How to make a ring for a well yourself. How to make forms for well rings with your own hands

Those who build a house within the city or not far from the central water supply have no problems - they have connected to the water supply and everything is in order. But if your home is far from civilization, or you just want to have clean water for drinking and cooking, then you cannot do without a well. Before you start digging a well, you should collect information about the waters underground in the area where the water source will be dug.

The easiest way is to ask the neighbors at what depth their water is, and what quality it is. If they have groundwater, dig boldly - there will be water for you too! With minimal construction skills, you can build a well from concrete rings with your own hands.

Characteristic features of the device of wells

Before erecting it, it is important to know its structure. There are two elements in a well: an underground element and an element located above the ground. Before starting work, the location of the well is determined. They begin to dig the earth to a depth that allows them to establish water filtration, which is required to purify water from clay, dust and other contaminants. A hydraulic structure must be protected against the penetration of sewage, precipitation and sewage.

The construction of a well structure consists of 3 parts:

• Installation of the head of a hydraulic structure, which is the upper part in the wells, located above the ground. The above-ground structural element serves as a protection against the ingress of sewage and sediments that can pollute drinking water. Consists of a roofing part, a canopy and a lifting mechanism. Decorate the head with wood, stone, plaster or other facing materials. It is important to provide an element for drainage of rainwater, which is installed outside the head.
• Arrangement of shafts of hydraulic structures. This is a place located underground in the gap between the head and the bottom. Water is lifted along the trunk using a bucket and rope or other lifting device. The shaft of the mine has a casing, the function of which is to protect the concrete well from destruction and penetration of groundwater into the middle of the structure.
• Construction of a water intake part, which is designed for storing water, filtering it and settling it.

Well device diagram.

The water intake part includes a casing, a filter and is of 3 types:

• Incomplete - this concrete structure has no difficulties in execution, in it the casing does not reach the layer of impermeable rocks and the water comes from below. The imperfect design has a small volume of water and is suitable for small families.
• The complete water intake part is complex and has a casing that abuts against a watertight formation. The volume of a part of water accumulation is average, and the liquid is supplied through the walls of the well.
• Perfect water intake with sump. The depth reaches one and a half meters of water reserves. It is used in case of a large amount of water consumption.

Choice of materials

The construction of potable concrete wells requires the choice of high quality materials, namely the concrete composition of heavy grades. To build a concrete structure, you will need environmentally friendly, dense, highly durable materials that will not let any contamination through. Wells are made of log, stone, brick or concrete. You can do it yourself, however, it is important to observe the correct proportions when making the solution and adhere to the technological process when working with rings. Stopping their choice on wall rings made according to the state standard, they pay attention to the marking of products, the letters of which denote the abbreviation of the word, and the numbers - the diameter and height of the ring.

Technology and stages of construction

When working with concrete wells, in order to correctly make the structure, installation begins with determining a convenient place for a future well and digging a round hole. The well is dug to a depth of one and a half meters and with the same diameter. The bottom of the well is equalized, and the earth is removed. A stand on three legs with a suspended lifting device is placed above the pit. The concrete ring is delivered to the edge of the well and attached to the hook, after which it is lifted up and lowered to the bottom of the well pit.

Set correctly at the level of the ring and pour concrete solution, after which the second ring is lowered. Next, you need to dig the soil under the lower ring and put it into a container, and then work out the soil with a crowbar, pickaxe or pick. After the level of the rings is below the ground, set the following.

Excess water is pumped out with a pump and the well continues to be dug until its depth reaches one and a half meters. Next, waterproof clay is poured, carefully tamped and proceeded to seal the joints with a concrete mixture with the addition of a sealing substance.

Fix the rings with staples and paint them with anti-corrosion paint. As soon as the seams harden, they begin to dig out the clay, lay a porous wooden shield on the bottom, which is subsequently sprinkled with sand and gravel. At the end of the work with the well, they install a canopy and a head with their own hands, mount a mechanism that raises the water.

To purify drinking water, a bottom filter is installed in the well. The installation of which consists in the constant digging of the well and not stopping work even when liquid appears. Dig to a depth of twenty centimeters, level and clean the bottom. After that, a thirty-centimeter layer of cleaned sand and a layer of fine crushed stone are poured. After filling the filter, the water is pumped out several times. At first, they use wells only for irrigating flowers and a vegetable garden, it is allowed to drink and cook with well liquid only after quality control.

Construction with alternating rings

Construction of a well using the method of alternate installation of rings.

With their own hands, a well shaft is dug with a shovel with a short handle, which simplifies work in a small space. Dig until the depth of the well reaches one and a half meters, after which the bottom is leveled and the first ring is fixed. It is important to install the first ring exactly in the middle. Further, they continue to remove the soil from the inside of the concrete structure. In the process of digging the ground, the ring falls down under its own weight, as soon as it is level with the ground level, the brackets are attached to the subsequent ring.

It happens that in the process of digging a well, the rings stand still and do not fall, then this indicates their incorrect location from the vertical axis. To align the position of the rings, they are covered with a heavy slab or stones, under the weight of which the rings begin to sag.

Deepening along the well continues downward until the liquid begins to protrude through the bottom of the well, while the incoming water is pumped out with a pump. They dig a hole until they reach a soil saturated with water. It is easy to notice, the liquid will go at great speed. But the pumping is not stopped, as it is still necessary to lay the bottom filter and align it.

The field of application of reinforced concrete rings is quite extensive. If there is a need to save money, you can do them yourself. But this requires molds for concrete rings. Buying such equipment is an expensive pleasure; for private use it will not justify itself. But the forms can also be made by yourself.

What are concrete rings for?

Most often, concrete rings are needed for the device, but they are also used when installing an autonomous sewage system - they make filtration wells either. Another area of ​​application is manholes in the construction and drainage system. Even made of concrete rings. Moreover, there are different options - vertical, horizontal. In general, the scope is wide.

There are rings of different sizes for different needs, they also have different wall thicknesses, they can be with or without reinforcement. Despite such an abundance of choice, many are thinking about making reinforced concrete rings with their own hands. The thing is that when arranging a site, you may need more than one ring, and not even ten. For some, it takes more than a dozen only for the well. The production cost of reinforced concrete products is much lower than their retail price. Even taking into account the fact that you have to make molds for concrete rings. And if you also take into account the cost of delivery, then the savings are very solid.

Varieties and sizes of concrete rings for wells

Industrial-made concrete and reinforced concrete rings must meet the standards prescribed in GOST 8020-90. Their sizes can be taken from the table, as well as the approximate weight and price (indicated taking into account delivery in Moscow).

Name	Height	Wall thickness	Inner diameter	Weight	Price without lock / with lock
KS-6	7 cm	12 cm	58 cm	60 Kg	390 rbl
KS-7-1	10 cm	8 cm	70 cm	46 Kg	339 rbl
KS-7-1.5	15 cm	8 cm	70 cm	68 kg	349 rbl
KS-7-3	35 cm	8 cm	70 cm	140 kg	589 rbl
KS-7-5	50 cm	8 cm	70 cm	230 kg	800 rbl
KS-7-6	60 cm	10 cm	70 cm	250 Kg	830 rbl
KS-7-9	90 cm	8 cm	70 cm	410 kg	1230 rbl
KS-7-10	100 cm	8 cm	70 cm	457 kg	1280 rbl
KS-10-5	50 cm	8 cm	100 cm	320 kg	1110 rbl
KS-10-6	60 cm	8 cm	100 cm	340 kg	1130 rbl
KS-10-9	90 cm	8 cm	100 cm	640 kg	1530 rub / 1700 rub
KS-12-10	100 cm	8 cm	120 cm	1050 kg	2120 rbl
KS-15-6	60 cm	9 cm	150 cm	900 kg	2060 rbl
KS-15-9	90 cm	9 cm	150 cm	1350 kg	2670 rbl
KS-20-6	60 cm	10 cm	200 cm	1550 kg	3350 rbl
KS-20-9	90 cm	10 cm	200 cm	2300 kg	4010 rbl
KS-25-9	90 cm	12 cm	250 cm	2200 kg	16100 rbl

For the manufacture of products of each type, there must be two parts of the formwork - external and internal. The distance between them is prescribed in GOST, depending on the size of the ring. For reinforced rings for a well with a diameter of 70 cm or 100 cm, this is 7 cm and 8 cm, respectively; in the manufacture of rings without reinforcement, the wall thickness is much larger - 12 cm and 14 cm.

For the manufacture of reinforced concrete rings, special shapes are required

In addition to different sizes, there is also a different profile of the end part of the rings - even and with a lock. The lock is a tongue-and-groove protrusion. Such rings are called tongue-and-groove or locking. When placed on top of each other, they adhere well, it is difficult to move them under lateral loads, which is very important when constructing wells for any purpose. The disadvantage of this option is more complex shapes for concrete rings - it is necessary to form corresponding steps at the ends.

Manufacturing technology of concrete and reinforced concrete well rings

For the manufacture of concrete rings in production, a hard solution with a small amount of water is used, after pouring it is necessarily subjected to vibration. Without this process, it is impossible to achieve uniformity and high strength. In production, vibrators are built into the walls of molds; in private production, you can use submersible vibrators for concrete. These are relatively small devices, the body of which is held in the hands, and the vibrator head is lowered into concrete. The length of this nozzle should be long enough to reach almost to the bottom of the ring.

What concrete to use

Concrete for well rings is used for soot strength at least B15 (class M200). Composition of hard concrete used in production:

• cement PC500D0 - 230 kg:
• sand of medium grain size (fineness module 1.5-2.3) - 900 kg;
• crushed stone of fraction 5-10 mm - 1100 kg;
• plasticizer S-3 - 1.6 kg;
• water - 120 liters.

The output is a cubic meter of concrete. The amount of water is indicated for sand with a moisture content of 4%. If the sand is wet, the amount of water is significantly reduced.

What must be said that in the usual type "pear" such dry concrete you will not mix. For mixing, a forced-type mixer must be used. If not, make more fluid concrete. The disadvantage of this solution is that it is necessary to keep the concrete in the formwork for some time (from 4 to 7 days, depending on the temperature). If there is one mold for concrete rings, the production of a dozen concrete rings can take months. The way out is to make the mortar as hard as possible and have more than one pair of formwork.

Reinforcement of concrete rings

It is possible, according to all the rules, to tie a reinforcing ring from a ribbed bar with a thickness of 8-10 mm - circles connected by vertical segments of reinforcement. The number of reinforcement rings depends on the height of the ring. The optimal distance between them is 20-30 cm. With a well ring height of 90-100 cm, three or four reinforcement belts are made. Vertical segments are set in increments of 30-40 cm. They are tied with a special knitting wire.

Loops can be tied to the upper reinforcement belt, for which it will be possible to turn the concrete ring using lifting equipment.

When installing a reinforcing belt, remember one detail: the reinforcement must be located in the thickness of the concrete. There should be at least 3-4 cm from the metal to the edge of the product. Therefore, the figure above shows that the reinforcement belts are not on the surface, but much lower. This is approximately how the fittings should be positioned.

The armature can be welded, but it is better to tie it - a more durable structure is obtained

Self-made concrete rings are often reinforced with a finished steel mesh - the thickness of the bar is at least 4 mm, a step of 20 cm. It is cut off to a boring height and length, bent into a ring, the edges are tied with wire. Such reinforcement is somewhat worse than the standard one, but it is quite sufficient to impart greater strength.

What vibration gives

The vibration process increases the strength of concrete by several classes (without changing the recipe). When processing concrete, air bubbles come out before our eyes, and the aggregate and cement are distributed more evenly. It will not be possible to do without this procedure - the walls will be loose, they will leak and quickly collapse.

However, you cannot overdo it - stratification may occur. The treatment is stopped when the shrinkage of the solution stops, the surface becomes smooth and cement milk appears on top.

Manufacturing process

The outer (outer) part of the formwork is installed on a flat platform or sheet of iron. If a tongue-and-groove ring is made, the groove former is laid down. A reinforcing mesh is placed at a distance of 3-4 cm from the edge of the formwork. The inner part of the formwork is placed, fixed with screws to the protruding parts of the outer formwork (fingers).

Concrete is thrown into the established form with shovels or some kind of device. After the ring is filled, vibrating is carried out (in finished forms it takes 1-2 minutes). If necessary (look at the shrinkage), add concrete. After the end of vibration, the surface of the ring is smoothed with a trowel. If necessary, the ridge ring is installed and depressed.

In an industrial environment, formwork is immediately carried out - for this, rigid concrete is used so that you can immediately use the kit to make the next ring. To do this, remove the fingers, take out the formwork. The void former that forms the bottom groove remains until the concrete has set.

How and from what to make molds for concrete rings

Factory forms are made of sheet metal, reinforced with stiffeners. Metal thickness - 3-8 mm, depending on the dimensions of the ring.

From barrels with thick walls

At home, bending sheet metal with the required radius of curvature is not easy at all. It is much easier to find two thick-walled barrels with different diameters. The diameters should differ by 14-16 mm. In this case, the wall thickness will be 7-8 mm. For a well ring with reinforcement - what is required.

The bottom of the barrels is cut off, the inner part is made about 10 cm higher - this is more convenient. To be able to remove the formwork from the finished ring, the barrels are sawn lengthwise into two parts. The halves must be securely connected. This can be done in different ways:

• having welded corners with drilled holes, tighten with bolts;
• make "ears" in which to drive wedges.

To prevent the inner part from leading, several spacers must be welded to each half, which will keep the walls from bending.

Having inserted one part of the formwork into another, set them at the same distance one relative to the other (measuring the gap in a circle). Holes are drilled in several places - for the studs, with which they will be fixed. Studs are sections of a bar on both sides of which a thread is cut. The holes are positioned one opposite the other so that the parts of the formwork can be securely fixed.

Studs are inserted into the drilled holes, tightened with nuts. If the thickness of the walls of the mold for concrete rings is not very large, you will most likely have to put large washers or plates cut out of metal with a hole under the nuts so that the mold does not bend when pouring concrete.

Sheet metal

If desired, molds can be made for concrete rings and from a strip of sheet metal and wooden blocks, which will stiffen the formwork. Cut the strip to the desired length - along the circumference + 10 cm for the connection. The width of the strip is equal to the height of the ring + 10 cm. Bend the sides 5 cm at the bottom and top, and make the same side along the edge of the strip. Drill holes for the tightening bolts in the side board. Cut the upper side every 20-25 cm (less if the diameter of the ring is small). Now the strip can be bent - get a ring. But it is very unstable - it “plays”. Rigidity can be given with a wooden frame.

Concrete ring molds can be made from sheet steel

Cut pieces of 20-25 cm long from the bar. Fasten them under the side, drill a hole in the metal, screw pieces of bars onto the self-tapping screws. With a bar length of 20-25 cm, the shape will turn out to be not round, but multifaceted. If this is critical for you, you can make cuts more often, in short, cut the bars. The height must also be strengthened. Bars are also used for this. They need to be fastened more often - so that the walls do not bend.

If you know how to use welding, you can go the other way. In addition to sheet metal, you will need a profiled square tube. Podojet 15 * 15 mm or 20 * 20 mm. First, you need to bend four identical half arcs from a profile pipe. Four large ones are for external formwork and four smaller ones are for internal formwork. Weld cut metal strips to the arcs.

From wooden planks or bars

If it is easier for you to work with wood, you can assemble molds for reinforced concrete rings from wood. They are assembled from narrow slats, fixed at the bottom and top with a ring. The ring can be made of metal, for example, a bent profiled pipe. It can be bent on the pipe bender with the required radius of curvature.

If cooper art is your strong point, you can also make arcs from wood. The material is not that important. The strength and rigidity of the resulting shape is important. Please note that the skirting is attached to the outside of the larger formwork and from the inside of the smaller formwork.

Important! To easily remove the formwork, it is necessary to lubricate it before pouring the mold. If you plan to use concrete rings for a drinking water well, you can use sunflower oil. If some kind of technical structure is supposed, it is possible to use mining mixed with engine oil or diesel fuel (or pure engine oil) as a lubricant.

For permanent or temporary residence in a suburban area, a water source is required, preferably, functioning all year round. One of the simplest and most inexpensive sources of water supply in construction is a well, which can be easily dug out with your own hands, almost without resorting to the services of special equipment.

First, consider the basic requirements for the location of the well.

1. It should be as close to the house as possible, but not close to the walls.
2. Also important is the maximum distance from all possible sources of pollution - cesspools, landfills, etc.
3. In the selected place, there should be no upstream waters (they are found in swampy areas) that can pollute the water in the well.

Despite the mentioned low cost of building a well, certain costs and efforts are still required. Therefore, it is so important to choose the right place so that this one provides constant water supply in the required volumes.

There are many methods of finding a place for a well - using aluminum frames, willow vines, glass jars, by observing natural phenomena or animal behavior. But one of the most effective and at the same time available ways is to study the features of the landscape. We will definitely not find water (or find it, but in an insignificant amount) in those areas that:

• have significant elevations of the relief;
• located near wells or other water intake points;
• are located at the steep shore of the reservoir;
• densely planted with acacia or pine.

Note! There are also places where the well will produce poor quality water. Such places include low coastlines and dry bogs - the water here often contains large amounts of manganese and iron.

Various depressions and depressions are our search areas. Plants such as willow, lingonberry, birch, and so on are a kind of indicators of the presence of underground aquifers. A specific place for digging should be selected where the crowns of these plants lean. Finally, if the fruits of a recently planted apple tree rot, and it itself is sick, it means that groundwater lies nearby, since this garden tree is susceptible to soil saturated with moisture.

From the diagram below, you can get acquainted with the types of plants, as well as with the depth of the corresponding groundwater.

Note! Fog can be another effective indicator. In hot summer in the evening or in the morning, where the water is very close to the surface, fog spreads. The density of the latter is directly related to the proximity of the aquifer. It is characteristic that observing the fog makes it possible to calculate the site for the construction of a well with an accuracy of up to 75%.

Where does the water come from?

At the bottom of the constructed well, water begins to accumulate (it comes from an aquifer, which is also called the horizon) with an area ranging from several tens of meters to several square kilometers. The horizon, which is "thick" enough to fill the well, usually lies at a depth of 4 to 20 m. If the aquifer is still not found at the 20 m mark, then further digging of the well is unprofitable - it is easier to equip.

Stage two. We prepare everything you need

The procedure for the construction of wells is not standardized by any state regulations and standards. The classical device was formed for more than one century, until it took on a modern look.

To make a well with your own hands, you need to prepare:

• a tripod made of metal corners or wooden poles;
• winch;
• rope ladder;
• shovel;
• scrap;
• material for strengthening the mine.

As for the last point, the most promising material is concrete rings. They are strong (reinforced with steel rods ø1 cm and more), durable (service life is 50 years), frost-resistant and waterproof.

product name	Height x wall thickness, cm	Internal diameter, cm	Weight, kg
KS-7-1	10x8	70	46
KS-7-1.5	15x8	70	68
KS-7-3	35x8	70	140
KS-7-5	50x8	70	230
KS-7-9	90x8	70	410
KS-7-10	100x8	70	457
KS-10-5	50x8	100	320
KS-10-6	60x8	100	340
KS-10-9	90x8	100	640
KS-12-10	100x8	120	1050
KS-15-6	60x9	150	900
KS-15-9	90x9	150	1350
KS-20-6	60x10	200	1550
KS-20-9	90x10	200	2300
KO-6	7x12	58	60
KS-7-6	60x10	70	250

Concrete rings can be:

• wall (abbreviation - KS), which are used for arranging the neck and are suitable for all types of wells;
• additional - they are used in cases where the standard options are not suitable, since these have non-standard sizes;
• Reinforced concrete rings - used for drainage and sewer wells, communication systems, gas and water pipelines.

There are other types - with an overlapping slab, with a bottom, prefabricated, etc. To avoid displacement of the rings after installation, they are equipped with special grooves that prevent the moment of displacement.

Note! For a well in a suburban area, it is best to use wall products KS-10 or KS-15 (the numbers are the inner diameter in decimeters).

After choosing a place and preparing everything you need, we can start construction.

Stage three. Well construction

Let's make a reservation right away that it won't work alone - you need at least one more person.

We perform all actions in the following sequence.

Step 1. We put the first concrete ring in the place of the future mine. The "slaughterer" undermines the walls of the ring, as it deepens, it sinks deeper and deeper. It is advisable to use a product with pins or tapered points for the first ring to facilitate downward movement.

Step 2. After the top edge of the ring reaches the same level with the ground, put another one on top and continue working. Each ring weighs approximately 600-700 kg.

Step 3. Two people are enough to roll the ring to the place of work. But if it is possible to use a crane, then it is better not to neglect it, because with the help of such special equipment, you can more accurately lower the ring onto the seat.

If the soil is dry and solid, then you can go deeper by 2-3 meters, and after that, using a crane, install several rings in a row.

Step 4. In the same way, we continue the procedure until the aquifer is reached. As practice shows, in a standard work shift (8 hours), 3 concrete rings can be laid.

Note! The proximity of the aquifer can be seen from the small springs gushing from the walls and the rapidly decreasing temperature.

After the appearance of fontanelles, we go deeper a few more meters, after which we cover the bottom with a "pillow" made of rubble (it will serve as a water filter).

Step 5. The mine is pumped with a drain. The more water is pumped out of the well, the greater its debit will be.

Stage four. Protecting the structure from surface water

To keep the well clean, it must be properly protected. Water must enter the shaft only from below, and therefore the walls must be reliably insulated. To do this, we firmly connect the rings to each other, resorting to one of two possible methods.

1. We drill the walls of the rings and fix them with metal brackets mounted on bolts.
2. We twist the rings with steel wire, clinging to the loading eyes. To twist the wire, we use a metal rod, for example, a scrap.

Pay attention to the waterproofing of the joints between the rings! If water seeps through the seams, it will contaminate the well. To close the seams, you should use a substance that will not affect the quality of the water.

We strengthen the seams according to the following scheme.

Step 1 . We put pieces of linen rope in the voids between the rings (an excellent material - natural and environmentally friendly).

Step 2. We cover the ropes with a solution of sand, cement and liquid glass. By doing this, we will achieve reliable waterproofing, which, moreover, will be completely neutral in contact with water.

Step 3. On top of the upper rings, we dig a one-meter-deep pit.

Step 4. We waterproof the outer surface of the rings using liquid.

Step 5. We put a thermal insulation layer around the upper rings (we can use any foamed polymer, for example, polystyrene).

Step 6. We fill the pit around the well with clay. This is called a "clay castle".

Video - Clay castle

Stage five. We equip the well

But the construction of the well is not limited to the drilling of the mine and its strengthening. To do this, we equip the upper part of the structure - the head.

We equip a blind area around the well - a small platform made of concrete or carefully compacted rubble. The blind area should go at least 1 m from the mine on each side and, what is important, it is built after a certain time after the end of construction, when the soil has settled.

We also build a canopy over the structure to prevent precipitation from entering the mine. If a pump is used to supply water, it is better to close the shaft completely, leaving a small hole for the hose and cable.

As a conclusion. Protecting the well from frost

If the aquifer is too close to the surface, then the water can freeze in winter. In such cases, "" is built over the structure, and any available material (for example, foam or mineral wool) can be used for insulation. Moreover, the water supply pipe must be introduced into the mine below the level of soil freezing.

In the diagram below, two wells are used for the system at once - one directly for water supply, the other for supplying water to an intermediate tank.

Video - Building a well

A country economy cannot do without hydraulic structures: septic tanks, sewers and wells. The easiest way to build such objects is using reinforced concrete rings. We will tell you how to make concrete rings yourself, how to make a mold for them and mix the concrete mortar correctly.

There is nothing more dear than the fruits of your own labor.

Formwork General information

In the photo we see one of the formwork design options.

Reinforced concrete rings are one of the best solutions for the construction of concrete wells and septic tanks. The technical characteristics of concrete rings allow you not to worry about their integrity in freezing soil conditions, which has become a determining criterion when choosing materials for our climatic conditions.

However, it is far from always possible to purchase and deliver reinforced concrete products to the construction site, because the delivery price often exceeds the cost of the product itself. Considering how much it costs to bury a concrete ring, the project can cost a lump sum. In some regions, there are no construction warehouses or shops at all, so you have to do everything yourself.

Reinforced concrete rings are the best solution for a septic tank.

To do this, you need to solve three problems:

Make a form- formwork for the product;

Mix high-quality concrete mortar;

Place the mixture in the mold, and upon completion of hardening, release the product from the formwork without damaging the latter.

It is important to ensure that the formwork can be easily dismantled.

Important!
You can buy a ready-made formwork, but then the whole point of our venture is lost, because we are not going to open an auxiliary production, and for one construction such an acquisition is unprofitable.

Form making

Learn to make a shape for the rings.

A concrete ring is a section of a cylinder with a wall thickness of 80 to 160 mm. Thus, the product itself has an inner and outer diameters, and the outer one is 8-16 cm larger than the inner one. This means that we need to select two steel cylinders with the indicated difference in dimensions.

Advice!
Concrete rings with a bottom can be made by pre-filling a slab at the bottom of the pit, into which the product will be installed.

The standard ring is 90 cm high with an inner diameter of 1 m, with a wall thickness typically 160 mm. However, we can deviate from the sizes accepted in GOST and proceed from the available means at hand. The only thing that needs to be taken into account is the wall thickness of at least 10 cm and the height and weight of the product adequate for subsequent installation.

Standard dimensions of the product in accordance with GOST.

It is more difficult to make concrete rings with a lock, so we will make products with a smooth edge.

Important!
For our purposes, metal barrels, pieces of air ducts, pipes and other similar products are suitable.
It can also be small cisterns or tanks, the main thing is the cylindrical shape, the difference in diameters within 10-15 cm and strong metal walls.

Now to the point.

Step-by-step instructions will help you make the form yourself:

We take the prepared larger cylinder and put vertical lines opposite each other on its outer and inner walls, and the inner line should be a projection of the outer one. Along these lines from the outside we weld window or door hinges, two on each side.

We weld the loops along the line of the future cut.

From the inside, we cut the cylinder along the line with a grinder so as not to damage the hinges. On the one hand, we also cut off the retainers from the spindles in the hinges.

We cut the cylinder into two parts and remove the clips from the spindles.

We take the spindles out of the hinges and open the product, develop it several times. The form should be easy to open outward.

Opening and designing the cylinder.

We take a segment of the inner cylinder and draw the same lines, only this time they should divide the circle into two unequal parts, one of which is twice as large as the other. We weld the same loops along these lines, only from the inside.

We weld the loops from the inside along the lines.

We cut the cylinder in two from the outside with a grinder, trying not to damage the welded hinges. We cut off the spindle clamps on one side and open the smaller sash inward, develop its course.

A movable sash that opens inward is indicated in green.

Important!
The height of the inner cylinder should exceed the height of the outer one by 10 - 15 cm for the convenience of placing the concrete mixture.

Making a ring

How much it costs to dig in a concrete ring depends on the installation method.

To manufacture the ring, the formwork cylinders must be placed on a flat pallet. This can be a metal or wooden board or densely packed earth.

Then, in the space between the cylinders, it is necessary to install a reinforcing mesh, which can be purchased or made from steel wire yourself.

This is what a homemade wire mesh looks like.

For the convenience of transportation and installation of the product, steel ears made of thick wire or reinforcement with a diameter of 5 - 6 mm should be inserted into the lattice.

Between the cylinders, about half of their height, we insert wooden spacers, the thickness of which is equal to the thickness of the walls of the future product. This is necessary so that during laying the formwork parts do not move relative to each other.

After that, we knead the concrete solution. To do this, we take cement grade M400 or higher and mix it with sifted sand washed from clay in a ratio of 1: 2.5.

Then add water in the amount of 0.5 - 0.7 of the cement, so that the mixture is not too greasy, but not too skinny.

We add water carefully, in small portions.

Add 5 parts of crushed stone and mix the mixture thoroughly by hand or using a concrete mixer. We put the finished solution into a mold to a height of about 30 cm, after which we carefully ram it with a piece of reinforcement or a shovel holder. You can lean the hammer drill against the formwork in impact mode and gently vibrate the concrete.

Then, in the same way, we lay down layer by layer, when we reach half, the wooden wedges can be removed. Gradually fill in the form and carefully level the upper edge of the ring, trying to make it as even and smooth as possible.

Do not forget to insert "ears".

We leave the product for three days in the shade under a canopy. After their expiration, we take out the spindle of the inner formwork and open it inward. Then remove the outer part of the form in the same way. We leave the ring in place for 10 - 15 days, moisten it and protect it from direct sunlight and wind.

When making a concrete septic tank, it is important to decide how to seal the concrete rings. The easiest way is to apply waterproofing and sealant, but there is also a more reliable way.

The polyethylene insert solves the problem of the tightness of the septic tank.

Important!
Plastic inserts in concrete rings allow you to get rid of the danger of leaks for 30-50 years.

If necessary, you can make a reinforced concrete ring yourself at home. The video in this article will help you better understand the production technology of the product.

Concrete rings are used in a variety of economic needs, in particular, they are used to install water supply, drainage, sewage systems, sometimes rings are used even in the construction of cellars. Specialized firms are engaged in the manufacture of concrete rings, however, in some cases it is more profitable to make them yourself. There is nothing difficult in this, the only thing is that it will take some knowledge and time to make the forms.

Form making

In fact, forms (formwork) are two cylinders of different diameters, one of which is installed exactly in the middle of the other. The space formed between them is filled with concrete. Accordingly, the thickness of the walls of future rings () depends on the difference in diameters.

I must say that you can not engage in the manufacture of forms, but buy finished products. However, their price can be quite high. Therefore, it is more advisable to make the formwork yourself.

To do this, first of all, it is necessary to determine the size of the rings, i.e. such their parameters as:

• Diameter;
• Height;
• Wall thickness.

There are many options for the manufacture of formwork, in particular, you can find recommendations from experts on the use of wooden boards for these purposes, which are stuffed into circles of the required diameter.

However, the easiest is to use:

• Metal drums of appropriate sizes;
• Metal pipes;
• Air ducts;
• Plastic barrels will also work.

Now let's take a closer look at how a mold for concrete rings is made with our own hands from a metal pipe or barrel.

Outer ring

For the manufacture of external formwork, you must perform the following steps:

• First of all, you need to apply two longitudinal vertical lines to the cylinder, which will divide it into two identical parts.
• Further, on each side on the marking line, at least two window or door canopies should be installed. Their flaps should be located along the edges of the line, and the hinge connection should be strictly in line. The sashes can be attached using rivets or welding.
• Then, on one side, you need to cut off the lower caps of the spindles, which will allow you to easily disassemble the canopies.
• After that, you need to project the vertical lines to the outside of the cylinder.
• Next, using a grinder, you need to cut the cylinder with a thin disk along the outlined lines. This procedure should be carried out very carefully so as not to spoil the awnings.

This completes the production of the outer formwork wall. Now you need to pull out the canopy spindles and open the cylinder. If necessary, the awnings should be lubricated so that the mold can be easily opened.

Inner ring

Instructions for making the inner mold are similar to those described above:

• At the beginning, vertical lines are also drawn, only this time they do not divide the cylinder in half, but are located at a distance of 2/3 of the circumference from each other. In addition, they are located on the inside, not the outside.
• After that, the canopies are installed in the same way and the spindle heads are cut off, only they are located on the inner side of the structure.
• Then, trace the lines to the outside of the cylinder and cut it with a grinder.

Both forms are now ready.

Features of the manufacture of formwork

When manufacturing the formwork, the following points must be taken into account:

Note! When removing the product from the mold, the inner wall is first folded and then pulled out of the fresh ring. The outer cylinder is then disassembled.

Production of concrete rings

After the forms are ready, you can proceed directly to the manufacture of concrete rings.

This operation consists of several stages:

• Formwork and reinforcement preparation;
• Preparation of the solution;
• Form fillings;
• Removing the finished product.

Now let's take a closer look at each stage.

Formwork preparation

So, before you start pouring, you need to prepare the forms.

To do this, follow these steps:

• Place the rings on a level surface.... The inner cylinder, as mentioned above, should be located strictly in the middle of the outer one. If the procedure is performed in the summer, then the forms must be placed in a shady place so that the concrete does not dry out ahead of time, as this will reduce its strength.
• Next, reinforcement is performed with a special metal mesh, which is installed in the middle between the cylinders. If there is no reinforcing mesh, then you can use wire for these purposes, which is laid in a spiral during the pouring of concrete. I must say that it is allowed to make rings without reinforcement, but in this case, the wall thickness should be at least 15 cm.
• After that, it is necessary to install several spacer wedges between the cylinders, which will prevent their displacement during pouring.

Preparation of the solution

Cooking and durability of the product, as well as many of its other characteristics. For this procedure, you will need the following materials:

I must say that enterprises use special vibrating molds for concrete rings. But, since in our case the process will take place without any electric vibrators, you need to use a plasticizer that will improve the properties of concrete. This is especially necessary if the product will come into contact with water. Instructions for the use and dosage of the plasticizer are on the packaging.

The concrete preparation process is as follows:

• First of all, you need to mix the sand and cement.
• Then you need to add water to the dry mixture, while a plasticizer is also added to the composition.
• Next, gravel is added. Beforehand, it must be moistened with water.
• The resulting composition should be mixed well in a concrete mixer.

In the photo - pouring the formwork

Fill

You can start work only if the air temperature is at least +8 degrees Celsius.

The procedure is as follows:

• The concrete solution must be carefully laid around the entire circumference to a height of 15-25 centimeters.
• Next, you need to tamp the solution with a thick metal rod. You can also use a wooden stick for these purposes, for example, a shovel handle.
• Then the solution is poured another 20 centimeters and also compacted.
• When the level is above average, the wooden spacers need to be pulled out.
• Then the solution is poured to the top and compacted. Add concrete if necessary.
• After that, the upper part must be carefully leveled. Since the end of the ring will be mating, it is desirable that it be flawless.
• If the pouring was carried out in hot weather, the mold should be covered with a damp burlap and moistened periodically.
• At optimum humidity and air temperature, the formwork can be disassembled after 3-4 days according to the scheme described above. At the same time, the ring cannot be moved, and even less rolled, since the concrete has not yet gained sufficient strength to withstand even minimal loads.
• Over the next 7 days, the concrete must also be periodically moistened.
• After 10 days, the product can be moved. It is advisable to operate the ring after a full set of strength, which occurs no earlier than 28 days.

Advice! When arranging wells, it may be necessary to machine the rings, in which case a diamond tool is used. For example, for piping, diamond drilling of holes in concrete is performed. If it is necessary to install the structure flush with the ground, the reinforced concrete is cut with diamond wheels.