures, pressures, etc.).

PKF Tsvet sells products made of precious metals that can be used in jewelry (jewelry and decorative items) and in the chemical industry (in the production of catalysts, tanks for reactions involving acids and alkalis). They can also be used to:

• formation of protective coatings for materials intended for use in an aggressive environment;
• creation of parts for engines, furnaces, nuclear reactors and other units, the operation of which is accompanied by high temperatures;
• production of thermocouples.